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Topic # 113916 1-Feb-2013 10:53 Send private message

Hi I am looking at a $10 set of three macro extension tube for a canon 600D. I am not going to spend the $150 for the proper ones so some advise on the cheapies would be great

My lenses are: Sigma 18-250mm: soft pictures, min focusing distance around 15cm (yes 15!!!) at 250mm
Canon 50mm 1.8, min focusing distance 45cm

Questions

1) will the macro make the sigma so close you can't get a proper picture/distortion etc?

2) no point doing it to the canon? will it get anywhere near the sigma in terms of max macro since the sigma is 5x the magnification already and 3x the "near-ness" even with no tube

3) I can't control aperture: can you set to aperture priority, set aperture, dismount lens, attach extension tube and "set" you aperture this way?

4) any other thoughts ...

thanks




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  Reply # 754311 1-Feb-2013 11:00 Send private message

It'll turn any lens into a pseudo macro lens. You can't focus on distance objects with it on. With the basic tubes you have no auto focus, which isn't really a problem as you need to manually focus at macro distances anyway. I use medium and large tubes on my 24-70 F2.8, usually at around F16 to try to get some DOF.

Aperture priority should work fine, manual if need be. Easiest way to set in manual is take a shot in Av then transfer to manual and tweak.

A proper macro lens is better, but tubes do the job if you use them infrequently.




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  Reply # 754315 1-Feb-2013 11:05 Send private message

will a 60mm tube turn a 50mm 45cm lens to a decent macro lens?





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  Reply # 754317 1-Feb-2013 11:10 Send private message

A 60mm tube is massive, too long for practical use unless you're trying to capture dust 5mm from the end of your lens. For wedding rings I use 20 and 32mm tubes.




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  Reply # 754319 1-Feb-2013 11:18 Send private message

sweet ...

anyone knows any tricks to set aperture?




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  Reply # 754320 1-Feb-2013 11:20 Send private message

I don't really understand your question. You choose your aperture to get the depth of field you want. You choose your iso to make sure you have enough shutter speed for your subject, and high enough that hand held you won't get camera motion blur.

Do you understand the relationship between aperture, shutter, and iso? Or do you just want to know what mode to use? If in doubt, use P.




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  Reply # 754323 1-Feb-2013 11:24 Send private message

joker97: Any other thoughts?


Try reading this?
http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=122&topicid=107690

I went through the same thoughts/learning curve a while back Wink



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  Reply # 754341 1-Feb-2013 11:51 Send private message

The $10 tube extension has no electrical connections so i cannot adjust the aperture while connected to the macro tube




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  Reply # 754343 1-Feb-2013 11:53 Send private message

Silly question, but does your lens not have a manual aperture ring control?

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  Reply # 754345 1-Feb-2013 11:58 Send private message

Most new lenses don't have manual aperture controls. You have to get tubes with electrical connections if you don't want to shoot wide open, and trust me, you don't. Kenko are a good brand.




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  Reply # 754349 1-Feb-2013 12:05 Send private message

Jaxson:
joker97: Any other thoughts?


Try reading this?
http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=122&topicid=107690

I went through the same thoughts/learning curve a while back Wink


Wow that link was gold ...

So the only option for aperture is a depth of field preview button ... Hmmm ... Let me see ...




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  Reply # 754371 1-Feb-2013 12:43 Send private message

Yeah sorry, I use an older prime lens which does have manual aperture control on it.
That makes it nice to use with the very budget macro tubes which lack any electrical contacts.

I think what Timmmay is alluding to above is the crazy narrow depth of field these tubes create. You'd want to be shooting at higher F numbers to ensure you have enough of the shot in focus, or use that photoshop focus stacking approach etc. Presumably you'd need lots of lighting to make that work at high F values too.

eg's:

Eye in focus but already out of the depth of field by the ends of the eye lashes.




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  Reply # 754375 1-Feb-2013 12:48 Send private message

Yeah I often use either a tripod and long shutter speeds or I use off camera radio triggered lighting, a diffused speedlite is good anywhere between 1/8 and 1/1 power depending on what I'm doing.




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  Reply # 754853 2-Feb-2013 19:58 Send private message

joker97:
Jaxson:
joker97: Any other thoughts?


Try reading this?
http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=122&topicid=107690

I went through the same thoughts/learning curve a while back Wink


Wow that link was gold ...

So the only option for aperture is a depth of field preview button ... Hmmm ... Let me see ...


Yep, the only option if you don't have a connection between the tubes/camera is the DOF preview button.
One thing to note is the lens is always set at it's largest aperture when taking a photo. It allows the most light in and helps with autofocus. The blades in the lens only close to the correct aperture when actually taking the photo. The DOF preview button closes the blades and lets you see what actual DOF you should see, and what level of light would be let in. 

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