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232 posts

Master Geek


Topic # 101810 9-May-2012 14:24 Send private message

Hi,

We are renovating our kitchen at the moment and the designer has recommended mounting the powerpoints horizontally instead of vertically.  Are there flush boxes specifically for horizontal mounting or do you just screw what would be the bottom of the box on a vertical mount into the stud?

Thanks
 

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  Reply # 622251 9-May-2012 14:27 Send private message

There is only one type of flush box, and you rotate it horizontal if required. Your outlet plate then attaches to the flush box as per usual. There's really nothing more to it than that.



232 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 622253 9-May-2012 14:32 Send private message

Cool, I thought that would be the case, but just wanted to check.   Also it is legal to change light switches and powerpoints yourself aye?  Any additional outlets I'll have a sparkie do.

Edit:  Actually just found the anwser to my own question (which is yes)  http://www.energysafety.govt.nz/templates/Page____17682.aspx


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  Reply # 622257 9-May-2012 14:38 Send private message

Basically (as in read up yourself....) you can change fittings on existing wiring, but you can't lay, or re route?, cable to new locations. You need that type of work done professionally and it to be formally signed off.

What ever you do, be careful and know how to isolate power to that location AND how to confirm you have done this correctly. Be careful. Can't really say that enough.

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 622260 9-May-2012 14:45 Send private message

You do need to get horizontal switches/faceplates.  It is illegal to mount a vertial switch horizontally and vica versa.

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  Reply # 622384 9-May-2012 17:40 Send private message

We have no regret going horizontal, I like the look and power adapters fit (mostly).

Go horizontal for light switches as well.  That way on a multi switch plate you know which switch is for which lights.

With PDL I'm 99% sure you can unclip the switches/sockets from the plates and rotate them.  If you buy new obviously it is better to just buy the right ones.  http://www.electricaldirectltd.co.nz/ is not bad on pricing (for consumers), but check slow moving items like towel rail timers.




You can never have enough Volvos!




232 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 622497 9-May-2012 20:28 Send private message

Thanks for that,  I wasn't sure what to do about the light switchs.  Long term I want the lighting to be automated with C-Bus or something similar. 

I've used electrical direct for all my lan stuff so I'll use them again.  

Cheers

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  Reply # 622514 9-May-2012 20:46 Send private message

wallop: You do need to get horizontal switches/faceplates.  It is illegal to mount a vertial switch horizontally and vica versa.


Any modern light switch is universal. You pop out the module and rotate it. Just power points are either vertical or horizontal. And yea definately do it yourself. Just go and flick the breaker or pull the fuse first lol.

156 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 623116 10-May-2012 18:51 Send private message

Make sure when you're re-terminating the connections that they are screwed in nice and firmly. Pull on the wires after you have screwed them down and make sure they don't move, then give the terminal one more tweak, just to make sure.

Loose terminations can = vibrations, which = heat, which = fire.

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  Reply # 623170 10-May-2012 19:59 Send private message

The correct test is to connect a load and check the voltage drop. This will identify poor connections. Not sure if electricians actually do it, but this is what the code says.

Over-tightening is also bad.

Regarding cables in the ceiling, does anyone know what's up with cables that are loose in ceilings? Last time I read the code (long ago) cables were supposed to be restrained every 40cm or something like that but our newly built home has nothing anywhere. I thought you are not allowed to reroute cables but with no restraint...




You can never have enough Volvos!


156 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 623256 10-May-2012 22:29 Send private message

I was interested in what joe blogs could do in his own house (legally) and I found this:

http://www.energysafety.govt.nz/upload/33458/ecp51v18.pdf

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 623263 10-May-2012 22:37 Send private message

Just FYI you should check your insurance situation with regards to electrical work. If the electrical work causes a fire you are extremely unlikely to be insured.

99.9% of the time it's not a problem if you do the work properly but you should be aware of the consequences of doing electrical work. Legal does not mean insurable.

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Master Geek
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  Reply # 623266 10-May-2012 22:43 Send private message

"The only protection for the cables will be
along the joists, to which the cable must be clipped."

"3.5.1 If you are placing a cable in an accessible ceiling-space or under floor-space (e.g. where you gain access through a trapdoor), and the cable is within 2.0 m of the access, you must
provide fixing for the cable at least every 300 mm."


From the document linked above.

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  Reply # 623335 11-May-2012 05:58 Send private message

Pock: "The only protection for the cables will be
along the joists, to which the cable must be clipped."

"3.5.1 If you are placing a cable in an accessible ceiling-space or under floor-space (e.g. where you gain access through a trapdoor), and the cable is within 2.0 m of the access, you must
provide fixing for the cable at least every 300 mm."


From the document linked above.


Thanks,  We have not made final payment yet so I'll add it to the to-do list for the electrician.  One of many things that were not done right.




You can never have enough Volvos!


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Ultimate Geek
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Technical Solutions Aust
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  Reply # 623424 11-May-2012 10:27 Send private message

Niel: The correct test is to connect a load and check the voltage drop. This will identify poor connections. Not sure if electricians actually do it, but this is what the code says.

Over-tightening is also bad.

Regarding cables in the ceiling, does anyone know what's up with cables that are loose in ceilings? Last time I read the code (long ago) cables were supposed to be restrained every 40cm or something like that but our newly built home has nothing anywhere. I thought you are not allowed to reroute cables but with no restraint...


The correct test is an earth loop impedance test. If you have faulty connections it will show up with a high earth loop impedance.

This test is outlined in AS/NZS 3000:2007 and is mandatory under certain conditions (outlined in this standard)

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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 623512 11-May-2012 12:58 Send private message

Niel:
Pock: "The only protection for the cables will be
along the joists, to which the cable must be clipped."

"3.5.1 If you are placing a cable in an accessible ceiling-space or under floor-space (e.g. where you gain access through a trapdoor), and the cable is within 2.0 m of the access, you must
provide fixing for the cable at least every 300 mm."


From the document linked above.


Thanks,  We have not made final payment yet so I'll add it to the to-do list for the electrician.  One of many things that were not done right.


Check all the TV and phone wiring also - neither should be run parallel with power cables or run over top of the framing (it will get crushed when stood on - which will happen as tradesmen are walking around the roof cavity.

Make sure they haven't run the phone cabling in a 'daisy-chain' (out of one outlet into the next etc) - each outlet should be run to a central distribution point.

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