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Topic # 138475 6-Jan-2014 13:39 Send private message

Is there any significant advantage going for Maxx over Endura for a standard residential house, not near the sea? I'll ask my roofing guy too of course, but looking for thoughts.




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  Reply # 961927 6-Jan-2014 14:46 Send private message

It looks like the difference is in the mass of the zincalume coating on the steel.
150g/m2 for Maxx vrs 200g/m2 for Endura.

Depending on price difference probably not worth it, but let me know. I need to re-roof too.

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  Reply # 962062 6-Jan-2014 18:58 Send private message

You'll get another 5-10 years of life out of the heavier gauge roof with normal maintenance.

It is also less likely to dent with traffic and impacts and should warp less with heat.

If you intend to live there forever it is worthwhile. Otherwise you will not see the return on the extra capital.



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  Reply # 962128 6-Jan-2014 21:00 Send private message

Thanks Gazbo. Any idea how much extra it should cost? My quote right now is around $12K from memory, no idea how much is product and how much is labour.




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  Reply # 962133 6-Jan-2014 21:05 Send private message

Doesn't one come in more colours?



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  Reply # 962137 6-Jan-2014 21:11 Send private message

Endura (the standard gauge) comes in a wider range of colors. The color we want comes in both (a medium gray, safe choice).




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  Reply # 962842 7-Jan-2014 23:12 Send private message

The steel is the same thickness 0.4mm. In my professional opinion the max is not worth the extra cost and will not generally outlast endura by any substantial amount of time. If you are planing on living in the house or having the house for a long term investment (25+ years) you would be better off going for the thicker 0.55mm steel in the normal endura.



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  Reply # 962951 8-Jan-2014 08:05 Send private message

Thanks Rick, that's pretty much what my roofing guy said too. He didn't mention you can get thicker steel on the endura though. Any idea how much more that would cost? Rooves tend to rust, would it last longer given if it's rusty the coating's already worn or come off?




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  Reply # 963009 8-Jan-2014 09:19 Send private message

I replaced my roof 4 years ago with the 0.55mm Endura in Wellington. Was told at the time that it wasn't going to cost any more to go for thicker gauge but that might have changed now.

Have found that the thicker gauge feels bit more quieter when it rains heavily - not sure if this is scientific or just a feeling.

Make sure you shop around and get a few quotes as I found cheapest was half the price of the most expensive!!!!




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  Reply # 963069 8-Jan-2014 10:05 Send private message

Who did you end up using MM? My quote is around $12,500 for a 3 bedroom house, not including office/shed.




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  Reply # 963082 8-Jan-2014 10:13 Send private message

Hi it adds roughly 10-15 percent to the cost of material's

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  Reply # 963154 8-Jan-2014 11:40 Send private message

I ended up using QRS and the costs were around $11k for 3 bedroom 110sqm house. For that I got skylight and an internal gutter re-trafficguarded too.

Pricing was weird cos I had folks tell me that they needed scaffolding and one guy even said our prices are higher cos our roofers have had the proper OSH training therefore more costly lol. I told him I didn't care if they were trained as its his responsibility! We didn't need the scaffolding at all .

Qrs were not the cheapest but we came to an arrangement where he price matched. We have had them come back couple of times due to extreme winds loosening a gutter and they fixed it for free.

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  Reply # 963512 8-Jan-2014 20:25 2 people support this post Send private message

With how the department of labour has been cracking down in the last 3 years, we have gone from only using edge protection on 25 degree plus roofs to it now being compulsory on all roofs regardless of if it's needed or not. all new builds must have safety nets installed this adds a minimum of $1200 to each roof. If these two requirements are not meet my boys will not start work as they can personally be fined if caught.

I need to do my roof and I'm going to go for 0.55 gage endura because I know that I will get close to 50 years out of it if cared for correctly. Also if you can afford it I highly recommend Cover tech 407 or equivalent paper instead of the bitumen based paper as it will not deteriorate and will last as long as the roof and will lead to a lot less leaks in the years ahead.

The main things to look for is there are no scratches on the sheets after they have been installed as they will rust out quickly, even if touch up (paint) is used. Not to mention touch up will discolour a lot more quickly than the iron. Even little dents will eventually become holes/splits. Imagine bending metal back and forth until it breaks this is what happens in the sun when the sheets expand and contract and a dent is the weakest point so will bend. Scratched or dented sheets really need to be replaced. Make sure the sheets are cut with gilbows or reds or greens and not a grinder. And check that the washers on the screws are roughly 2/3 compressed and none split and coming out the side of the screw head. And a absolute must is the roof and gutter MUST be blown off every day to ensure no swarf is left on the iron and better yet hose the roof off after the roofers have left each day. Insure the top of the sheets awe "turned up" which is the low/pan of the sheet being folded up at a 90 degree angle to the sheet to insure that water that will get under the hips/ridges in wind/rain cannot get over and therefor under the sheets.



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  Reply # 963543 8-Jan-2014 21:09 Send private message

My roofer said because my roof slopes so much no need for the thicker gauge.

How much would cover tech 407 add to what's quoted as "heavy duty paper"?

Do I need to have put in the contract that any scratched or dented sheets of iron must be replaced?

Not sure I could check every screw, that's why you hire someone decent, so you don't have to.

What is swarf? Why do you have to blow it off each day?

Thanks for all the info Rick :)




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  Reply # 963581 8-Jan-2014 21:52 Send private message

timmmay: My roofer said because my roof slopes so much no need for the thicker gauge.

How much would cover tech 407 add to what's quoted as "heavy duty paper"?

Do I need to have put in the contract that any scratched or dented sheets of iron must be replaced?

Not sure I could check every screw, that's why you hire someone decent, so you don't have to.

What is swarf? Why do you have to blow it off each day?

Thanks for all the info Rick :)


The 407 will add roughly $500-1000 to the price but it is most definitely worth it. The heavy duty paper is just roofer speak for self supporting paper properly 215 which means it doesn't need netting to stop the paper sagging between the purlins but will deteriorate with the condensation that comes off the back of the sheets.

Yes just have a read over the contract and check about replacing dented scratched sheets, it's properly all ready in there. it's standard in our contract.

You should be able to see most of the screws from the ground pretty easily assuming you can see the roof that is. They will look like ovals instead of circles if there are any washers popping out the side. And they should look the same height coming out of the sheets. Even the decent guys can miss the odd washer split/popping on screws, my guys included :)

Swarf is the metal filings that are made when a screw drives through the iron. And will still happen even if the sheets are per drilled. The swarf doesn't have the paint to protect it and the relative surface area of the swarf means that it will all just about rust away to nothing within a couple of days. It will cause damage to the paint on the sheets and create surface rust. This will void any warranty from nz steal.

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  Reply # 963582 8-Jan-2014 21:56 Send private message

Also make sure that if you have any lead or copper pipes coming through the existing roof that they are replaced before the new roof is laid as these will cause white rust to the steel.

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