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  Reply # 1331679 25-Jun-2015 19:43 Send private message

Disrespective:
DarthKermit: It might also be a good idea to have a floor drain in your HW cupboard.
From memory you have to have a HWC in a tray anyway. 


I wonder is that just for new buildings? I've been working at a place being renovated recently. It's had a new mains pressure cylinder installed, but no drip tray underneath it.




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  Reply # 1331745 25-Jun-2015 21:07 Send private message

what is the build cost per sq m for this spec?



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  Reply # 1331758 25-Jun-2015 21:40 Send private message

The cinema room will house a projector and 135" screen with a riser for 2nd row of seats. There are no windows in this room for best soundproofing and due to this I cannot also cut the room through its GIb even a little bit and place the AV rack inside this room. I could build a small room in the corner within the cinema room to house all this stuff but the runs from the server rack in the plan is very close to the cinema room. Will run a HDMI and network cable from below the screen in cinema room to projector and also 2 x HDMI cords and network cable from server rack to the projector which should be less than 15M (10M more than likely)

What I need is a HVAC solution for cinema room because council will not pass the plan unless there is some sort of ventilation in that room. I would like to have a HRV system from Smartvent, Lunos, CleanAir or Mitsubishi Lossnay with their ducted heatpump solution. I like splits in each room because they are more energy efficient and they can be installed even though it is a mono pitched roof design. I have been told that it is impossible to have a ducted heatpump solution in flat roof and mono pitched house due to no space for crawling.

I visited Mastercraft kitchen showroom today that Jennian uses and had a look at few samples. Saw the engineered stone and granite. Either will do. I do like franke sinks so will go for that in the pantry/scullery but a granite sink in the kitchen.




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  Reply # 1331772 25-Jun-2015 22:02 Send private message

I am not a fan of mastercraft . i have two friends who built and used them and the kitchens are pretty poor quality compared to the astronomical prices charged. one had a 40,000 kitchen that looked worse than a miter 10 display unit.



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  Reply # 1331782 25-Jun-2015 22:07 Send private message

Thanks for the heads up. This is the Hamilton branch. I need to find a good cabinet maker I think in Hamilton. Though the showhome has a good kitchen fit and finish.




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  Reply # 1331783 25-Jun-2015 22:13 Send private message

With some metal roofing profiles, you can go down to a 3 degree pitch. Check the Metalcraft website as they have some profiles that go down this far. Espan and Metcom 7 are two examples.
I initial impression of the exterior look of the house, is that you should really employ the services of an architect.  You don't want to invest all that money and end up with a eyesore. But what you have got looks to be quite a conservative looking basic envelope. Using contrasting exterior cladding may help though, such as cedar weather boards, contrasting with white plastered walls.  You are talking about a million dollar plus a lot more build with that floor area. The staircase alone is 10k. I have recently been through the pricing of a similar sized house for a family member, and they ended up downsizing their expectations after the QS's estimate came in.

Also noticed that you don't appear to have covered heating. Have you thought of underfloor heating as that is a big floor area to heat?Otherwise you are going to need a ducted heatpump, or many small heat pumps dotted around (look ugly from the outside) Why are you using Rib Raft? If for insulation, IMO you are better to use something which doesn't have big thermal breaks in it, and also insulate the edges of the slab, as that is where you get a lot of heat loss.

Insulation, yes the more the better. I would look at Bradford gold.



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  Reply # 1331789 25-Jun-2015 22:32 Send private message

The paint job for outside in the plans is not final. It was a request I made with White colour paint. The roof design looks very similar to the Metcom 7 profile. The build cost estimate that has come back to me is no where near a million dollars. Not even close. It is $30k over my budget but that is where I will be supplying a whole lot of stuff myself and have them install it saving quite a bit of $$$. I am not sold on architects. I know of people that spent $30k on architects, house design looks average and what the architects proposed was way over client's budget when the estimates came back.

Stairs are $15k from here. Delivered and installed nationwide. Not a fan of underfloor heating. Someone's underfloor heating died/had issues after 4 years. Paid a lot of money for repair. Going with Rib Raft due to to future EQ proofing, quick install and some insulation as well.




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  Reply # 1331805 25-Jun-2015 23:01 Send private message

billgates: The paint job for outside in the plans is not final. It was a request I made with White colour paint. The roof design looks very similar to the Metcom 7 profile. The build cost estimate that has come back to me is no where near a million dollars. Not even close. It is $30k over my budget but that is where I will be supplying a whole lot of stuff myself and have them install it saving quite a bit of $$$. I am not sold on architects. I know of people that spent $30k on architects, house design looks average and what the architects proposed was way over client's budget when the estimates came back.

Stairs are $15k from elivered and installed nationwide. Not a fan of underfloor heating. Someone's underfloor heating died/had issues after 4 years. Paid a lot of money for repair. Going with Rib Raft due to to future EQ proofing, quick install and some insulation as well.


Underfloor heating with hot water tubes,  shouldn't fail. The tubing is done when the slab is ipoured  The tubing is quite cheap.   Then you choose your heatsource, such as a hot water heatpump. You can just have the tubing done, to future proof it, and in the future then get it all setup. I know that the old types of underfloor heating with the coil used to fail, but I believe they are more expensive to run.
You may want to read these articles about R values ofunderslab insualtion and benefits http://www.designnavigator.co.nz/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=25613 and http://www.designnavigator.co.nz/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=49

There was a company recently on trademe doing open tread staircases with your centre steel runner for about 10k with glass ballustrades. Although I can't find them on it anymore.  There doesn't seem to be too much competition in this area, but some steel fabricators will build the frame for you and a joiner can build the treads and install under tread lighting, which can save a bit. When I had a quote for stairs about 3 years ago, with glass balustrade it was 10k, but maybe prices have got up a lot since then.

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  Reply # 1331878 26-Jun-2015 09:12 One person supports this post Send private message

billgates:The build cost estimate that has come back to me is no where near a million dollars. Not even close.
I don't want to be 'that guy' but I also don't like seeing people have the wool pulled over their eyes... 

Something with the build quality you have been talking about would be in the region of $2000 per square meter, but realistically, due to double gib and extensive insulation it could be closer to $2500-$2750 I would guess. And at 415m2 you're in the region of $830k - just over $1M. Sure you might save a bit with client supplied items but your material costs will be high by the sounds of it. 

Have you already had a full schedule of quantities breakdown from a QS? If not it looks like you have enough to do one. We use a guy down this way to do ours and would be less than a grand. PM me if you would like to know his details. 

If you didn't realise, I am an architect in Wellington. 







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  Reply # 1331944 26-Jun-2015 10:24 Send private message

I have had 2 estimates which were calculated (not by a QS as that will cost) by GJ and Jennian with similar pricing. They do these estimates all the time and are close to real figures. This was not a 1 hour or 1 day estimate. Both took nearly 1.5 weeks to come back with the figures. This included everything I have linked on 1st post excluding Rylock stuff. They included same thermal break, argon gas, low-e glass product just made by APL. The cost to build something like this close to a million $ is over estimated. I dropped builders and potential architects that i was interested in  straight away (architects for also wanting % of the build cost, which is why it might look a million dollar build cost to some ;) ) when they kept insisting on a per square meter cost. The fact is that a toilet does not costs $2000 sqm and neither does a bedroom, nor a garage as big as what I have. A bathroom and kitchen costs a hell of a lot more than $2000sqm. If I am going to get an average sqm cost from an true estimate then sure but to me the total build cost of what I want is matters in the end. And the build cost estimate, that I have received from 2 builders is very close with the material that I want them to use including fittings etc. I also don't work on provisional sums either. Fixed costs by selecting what I want before I sign the contract. Once I give the go ahead, it will go to a draughts person, engineer and Carter for accurate 100% costing. It's certainly not going to jack up the estimate cost by $270K unless some huge soil or engineering requirement issues which there are none luckily with my section and design of the plan. This should give you the build cost estimate I have received. This also includes the stairs too btw :-)




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  Reply # 1331959 26-Jun-2015 11:04 Send private message

Sounds like you have it covered. A lot of people go into this process without understanding some of the finer pricing details. You'll be impressed by the final quality of the build I am sure. 



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  Reply # 1331962 26-Jun-2015 11:06 Send private message

Thanks. btw, I have a separate budget for aggregated concrete (driveway and 2 alfresco's), HVAC, Solar and Landscaping.

Still looking for a good HVAC solution for cinema and entire house with a good HRV system.




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  Reply # 1331977 26-Jun-2015 11:27 Send private message

HVAC in the Cinema is going to be your potential sound insulation leak. You will need air intakes and outtakes. Is there sufficient ceiling space between the roof of the cinema and the floor upstairs?

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  Reply # 1332002 26-Jun-2015 12:05 Send private message

Is the cook(s) happy to be hidden away in the kitchen with no view line or connection to the rest of the house? Its seems like to the dining room, and from the garage when carrying in the shopping? 




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  Reply # 1332005 26-Jun-2015 12:17 Send private message

I am getting the builder to build a sofitt around the perimeter inside the cinema room which will house the LED lights. My plan is also to place the ducting inside this with MLV vinyl around the ducting pipe to suppress sound. What would be a good room to ventilate out and in of? Garage?

I need to find out from builder what is the space between the joists on ground floor and first floor




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