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  Reply # 871458 3-Aug-2013 23:36 Send private message

Skolink: While we are on the topic of LED bulbs sold at supermarkets - I noticed at New World that they have Philips GU10 (halogen replacement) 'MyLED' bulbs. Philips appear to have stuffed up their packaging - ratings marked are:

5W, 50W equivalent, 270 lumen.
6.5W, 35W equivalent, 380 lumen.

Unfortunately philips.co.nz doesn't have any contact details for lighting (no does it list the above bulbs). I intend to point out to Philips that a 50W halogen is typically 750 lumen.


Philips website on LED bulbs is poor. They are missing much of the information that is on the side of the light bulb box. Also their list of who stocks them are wrong or out of date. There LED bulbs are quite good, and seem to be cheaper than some of the chinese brands, but I have found the colour is a bit off with the warm white ones, and the do get quite hot. 

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  Reply # 871477 4-Aug-2013 06:45 Send private message

Gilco2: Our local Countdown now has full range of LED light bulbs.  They had limited range 5w Philips bulbs but now have full range Panasonic.  Just bought a 75watt equivalent for $18.  Was concerned you might get shadows from the leds inside the bulb.  But got home tried it and absolutely no difference from standard light bulb.  Very pleased with light output of it.


Which countdown was this? That pricing seems much better than the Philips bulbs. I am really impressed with the light quality on the Philips but they are too pricey at $29 for 10W bulbs

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  Reply # 871623 4-Aug-2013 17:11 Send private message

Today I saw Countdown Pakuranga has some stock of 8W Philip bayonet in warm white, if anyone was desperate for bayonet. Think there was also some ES bayonet, but not sure.

I loved Viribright when they came out, but later their colour temperature got screwed up. I'm also getting some failures after a year (payback through power saving for my usage is 6 months, so okay).




You can never have enough Volvos!


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  Reply # 871631 4-Aug-2013 17:34 Send private message

Seems there was a bad batch of viribrights, as 3 that I got on one trip with mum to bunnings for one room have all died, the original one with the dimmer orange colour was on the same switch as the 3 new ones and is still going fine. The rest in the room on other switches were bought later and used less and are all still going fine.

They are the only ones in that price range that are dimmable, and dont flicker when doing it, others either dont dim or flicker even more than normal when dimmed.

Even with the viribrights the dimming is still a total POS operation compared to incandesents so there is a long way to go on that front before I will be replacing the rest of my MR16's with LED's




Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 871634 4-Aug-2013 17:41 Send private message

richms: Seems there was a bad batch of viribrights, as 3 that I got on one trip with mum to bunnings for one room have all died, the original one with the dimmer orange colour was on the same switch as the 3 new ones and is still going fine. The rest in the room on other switches were bought later and used less and are all still going fine.

They are the only ones in that price range that are dimmable, and dont flicker when doing it, others either dont dim or flicker even more than normal when dimmed.

Even with the viribrights the dimming is still a total POS operation compared to incandesents so there is a long way to go on that front before I will be replacing the rest of my MR16's with LED's


This is why I would prefer to buy branded ones like philips. If I was you I would return those ones that died, as LEDs are designed to last many years without replacement, and they are very expensive. I got some philips ones from bunnings myself, and they are good, but not yet perfect.  Hopefully they work out a way of reducing the size of the driver part, so the bulb part is larger, as I don't get much refection from the downlighter enclosures.
Dimmable ones aren't an issue for me, as in the future this will be controled via wifi, so each light or group is controllable. Dimmers on light switches are an old technology, designed for incandescent bulbs.

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  Reply # 871635 4-Aug-2013 17:43 Send private message

Niel: Today I saw Countdown Pakuranga has some stock of 8W Philip bayonet in warm white, if anyone was desperate for bayonet. Think there was also some ES bayonet, but not sure.

I loved Viribright when they came out, but later their colour temperature got screwed up. I'm also getting some failures after a year (payback through power saving for my usage is 6 months, so okay).


They are however only 40w equivelent, and th 10w (60 watt) ones would be better. However I think the 10w ones in warm white are as rare as hens teeth. I am wondering who actually buys the cool white bulbs, as the colour of light they produce is horrible, and makes the room feel sterile and cold.

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  Reply # 871636 4-Aug-2013 17:47 Send private message

Yeah. She will be taking them back. feb this year isnt even 25000 hours if they were left on non stop, not even at 5% of that given the hours a day they are on and its not been an LED failure, its the electronics just dieing one day.

Friend who had no end of problems with the GU10 based MR16's from bunnings just took the whole lot back after about the 8th failure and demanded his money back. Had to get the GU10s as the 12v ones from viribright are not dimmable.

Whatever you do dont even bother going into the shinewe store to look at their LEDs, they all have 100Hz flicker visible without even dimming them.

I agree that a phase angle on the AC input isnt a good way foward for dimming, but wifi or other meshing between the lamps is IMO an even worse direction to go for a majority of people.

Unfortunately you have to look at how hard it was for people to understand the difference between leading or lagging dimming and electronic transformers to know that any other ways of dimming is going to just cause even more confusion, and it shouldnt be impossible for them to get good stable dimming and fade up working on phase angle dimmers, so I think that is what will have to be done.




Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 871637 4-Aug-2013 17:48 Send private message


They are however only 40w equivelent, and th 10w (60 watt) ones would be better. However I think the 10w ones in warm white are as rare as hens teeth. I am wondering who actually buys the cool white bulbs, as the colour of light they produce is horrible, and makes the room feel sterile and cold.


I much prefer cool white lighting to dirty orange. You make feeling sterile and cold sound like a bad thing. Do you feel that way when you have the curtains open and daylight is coming in?




Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 871662 4-Aug-2013 18:43 Send private message

richms:

They are however only 40w equivelent, and th 10w (60 watt) ones would be better. However I think the 10w ones in warm white are as rare as hens teeth. I am wondering who actually buys the cool white bulbs, as the colour of light they produce is horrible, and makes the room feel sterile and cold.


I much prefer cool white lighting to dirty orange. You make feeling sterile and cold sound like a bad thing. Do you feel that way when you have the curtains open and daylight is coming in?


It may depend on the quality of the light brand. I have never tried LED cool white ones, but the CFL cool white ones have really poor colour, and the brightness just seems really dull, and the colours in the room just seem colourless.
The philips LED warm white ones I have found are more cool white than the philips CFL equivalents. I personally find conventional halogen lights 50w low voltage  ones produce the best light colour, not too yellow, and not sterile.

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  Reply # 871663 4-Aug-2013 18:52 Send private message

Today purchased an 8watt (warm white) bulb from The Warehouse. Have swapped it out with a Varibright in a room that has 2 bulbs. Longer and slimmer than the Varibright and a little warmer (colour wise) too.

On another note Consumer has updated their LED / CFL review. This time they have data about light output against ON time. In summary theyre still recommending CFL's.

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  Reply # 871664 4-Aug-2013 19:01 Send private message

I cannot think of a single valid reason to go for CFLs unless you need the brightness of a 23+ watt one. What is consumers justification? I cant read online since I would never pay for that backwards magazine.




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  Reply # 871667 4-Aug-2013 19:11 Send private message

Think it was lifetime cost.
I don't subscribe either but saw the issue whilst out today.

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  Reply # 871669 4-Aug-2013 19:17 Send private message

Well the cheapest dimmable CFL is $20 and is crap and goes purple when dimmed, and has a very high minimum turn on brightness, LED doesnt have those issues. That alone is enough to swing it for me. Even at $40 for an LED vs the $8 of a half decent non dimmable CFL, it would still go towards LED for the instant brightness aspect vs the slow warmup of a CFL.

This is the magazine that did give a great review to an absolutely atrocious cordless phone in the past, so I don't really believe much about what they say.




Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 871779 5-Aug-2013 00:14 Send private message

oxnsox: Today purchased an 8watt (warm white) bulb from The Warehouse. Have swapped it out with a Varibright in a room that has 2 bulbs. Longer and slimmer than the Varibright and a little warmer (colour wise) too.

On another note Consumer has updated their LED / CFL review. This time they have data about light output against ON time. In summary theyre still recommending CFL's.


I have had a look at consumers website on the updated CFl review, as know someone with an online account, and they don't appear to list LED bulbs on the updated list (as of 24th May 2013), only CFLs. The latest LED article appears to be from 2011. I don't know why they haven't done any LEDs, such as the new philips ones..

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  Reply # 871861 5-Aug-2013 10:16 Send private message

There is one from July 2012 but still woefully out of date, cannot see any newer updates, agree cannot see any reason to still recommend CFL other then light outputs that LED is just not producing yet in the form factors used.







Media centre PC - Case Silverstone LC16M with 2 X 80mm AcoustiFan DustPROOF, MOBO Gigabyte MA785GT-UD3H, CPU AMD X2 240 under volted, RAM 4 Gig DDR3 1033, HDD 120Gig System/512Gig data, Tuners 2 X Hauppauge HVR-3000, 1 X HVR-2200, Video Palit GT 220, Sound Realtek 886A HD (onboard), Optical LiteOn DH-401S Blue-ray using TotalMedia Theatre Power Corsair VX Series, 450W ATX PSU OS Windows 7 x64

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