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  Reply # 1011913 24-Mar-2014 16:31 Send private message

coolcat21: 

If you see the fuel tank, there will be little rust spots on them.  The last picture, just above the orange cable thingy, you can see rust spots covered with black paint ?


That orange thing looks like a fuel line, but I'm interested in that pic. Can you link to another site with the full res pic for me? (I'm a spray painter). I'd like to have a closer look at that rusty bit.  Looks to be some surface rust.

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  Reply # 1011925 24-Mar-2014 16:37 Send private message

ajobbins:
coolcat21: The fuel consumption I'm getting is 14 KM/L as reported by the MFD on the dashboard. (probably 13.7 in actuality). 


OT: Wow. I need a more efficient car. My V6 Commodore uses nearly twice that


Check my signature picture for how a motorcycle compares :-)






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  Reply # 1011933 24-Mar-2014 16:43 Send private message

blakamin:
coolcat21: 

If you see the fuel tank, there will be little rust spots on them.  The last picture, just above the orange cable thingy, you can see rust spots covered with black paint ?


That orange thing looks like a fuel line, but I'm interested in that pic. Can you link to another site with the full res pic for me? (I'm a spray painter). I'd like to have a closer look at that rusty bit.  Looks to be some surface rust.



Here it is:  http://www.fileswap.com/dl/e2bGF3rUdJ/


M
r. spray painter , do you think this one will last 5-6 years ?  Just as a final confirmation.


The AA guy said someone (most likely the sh**y dealer i got it from) spray painted it to cover up the rust. But then if the rust is spreading fast and/or eating up the structural part, it should've been picked up at both Border inspection in Japan + Compliance at NZTA in NZ....right.

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  Reply # 1011934 24-Mar-2014 16:43 Send private message

That has seen a lot of salt!!
I would suggest selling it and getting a new one. It not worth doing much to it unless you got it for a steal.




 


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  Reply # 1011943 24-Mar-2014 16:55 Send private message

coolcat21:
blakamin:
coolcat21: 

If you see the fuel tank, there will be little rust spots on them.  The last picture, just above the orange cable thingy, you can see rust spots covered with black paint ?


That orange thing looks like a fuel line, but I'm interested in that pic. Can you link to another site with the full res pic for me? (I'm a spray painter). I'd like to have a closer look at that rusty bit.  Looks to be some surface rust.



Here it is:  http://www.fileswap.com/dl/e2bGF3rUdJ/


M
r. spray painter , do you think this one will last 5-6 years ?  Just as a final confirmation.


The AA guy said someone (most likely the sh**y dealer i got it from) spray painted it to cover up the rust. But then if the rust is spreading fast and/or eating up the structural part, it should've been picked up at both Border inspection in Japan + Compliance at NZTA in NZ....right.


That zip doesn't have the last pic in.. that's the only one I really need to see.. everything else is just exhaust and that's no big deal.

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  Reply # 1011945 24-Mar-2014 16:56 One person supports this post Send private message

TimA: That has seen a lot of salt!!
I would suggest selling it and getting a new one. It not worth doing much to it unless you got it for a steal.


98% of the rust you're seeing is the exhaust, so not a big deal at all.



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  Reply # 1011955 24-Mar-2014 17:03 Send private message

blakamin:
TimA: That has seen a lot of salt!!
I would suggest selling it and getting a new one. It not worth doing much to it unless you got it for a steal.


98% of the rust you're seeing is the exhaust, so not a big deal at all.


Whoops sorry. Here it is : http://www.fileswap.com/dl/qbw1mJDlS2/


What about the rust on the fuel tank though ?

And what do you think is the rate of Decay for the exhaust in the pic ? I live in Auck NZ and won't probably be visiting Taupo anytime soon.

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  Reply # 1011963 24-Mar-2014 17:24 Send private message

coolcat21:

Whoops sorry. Here it is : http://www.fileswap.com/dl/qbw1mJDlS2/


What about the rust on the fuel tank though ?

And what do you think is the rate of Decay for the exhaust in the pic ? I live in Auck NZ and won't probably be visiting Taupo anytime soon.



What you want to do to that bit in the corner is buy:
a cheap wire brush 
some Rust Converter 
and some Under Body Rust Shield  



First, brush the crap out of that corner with a wire brush so any loose rust is gone.
Then, with a small brush, put on some rust converter. You wont need much, but that bottle was the smallest I could find. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. It's acid.
Let that dry... give it a week. 
Wire brush again.
Wipe and dust off with a clean rag. You could spend a few more $$ and clean with wax and grease remover (we use prepsol) but meths would do the same thing.
If there's any orange rust, start again with the converter and follow those steps to here again. If not...
Spray with the underbody rust shield. Make sure the area is DRY before you do this.
You should spray that whole crossmember (from that left corner to the opposite right corner) with this so it doesn't look weird. Or just do both corners so it looks more "factory".

In a panel shop, we'd hit it with a grinder, prime it, and put on body colour.
At home, I'd do what I've said.

This stuff works and should easily last 5+ years.
I've got a 21 year old English import BMW and this is what I've done to kill the rust.

Rust on the fuel tank isn't an issue but if you wanted, you could follow these steps for that too.

I can't really tell with the exhaust without "feeling" it. Just leave it until it blows holes, and then you'd probably be looking at $8-900 for a new one. You have to remember it's 10 year old.

Hope this helps... 






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  Reply # 1011967 24-Mar-2014 17:32 Send private message

blakamin:
coolcat21:

Whoops sorry. Here it is : http://www.fileswap.com/dl/qbw1mJDlS2/


What about the rust on the fuel tank though ?

And what do you think is the rate of Decay for the exhaust in the pic ? I live in Auck NZ and won't probably be visiting Taupo anytime soon.



What you want to do to that bit in the corner is buy:
a cheap wire brush 
some Rust Converter 
and some Under Body Rust Shield  



First, brush the crap out of that corner with a wire brush so any loose rust is gone.
Then, with a small brush, put on some rust converter. You wont need much, but that bottle was the smallest I could find. WEAR RUBBER GLOVES. It's acid.
Let that dry... give it a week. 
Wire brush again.
Wipe and dust off with a clean rag. You could spend a few more $$ and clean with wax and grease remover (we use prepsol) but meths would do the same thing.
If there's any orange rust, start again with the converter and follow those steps to here again. If not...
Spray with the underbody rust shield. Make sure the area is DRY before you do this.
You should spray that whole crossmember (from that left corner to the opposite right corner) with this so it doesn't look weird. Or just do both corners so it looks more "factory".

In a panel shop, we'd hit it with a grinder, prime it, and put on body colour.
At home, I'd do what I've said.

This stuff works and should easily last 5+ years.
I've got a 21 year old English import BMW and this is what I've done to kill the rust.

Rust on the fuel tank isn't an issue but if you wanted, you could follow these steps for that too.

I can't really tell with the exhaust without "feeling" it. Just leave it until it blows holes, and then you'd probably be looking at $8-900 for a new one. You have to remember it's 10 year old.

Hope this helps... 





Thanks for this. I'll try and see what I can do. Since space is limited to jack the car up.

But say , I leave it, will it still last 5 years+...is it just cosmetic (ie. underbody looking ugly) ..or will it spread like fkn cancer ? Judging from that pic alone..

And also, could you take alook at the rust near the drum brakes , especially near the screw/bolt of the brake line etc. And that small rust spot near the bottom of the suspension/spring.

Thanks !

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  Reply # 1011970 24-Mar-2014 17:38 One person supports this post Send private message

The tank isn't an issue, but that corner should have something done to it before it becomes structural... once that happens, it's either big $$$ or scrap the car.
Personally, I'd get to it before the next WoF, for sure.

Wire brush those bolts and the area under the brake line and just paint with some gloss black out of a spray can. 
That bit could be the result of the salt OR a leaky brake line/bad brake bleed. Hard to tell.

If it's hard to get to, park that side up over a deep gutter. should only be 10mins work each time.
DON'T GET UNDER A CAR THAT IS ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK.

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  Reply # 1012371 25-Mar-2014 12:28 Send private message

Just don't use a grinder on the fuel tank! ;)

That rust converter stuff is magic, works really well.

Go over any obvious structural areas with a fine tooth comb, if even a pin-head worth of rust is found then they'll make life very difficult for you. Outer panels and "easily" replaceable bits like the exhaust are not a big problem as worst case you can just have patches welded on or resin + repaint.

If you don't have access to a work-pit or a couple of drive-up ramps, then get a mechanic to check it out, even a really good jack can let go on you and rib cages are harder to replace than exhausts.

It doesn't look anything out of the ordinary for a car of that age.




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  Reply # 1012376 25-Mar-2014 12:32 Send private message

blakamin:
TimA: That has seen a lot of salt!!
I would suggest selling it and getting a new one. It not worth doing much to it unless you got it for a steal.


98% of the rust you're seeing is the exhaust, so not a big deal at all.


I know that. Given some of the mounts and parts of the structure near the suspension has surface rust starting i would be careful.




 




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  Reply # 1012392 25-Mar-2014 12:48 Send private message

stevenz: Just don't use a grinder on the fuel tank! ;)

That rust converter stuff is magic, works really well.

Go over any obvious structural areas with a fine tooth comb, if even a pin-head worth of rust is found then they'll make life very difficult for you. Outer panels and "easily" replaceable bits like the exhaust are not a big problem as worst case you can just have patches welded on or resin + repaint.

If you don't have access to a work-pit or a couple of drive-up ramps, then get a mechanic to check it out, even a really good jack can let go on you and rib cages are harder to replace than exhausts.

It doesn't look anything out of the ordinary for a car of that age.



I got it 're-wofed' this morning at a proper station (VTNZ) , I know it's a waste of money considering prev wof is only about 3 weeks old. 

It passed. Only warning was the snow tyres borderline (minimum 4 MM, it had 5 left.)

I'm sure the inspector saw the rust on the corder of the black-spray painted member ... ? And no warning given, so I think i'm safe..

Another thing though the brake readings were:

220%, 220%
130% , 150%

handbrake: 120%, 140%

good ?

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  Reply # 1012404 25-Mar-2014 13:01

TimA:I know that. Given some of the mounts and parts of the structure near the suspension has surface rust starting i would be careful.


What's the age and condition of your car? It is quite common for heavy gauge components to have some surface rust. The body shell itself has better anti rust treatment.

That corner of the OP's car does look as if there's been something going on. The flex line has a hose clip that doesn't look standard. paint, signs of wire brushing. How does the weld in the other corner compare?

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  Reply # 1012407 25-Mar-2014 13:03 Send private message

coolcat21:
stevenz: Just don't use a grinder on the fuel tank! ;)

That rust converter stuff is magic, works really well.

Go over any obvious structural areas with a fine tooth comb, if even a pin-head worth of rust is found then they'll make life very difficult for you. Outer panels and "easily" replaceable bits like the exhaust are not a big problem as worst case you can just have patches welded on or resin + repaint.

If you don't have access to a work-pit or a couple of drive-up ramps, then get a mechanic to check it out, even a really good jack can let go on you and rib cages are harder to replace than exhausts.

It doesn't look anything out of the ordinary for a car of that age.



I got it 're-wofed' this morning at a proper station (VTNZ) , I know it's a waste of money considering prev wof is only about 3 weeks old. 

It passed. Only warning was the snow tyres borderline (minimum 4 MM, it had 5 left.)

I'm sure the inspector saw the rust on the corder of the black-spray painted member ... ? And no warning given, so I think i'm safe..

Another thing though the brake readings were:

220%, 220%
130% , 150%

handbrake: 120%, 140%

good ?


Brake readings look good (especially the fronts)

Make sure if you get new tyres you get all 4, don't mix snow tyres with regular :)


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