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  Reply # 1057209 31-May-2014 20:39 Send private message

Sidestep:
jonathan18: What is so special about modern cars that means the cost is so high? I read the post earlier that it relates to the modern features like stability control, but how exactly does this impact? (It's just this is depressing reading as I had intended to get one fitted on our car, but at those prices... Also I assume a non-official bar will void a new-car warranty?)


One of the issues with modern cars is finding suitable attachment points.
Most newer cars are built on a lightweight, engineered stressed metal shell, designed to crumple in an accident leaving an intact passenger capsule.
That's why manufacturers design their own towbars.
Some have flanges and tabs that mount to the weirdest, non intuitive places..


This is exactly why. You should also check the insurance requirement - dodgy workmanship, accident happen, there will be 1001 questions from the insurance company.

As both cars are brand new, I found it easier to get the original accesories - fitted by the dealer for warranty reasons.





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  Reply # 1057341 1-Jun-2014 02:05 Send private message

richms:

Also check that they wire the socket fully if you are going to tow a braked trailer. Without that the brakes dont disable in reverse and you have to get out and put the flippy thing down to disable them and then remember to reenable them before driving off again.


I can't say I've come across that yet, something that electrically over rides a purely mechanical hydraulic over-run braked trailer in reverse.

I've either used an electric drum braked trailer which requires a controller in the cab and uses inertia in the controller to activate the brakes in both reverse and forward (awesome thing is these don't brake unless your brake pedal is depressed).  Some vehicles have a controller as a 'tow option' package from the manufacturer.

The other is hydraulic disc braked over-run which works when shoving in to the towbar (purley mechanical not electric) - the one's you mention require to flick the lock out flippy thing so you don't compress the brake cylinder on the trailer when reversing. These unfortunately brake all the time going down hill and when you pull off from a stop they give you that horrible push/pull as the coupling slides in and out. You don't get the slop with all electric, but it's usually an older hydrualic trailer or new electric trailer.

When you get a towbar though, get a spare ball. If you get 1 and 7/8th ball, also get a 50mm and make sure you use the right size ball for the trailer.  usually hydraulic over-run braked trailers have trojan hitches that turn the handle left or right depending on the size ball you have. But many small 350KG trailers etc... are a fixed size and depending on the weight of load you could find out the hard way if the ball is the smaller (why you always wiggle after conencted and jack up the trailer to make sure it lifts the car and not pop off).




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  Reply # 1057350 1-Jun-2014 04:44 Send private message

kiwirock: I can't say I've come across that yet, something that electrically over rides a purely mechanical hydraulic over-run braked trailer in reverse.

What richms is describing is a reversing light activated solenoid that operates the 'floppy thing' on the override braked trailer.
I retrofitted one to our small trailer when my wife started using it to collect her larger trade me bargains.
If OP buys a bar from a wrecker or tardme the key is to self install it correctly.
Locking nuts, flat plate inserts to prevent pull through, correct strength mounting bolts - all the things a towbar shop/engineering shop would do.
I know it doesn't seem necessary with a light trailer, but any sized trailer coming free at 90km/h can cause a lot of damage.
I reckon $4-500 probably fair.

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  Reply # 1057362 1-Jun-2014 05:33 Send private message

timmmay: A mate of mine can do all that stuff. Maybe a tow bar from a wrecker and a visit to him will sort it.


Wondering if this ad hoc approach could lead to insurance claim issues later on if you had a mishap?  



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  Reply # 1057383 1-Jun-2014 08:40 Send private message

eracode:
timmmay: A mate of mine can do all that stuff. Maybe a tow bar from a wrecker and a visit to him will sort it.


Wondering if this ad hoc approach could lead to insurance claim issues later on if you had a mishap?  


Quite possibly.




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  Reply # 1057391 1-Jun-2014 09:10 Send private message

The towbar is considered a structural modification and must meet the standards:
http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/towing-connections/light-vehicle-towbar-and-fifth-wheel

It doesn't require certification, but if the tow-bar alters the structural integrity of the car (i.e not installed properly) contributes to a crash or contributes to any injury then I would say you could be in trouble with the Police and your insurance company.  

Get it done properly, and there have been several recommendations of providers you could try in this thread.




Artificial intelligence is no match, for natural stupidity





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  Reply # 1057399 1-Jun-2014 09:31 Send private message

I think I'll just skip it and borrow friends cars when I need a tow bar. Maybe when I replace this car I'll get a tow bar. Thanks all.




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  Reply # 1057408 1-Jun-2014 09:58 Send private message

If you're in the Wellington area, east coast towbars are around $350 fitted, certified and with electrics. Got mine through them and no problems. Took a couple of hours if I remember correctly an they are open on Saturdays.




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  Reply # 1059134 4-Jun-2014 12:13 Send private message

I purchased one from this trader on trademe and installed myself http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/auction-735387290.htm


In Christchurch I recommend Towright, paid around $300 fully installed http://www.towright.co.nz/



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  Reply # 1059143 4-Jun-2014 12:48 Send private message

I got a reply from www.towbarswellington.co.nz

Tow bar (Corolla) only is $310 all inclusive Tow bar fitted with electrics $390 all inclusive. Need days notice to book and need vehicle approx 2-3 hours.




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  Reply # 1060269 6-Jun-2014 10:21 Send private message

A big expense with getting towbars fitted to new model cars is the wiring.  With CAN electrics, you can't wire the trailer lights directly piggy-backing the existing wiring, but use bypass system with relays, for which less expensive (than OEM) options may be available.  For new cars with ESC, then the bypass relay system won't work with the ESC system.  There are some non-OEM systems available, but they're still not cheap - and possibly dubious.  OEM towbar fitment can typically cost $2500.

Another thing is that some (particularly Euro cars) have relatively high tow ratings, for example a VW Tiguan has a tow rating of 2000kg (braked).  However there is also a spec for the maximum tongue load, which is low, perhaps 100kg maximum.  If this is exceeded, then the ESC will not be effective when towing.  For towing stability, then the recommended tongue weight *without ESC* is usually 10-15% of towed mass.  If the tongue weight is too low *without ESC* then the trailer will be prone to dangerous sway. So there are two risks, that a 2T trailer set up for use with a car without ESC will exceed the maximum tongue load on a car with ESC, and that for a 2T trailer set up for a car with ESC (and ~5% tongue load) will be dangerously unstable when towed by a car without ESC.
In my opinion this has not been addressed properly by NZTA, where towing guidelines refer to manufacturer guidelines/specs.  Our conditions in NZ are not like Europe, but closer to what is typical in the USA (we might typically hire trailers for DIY jobs, borrow trailers, tow the same trailer using different cars etc).  In the USA, tow rating for the VW Tiguan - rated for 2,000 kg in NZ, is rated by VW USA for only 2,200 lb braked.

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