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Topic # 108524 31-Aug-2012 07:43 Send private message

I have a 2 year old Onkyo amp, and I like it. It does get very warm though, even though I have a 140mm case fan in my home theatre case.

I'm considering putting a fan on top of the amp to try to draw air up through it, with some rubber spacers to stop vibration. The amp could take a fan up to about 220mm, but I'd probably go with a 140mm fan like this one, hopefully those yellow bits are soft rubber, and it has a "silent" switch to slow the fan down. I might go for a 200mm fan if I can find one that's quiet enough.

I'd run it at very low speed most of the time, and just turn it up a bit when I'm playing 1080p content.

Good idea? Bad idea?




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  Reply # 679560 31-Aug-2012 07:58 Send private message

I don't know, but if it's not causing any problems, why add a fan?

It'll just push more heat throughout the room, and create noise during silent scenes?




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  Reply # 679566 31-Aug-2012 08:25 Send private message

The receiver gets hot enough to fry an egg when I run even 720p with 5.1 sound. It seems fine with 2.1 sound though. I figure electronics getting hot is bad, reducing their lifespan.

I doubt it will make more heat, it'll just distribute it around the room. Heat isn't an issue, it's winter, and the room has a massive heat pump if it gets too hot. The idea is I draw air through the receiver, out the top, then the case fan extracts it from the HT enclosure.

Or, I could just let it get hot, and replace it with another brand once it fails.




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  Reply # 679581 31-Aug-2012 09:09 Send private message

Haha yeah, that's the best option, I do that regularly to electronic devices...help them fail

Lets me upgrade them regularly, without too many complaints!




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  Reply # 679582 31-Aug-2012 09:14 Send private message

Is it literally burning hot?  Most components are OK to 80+ degrees, so maybe not worth getting too concerned about.  A better bet would just be a fan in the back of the cabinet or something to gently draw air through.

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  Reply # 679585 31-Aug-2012 09:31 Send private message

Onkyo's run stinking hot!

In some ways that's not a problem, but they have a habit of placing key circuit boards horizontally right above these hot spots. This has lead to the infamous hdmi failures in recent times.

It's often laughed at, but jaycar sell a laptop cooling stand for around $20 which is fed off usb. Being a bigger diameter jobbie, it runs at a lower speed so is apparently quite quiet.

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  Reply # 679589 31-Aug-2012 09:37

Maybe something like this popped over the grill on the top of the amp.

http://www.justlaptops.net.nz/product/245/laptop-cooling-pad-cooler-w-large-fan-leds/

Its USB powered though - easy enough to get a 230v USB adapter outlet though.
Might even need a little DIY to customise....


EDIT: Awww - someone beat me to that idea!!!




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  Reply # 679593 31-Aug-2012 09:43 Send private message

usb powered can be quite useful in some cases. Mate here at work did it on a PS3 install and being usb powered, it comes on and goes off with the PS3 itself, so no additional integration/switching work required.



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  Reply # 679596 31-Aug-2012 09:50 Send private message

The laptop coolers look good. Unfortunately they're made to draw air down, I would want to draw air up. I guess I could try turning the fan around. I already have two fans in the case drawing air out, powered by a variable voltage power supply to control the fan speed, so it wouldn't be any problem to add a case fan to that. The problem with a case fan is I'd have to fix/mount it on rubber somehow... even just the rubber that you put around doors to seal them would probably work fine.

My Onkyo amp doesn't have USB, though I could feed it over the to the PS3 in a different compartment which could power it.




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  Reply # 679608 31-Aug-2012 10:09 Send private message

Well, I'm a bit skeptical (possibly through ignorance!).

If the chassis of the Onkyo is already "burning hot", it would seen that internal heat is already being transported from its interior quite efficiently, and adding more airflow through the unit isn't going to help much. What you have to do is lose the heat from the exterior of the chassis, and the only place that can go is into the cabinet.

The most important way the cabinet is going to lose heat is through air flow in and out. So, I'd suggest that you make a bigger inlet hole and increase the cabinet fan speed.

Next step would be water cooling.

What we REALLY need though is cheap, reliable, room temperature superconducting cloth and wire. Put the whole thing in a bag of SC cloth and run an SC wire to an external heat sink.

For the whole experiment to make sense though, you should be making actual measurements of chassis temperature, otherwise, you won't know if you have achieved anything.



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  Reply # 679613 31-Aug-2012 10:23 Send private message

My theory is it will draw the heat from the receiver into the air, which the existing fan can then put out the back of the cabinet. I don't have a dedicated intake, it just comes in around the door which doesn't seal. I did consider cutting a hole under the receiver so the air could be drawn in, through the receiver, up through the case, then out the back of the unit, but I don't know if I can be bothered since it means taking everything out and reconnecting dozens of wires again.

Measuring the air temperature is easier than chassis temp, so I might try that.




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  Reply # 679619 31-Aug-2012 10:36 Send private message

You could get one of those "indoor/outdoor" thermometer jobbies. Either you could put the "outside" probe directly on the chassis (assuming it has the range to cope with such temperatures), or you could hang it inside the cabinet. If you do the first, you'll get one sort of information, that is, how well the changes you make are having the effect you want. If you do it the other way, you'll get an idea of how efficient the overall cooling is. Ideally, the temperature inside the cabinet should be the same at the ambient temperature! If it isn't, your fans are not simulating a free-standing configuration properly. You could also graph the internal cabinet temperature rise over time from cold to running. The better the ventilation, the longer it will take the temperature to plateua, and the lower that plateau will be (I think).

Also, I don't know if they exist in this temperature range, but there used to be, and perhaps still are, stick on thermometers that are no more than a strip of LCD material. These were used for aquaria. Just a thought.



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  Reply # 679622 31-Aug-2012 10:38 Send private message

I have an indoor/outdoor temperature thing, I'll just stick the outdoor unit on top of the receiver and see what it says. The air won't be anywhere near 80 degrees, neither will the receiver.




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  Reply # 679623 31-Aug-2012 10:46 Send private message

You can measure the chassis temperature using thermometer like this:

http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=QM7314


I have a similar one but with a long wire between the tip and the display.  I tape the tip to anything I want to measure.

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  Reply # 679625 31-Aug-2012 10:51

There does seem to be a trend for devices to run quite hot these days. I suppose its all the extra computing power they often have.

It was always regarded that electronic gear was better kept cool. I recall a server room at a particular establishment not that many years ago that also stored the bear for the social club - it was VERY cold beer!

While many of the components might be rated up to quite high temperatures - I think that excessive heat will still shorten their lives. I think you are doing the right thing trying to cool your devices. The other complicating factor is enclosing them in cabinets etc. They might well have been designed to run quite warm while free-standing. Shutting them up (or at least confining them somewhat) will push the temp higher than you really want.

While the product might have been designed to run 'quite hot' - they might have also only designed it to last a couple of years - Most of us like to get our moneys worth if possible.

Just a last thought - if you are pulling air up from the floor you might like to pop some sort of filter over the intake. As you will be increasing the airflow over the components, you will be pushing more dust through the system as well - just open up any PC that has been running for 12 months. I wouldnt think the filter would have to be anything fancy. A bit of fine mesh or fine nylon net curtain would probably do the trick.




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  Reply # 679626 31-Aug-2012 10:53 Send private message

Thanks Russel, I may grab one of those if I go past Jaycar. Good point about the filters Rob, I'll do that if I suck air from the floor.

Running servers at 10 degrees isn't required, they're running them at 30+ degrees these days.




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