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91 posts

Master Geek


Topic # 71004 3-Nov-2010 13:57 Send private message

So Due to an idea proposed by another forum member in this thread.http://www.geekzone.co.nz/forums.asp?forumid=34&topicid=70688 And the fact that my receiver doesn't have much clearence around it while sitting in the cabinet.

I decided some cabinet cooling was in order. I noticed the top of my receiver getting really hot after a few hours use, Figuring that this was probably not the best way to prolong its life. This idea was born..lol

From the other thread a suggestion was made to use 120mm PC case fans, Running from 12VDC. As I already had one of these from a build a few years ago, I just went and bought 2 more from the same supplier.

I decided that I wanted these to run from the USB port of my TV so when the TV is on the fans are on. As 90% of the receivers use is for home theatre, it's used in conjunction with the TV.
First I tested the current of one fan to see if 3 of them connected in parallel would work o.k. I know that USB can do anywhere from 500mA to 900mA. With a voltage of 5V. So they will run at about half speed. I tested just one fan and the speed seemed fine. Crudely hooked it up and placed it side on to my Receiver in the cabinet and after two hours of use the receiver was consciderably cooler than before.
So then I tested to see if the 3 fans would run from USB. So wired them up in parallel and they ran fine. Slightly slower as the current probably isnt enough, But with 3 fans cooling seemed adaquate.

So then came the building part. I removed the rear section of the cabinet and measured the length. Divided it into 3 even rectangles. then drew a diogonal cross in each box to find the dead centre of each section. this then gave me my circle centre for the fans.


I then used a compass to draw the circles for cutting out with the Jigsaw.
Once I had my circles drawn I cut them out with the jigsaw.


Now I needed to line up the fans so I could pilot drill the holes for the screws. I ended up looping a bit of electrical tape under each corner and stcking the fan in exactly the position and alignment for mounting.

Once they were stuck and wouldn't move I used a 2.2mm drill bit to drill the pilot holes strait through the mounting holes already in the fans and into the board.

I repeated this for all three fans.
I then used some self tapping wood screws from mitre 10 to fix them to the board.

Once I had all the fans mounted I then soldered all the wires together and heatshrinked the connections. This was quite fidely and awkward. Plus my soldering iron was cheap and gets to hot then not hot enough...lol

Then all I needed to do was take it back into the theatre room and hook it up to my laptop and make sure my solder was all connected properly.

Once I'd confirmed they were all working correctly it was time put the cabinet back together and hook all the gear back up with the fans.


So was a good little project and is working great so far!.. Putting your hand in where the gear is feels cold. My Xbox comes back from rrod repair this week so that will get slotted in there aswell...


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91 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 399616 3-Nov-2010 14:00 Send private message

Hmm photo links aren't working. This forum must be different than others ive been on...I will suss it out when I get home from uni.



91 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 399742 3-Nov-2010 17:28 Send private message

It would appear im unable to edit my post now..
Anyway here are the photos..
 

 

 

 

 

 

 












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  Reply # 399780 3-Nov-2010 19:02 Send private message

The only thing different I would do (from looking at the photos anyway) is some rubber padding between the fans and the wood. Can make a big difference to the noise output.







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Master Geek


  Reply # 399843 3-Nov-2010 21:16 Send private message

Hmm good Idea...Im open to all suggestions this is definately a work in progress...

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  Reply # 399863 3-Nov-2010 22:13 Send private message

Did you happen to measure how much current the fans were drawing? It'd be a bit hard now they're all hooked up. I'd be a bit worried they'd draw too much power from the TV and cause a problem.

I'm probably going to go with a solid state relay and a variable voltage power supply, using the USB output of the TV to activate the relay. It'll just give me a little more piece of mind that i'm not going to hurt the TV, and it could be a fun little project :) I'll just have to wire a little switch in so I can turn the fans on without the TV being on, for when i'm listening to music.




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91 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 399948 4-Nov-2010 06:58 Send private message

Na not yet mate haven't had time. I am also thinking about going down a similar route as you. Im also a bit worried about current draw.....Although my TV does seem to have a built in mechanism to cut off a USB port if its drawing to much.
As I was hooking them up the first time I accidentally shorted the USB Positive and Negative and the TV just came up with a warning saying "USB failure. Power overload". So that was a good piece of mind.
But I think im gonna go down the route of running from 12VDC power supply as the current will be higher and the fans will go faster(hopefully not more noisy). And just wire in a switch to the side of the cabinet near where I turn on the Receiver.....Although the relay does sound like a good idea. But im not 100% sure of how it would work and how to wire it up..

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  Reply # 399954 4-Nov-2010 07:47 Send private message

You would connect the coil of the relay to the USB on the tv, and then the positive wire of power to the common side of the relay then the positive wire of the fans to the normally open side of the of the relay. And the earth of tue power supply to earth of the fans

When power gets turned onto USB the relay will close and turn the fans on.

A small timer may be an idea aswell so that the fans keep running after the tv is turned off

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  Reply # 399955 4-Nov-2010 07:49 Send private message

It'll be a bit hard to measure current now, you have to run it through your meter. I'll measure it with my setup, which I hope to do this weekend.

A 12V power supply will make your fans run a lot faster. Fans take three wires, the third controls how fast it goes. It's probably quite easy to use that wire to tell the fans how fast to go, I plan to google that today to try to work it out. Alternately 5-12V variable power supplies are $30 from Dick Smith.

I'll be using a solid state relay as suggested in the other thread, and a metal case as a heatsink. I'll have a switch to manually turn the fans on, and hopefully i'll work out how to make it variable speed, either through varying the voltage or properly with the third wire of the fan.




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Master Geek


  Reply # 399980 4-Nov-2010 08:51 Send private message

Cool thanks for the Relay Wiring guide seems quite simple. I take it I would just have to get one rated at 12 vault?...And make sure it can handle something like 2 Amps.. So you think the relay would get hot enough to require a heat sink?....Hmm that maybe a bit annoying unless I mount it in a way that the fans will cool it..

Ive been doing a bit of work with Micro-controllers lately maybe one of these with a time delay would be able to replace the relay....I could also just write in the program that when the USB input is hight to activate a certain output.. I have a few PICAXE chips around only problem is they run off 5 vaults...

Lots of great suggestions guys. This has gone from a simple project to something quite alot more......But that what I love about Home theater and AV.....Lol that's why im studying it!..

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  Reply # 399994 4-Nov-2010 09:12 Send private message

Try jaycar catalog number SY4092. Even relatively thin wiring should be fine for 12V @ 2amps, I might even use some thick speaker wire I have laying around.

I don't know if the relay will get hot enough to need a heatsink... ask me on Monday :)

You could always power your small chips from the USB 5 volt (not vault fyi :p) input. Personally I won't bother, since it will be cooled well while running there shouldn't be a significant heat buildup to dissipate once it's turned off. Also, your system isn't enclosed, so I wouldn't worry about it myself. It'd be a lot of hassle for a very small gain.




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91 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 400353 4-Nov-2010 20:52 Send private message

Well after a shocker of a day!!...Got my phone stolen....And accidentally shorted and blew one of the fans....I have the relay all wired up on breadboard and working!!.. All I have to do now is source another fan, Wire it all up and solder up a small board for the relay circuit... Now I'll have full fan speed and still have USB triggering the on off...Great Idea about the relay timmmay!!!

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  Reply # 400375 4-Nov-2010 21:37 Send private message

That's a pretty bad day!

12V to the fans will pump a heck of a lot of air through your cabinet, i'd sacrifice some airflow to reduce the volume a bit. I have 140mm fans too, so I might stick with 5V, those things move a lot of air.




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Master Geek


  Reply # 400675 5-Nov-2010 12:03 Send private message

I made my own cabinet, 2 solid Rimu panels 1500mm x 670mm

with 16 Rimu supports each 45mm x 45mm.

The clearance above the receiver is about 100mm.

so there you go, ventilation from X and Y direction.





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Master Geek


  Reply # 400893 5-Nov-2010 17:31 Send private message

Is the light on the SSR supposed to be on when the relay is working...Have it wired up now with 5v USB as the trigger when this is on the fans are on but the light on the SSR itself turns on. And when the usb trigger is off the light goes off and the fans do....The way it was wired up last night, The SSR light was off. But still worked as per usual..

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  Reply # 400896 5-Nov-2010 17:43 Send private message

Check your polarity (total guess, probably wrong)




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