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218 posts

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  # 2311699 6-Sep-2019 11:59
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k1w1k1d:

The table isn't very good for woodworking, so I built a top and fence for it. Also mounted it on a cabinet. Fitted castors and had to strengthen the cabinet to take the weight. The drill press is all steel and weighs a ton! Twice the weight of the Chinese one they bought me at work.

 

 

 

@k1w1k1d - Which clamp tracks and clamps are you using on these builds? I've been looking at options recently for my builds.

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  # 2311740 6-Sep-2019 13:35
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k1w1k1d:

The H&S Police at work tagged out my 50 year old Dyco drill press as being "unsafe", so I had to take it home. Didn't have a chuck guard or E-Stop switch.



Your gain but it wouldn't seem that difficult to have fitted a stop switch and one of the available chuck guards.

50 years ago I remember having a part time job at a small engineering workshop. The owner had just bought one of those Dycos and someone had stuck a 1/2 inch hole in the table. As new boy the suspicion was on me for a long time until one of his friends owned up to doing it on a weekend. It was unguarded but I thought it had a switch on the righthand side.



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  # 2311749 6-Sep-2019 13:51
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And another storage solution. One of the custom drawers I built is for spray cans and caulking gun tubes:

 

Click to see full size

 

The cans tend to roll back and forward in the drawer, so I've drilled some holes through the left side and into the middle divider, then installed seven 10 mm dowels to prevent rolling:

 

Click to see full size


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  # 2317291 13-Sep-2019 17:25
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elpenguino:

 

 

 

If done and tested properly you should be able to argue (and win) this one with any insurance company.

 

 

 

 

Assuming of course you actually NEED the insurance company.

 

if done properly and nothing bad happens, well there you go.

 

Why assume everyone is an idiot? Some are, some do know what they are doing though.

 

My husband did all his own electrical, including wiring a garage. He did have an electrician come certify that, and it was fine. All the ohter stuff he did, he just did. 43 years later no issues.

 

 


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  # 2317765 14-Sep-2019 13:39
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Oops, sorry mrdrifter, I just saw your question regarding the clamps and tracks I used.

 

The red tracks and clamps are from Machinery house.

 

The tri-knobs are from LEP Engineering Plastics.

 

The long M6 bolts for the clamps are from M10. They are called furniture bolts. They have a large flat round head that I filed flats on each side so that they slide along the track and won't turn.




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  # 2338115 16-Oct-2019 14:15
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This is a little invention I made years ago now

 

Rivets need the correct size hole drilled to insert them. The three common sizes are 1/8", 5/32" and 3/16". They are imperial sizes because rivets were invented before the widespread introduction of the metric system.

 

It's always a pain to locate the correct drill bit so I glued a little tube inside the handle of my rivet gun to hold three imperial size drill bits so they're always on hand. The cap on the left keeps them inside the tube.

 

Click to see full size


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  # 2338153 16-Oct-2019 15:26
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k1w1k1d:

 

Oops, sorry mrdrifter, I just saw your question regarding the clamps and tracks I used.

 

The red tracks and clamps are from Machinery house.

 

The tri-knobs are from LEP Engineering Plastics.

 

The long M6 bolts for the clamps are from M10. They are called furniture bolts. They have a large flat round head that I filed flats on each side so that they slide along the track and won't turn.

 

 

 

 

No Problem and thanks for the info, as you can see I only just got back into the thread myself. I've got a backlog of projects underway and the workbench is one of them.


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  # 2338155 16-Oct-2019 15:27
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k1w1k1d:

 

The long M6 bolts for the clamps are from M10. They are called furniture bolts. They have a large flat round head that I filed flats on each side so that they slide along the track and won't turn.

 

 

 

 

That's the same technique I used for my router fence, it's been working for 3-4 years now, but needs an overhaul at some point in future.


neb

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  # 2347644 2-Nov-2019 17:36
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This is the result of the how-long-does-premix-concrete-last thread elsewhere. What I needed to do was concrete in a new letterbox to replace the current one which is hopeless for keeping water out in a coastal environment. Rather than concrete it into the ground, with little control over where the concrete goes, and leads to problems in fixing the letterbox post at the correct height and angle (you can't just nail on some braces), I cast the concrete into a form with the post at exactly the right height and perfectly vertical, then I'll drop the concrete base into a hole and it's done. Initial setup is:

 

 

 

 

The metal spikes are galvanised nails added to anchor the post in the concrete, the bit at the bottom is a plastic cap siliconed into place to stop concrete, and in particular alkaline cement, going up the inside of the post. Final result is this:

 

 

 

 

The white band is a strip of foam that I put alu corner brackets up against in the concrete so line trimmer use won't strip the powder-coating off the post, after tapering off the concrete so water will run off to the sides. Now all I need to do is wait for it to finish curing and drop it into the hole out on the street.

 

 


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  # 2347668 2-Nov-2019 20:23
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I spent my day putting up some trellis to hide the garden shed. Now that there are two panels up I think I will add a third.

 

First time I have used that fast setting concrete for posts. Works very well, makes setting post easy.

 


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