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  # 2141398 8-Dec-2018 07:30
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I think you'll be surprised how fast and effective a good file is.




Location: Dunedin

 


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  # 2141443 8-Dec-2018 09:55
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tdgeek:

 

Why I got onto this, is that the last mow, the mulching wasnt as normal. Grass was a tad long, but the mower was also bogging....

 

 

Mulching seems to require more frequent mowing... Now I just catch my grass clippings... 1.5 hours every 2 weeks (during peak growing time) for 500 sq m is as often as I want to mow. :-)

 

 





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  # 2141445 8-Dec-2018 10:22
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Gordy7:

 

tdgeek:

 

Why I got onto this, is that the last mow, the mulching wasnt as normal. Grass was a tad long, but the mower was also bogging....

 

 

Mulching seems to require more frequent mowing... Now I just catch my grass clippings... 1.5 hours every 2 weeks (during peak growing time) for 500 sq m is as often as I want to mow. :-)

 

 

 

 

It does, yes.  I mow once a week. The mulching saves time with the catcher, which is a plus. Plus this mower has a 21 inch cut which also helps. But the gain for me, is after a month, the lawn is being continually fed. It used to take me 55 minutes excluding the orchard, raised garden area. Haven't timed it lately but it definitely feels a lot quicker. I dont reach the "thank god thats over" any more!


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  # 2142161 9-Dec-2018 18:05
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wazzageek:

I have a couple of "attach to the drill" type sharpeners for my mower blades (I mulch and need to be much less lazy in terms of maintaining the blade).  So far I've been too chicken to sharpen the blades, so I've purchased a new blade, with good intentions to actually give the old one a sharpen (safe in the knowledge that if I stuff it up, I still have a sharp blade).


I'll endeavour to look at this over the weekend and report back early next week!


 



I ended up trying the file, generic rotary attachement for the drill , and one of these

I was way to lazy for the file (and the blade was horendous, I’m sure with a slightly less dull blade the file would have been fine).

The rotary grinding disk was the best. The thing I linked to above, seemed like a good idea, but was just way to fiddly.

One sharpened, what a massive difference with the lawn - much better (I mulch all the time now, the size of our lawn makes mowing once a week not a problem).

Now that the blades are sharpened, I’ve mowed the lawn (and now the blades are not quite as sharp) ... it’s time to chill out!

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  # 2142195 9-Dec-2018 19:29
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You know a normal rotary lawn mower just basically rips the top off the grass, no matter how "sharp" it's supposed to be?

 

Angle grinder is fine, anything more is a waste of time. Just learn to use one properly.

 

Look at brand new blades and measure the thickness of the "cutting" edge.

 

 

 

If you want a properly cut "lawn" you'll get a cylinder mower that actually cuts grass like scissors as opposed to tearing the tops off.

 

Even a push cylinder mower will do a better job than a brand new rotary mower.

 

 

 

(My uncle drilled this into me at a very young age, and he's right. He also mowed 1/2 an acre every weekend after 75hours at work)


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  # 2142218 9-Dec-2018 20:38
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blakamin:

You know a normal rotary lawn mower just basically rips the top off the grass, no matter how "sharp" it's supposed to be?


Angle grinder is fine, anything more is a waste of time. Just learn to use one properly.



Yup, totally agree on both points.


If you want a properly cut "lawn" you'll get a cylinder mower that actually cuts grass like scissors as opposed to tearing the tops off.


Even a push cylinder mower will do a better job than a brand new rotary mower.




Yup - trouble is finding a decent one ... and then getting our “lawn” nice and level ... :-)

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