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Topic # 248246 16-Mar-2019 07:13
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I haven't bought myself a bike in nearly 20 years but old football injuries mean I need to keep my knees moving.

I'm happy to pay around $1000, possibly a little more, and am considering hardtails rather than road bikes because my son will likely use it as well and we live rurally.

I'm 6'5 so only XL or XXL frames and I'd prefer 29" I think.

So far Bikebarn and Torpedo7 seem to have the best deals.

Does anyone have any suggestions on manufacturers/models at this end of the market ?


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  Reply # 2199415 16-Mar-2019 11:19
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All brands have very good pro level bikes and waste of time revoltingly bad steel clone bikes.

An easy rule to follow for 2018+ bikes is this

One gear in front = worth considering - The rest of the bikes will have good parts. Pre 2018 bike 2 gears at front worth considering. See next step. 3 gear at front =walk away.

Next look at the back gears
10 gears entry level components on rest of the bike for actual mountain biking purposes
11 decent components on the rest of the bike.
12 gears = enthusiast to pro (the price will tell you)

Note there will be an overlap of very good 11 gears at back bikes with as good (or rarely, better) components than the 12 gears at back ones. That's because only one company makes 12 gears and some brands don't want to use that company cos they are more expensive





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  Reply # 2199426 16-Mar-2019 11:42
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Brilliant, thanks Batman.

 
 
 
 


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  Reply # 2199440 16-Mar-2019 11:56
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Overall I dont disagree with Batman as a very rough rule of thumb, however it depends on what you want to do with the bike. One chainring doesn’t give you a huge gear range, so you may find you run out of gears if using as a commuter or flat tracking etc. . A hard tail will definitely get you better components at that price point but would suggest adding another $200 - $300 to your budget which will get you into the next level components. Any of the main brands at that point are ok. I have always been partial to Giant as one of the more robust retail models.

Alternative is to look at the second hand market. Suggest join and check out the FB page ‘NZ MTB SALES’ there’s always good kit being offered at good prices.





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  Reply # 2199445 16-Mar-2019 11:59
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Although I'm very slack and hardly ride it, I bought a Specialized Rockhopper a year ago and it is fantastic. 29" wheels, XL frame. Got it around $1100 from a local shop as the new model was coming out soon.

Definitely recommend. 



 

 

 

 


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  Reply # 2199495 16-Mar-2019 13:15
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Not sure if one is in a hurry for the bike. But have you considered just buying a frame and then adding your own componentry?

It does require researching and learning about stuff, but for me, thats part of the fun.




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  Reply # 2199503 16-Mar-2019 13:30
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TwoSeven: Not sure if one is in a hurry for the bike. But have you considered just buying a frame and then adding your own componentry?

It does require researching and learning about stuff, but for me, thats part of the fun.

 

To give you an example, I bought a MTB for $2000. the front suspension alone was worth $1800. So if I were to buy a frame and build with componentry it will be many times the cost of a decent bike bought as a whole.

 

Also my friend bought a Trek Roscoe 8 MTB for $1400. The (dropper) seat post itself costs $700 retail.

 

 





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  Reply # 2199504 16-Mar-2019 13:33
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If you can tell me the % of tarmac vs non tarmac riding I may be able to be a bit more specific with a bike recommendation.

 

In general, the asking price of the facebook forums are very variable, from 1/3 of RRP for a 1 year old bike to 2/3 RRP. Most bikes are discounted by 1/3 when there's a sale. I would be a bike on sale at 30% off because fixing a poorly maintained modern bike costs more than a car. For example, suspension big service = $250. 2 suspensions? $500. One tyre $100. 2 tyres $200. How much does your car tyre cost?





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  Reply # 2199509 16-Mar-2019 13:37
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scuwp: Overall I dont disagree with Batman as a very rough rule of thumb, however it depends on what you want to do with the bike. One chainring doesn’t give you a huge gear range, so you may find you run out of gears if using as a commuter or flat tracking etc. . A hard tail will definitely get you better components at that price point but would suggest adding another $200 - $300 to your budget which will get you into the next level components. Any of the main brands at that point are ok. I have always been partial to Giant as one of the more robust retail models.

Alternative is to look at the second hand market. Suggest join and check out the FB page ‘NZ MTB SALES’ there’s always good kit being offered at good prices.

 

Find me a MTB in 2018 that is over $2/3/4/5/6/7/$8000 that has 2 chainrings at the front.





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  Reply # 2199569 16-Mar-2019 15:04
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I'm try to answer the questions posted so far.

I'm not averse to going to $1200 but $1400 is probably too far.

I'm not really in any rush but the sooner the better.

I'll check out the FB page.

I'm not interested in putting it together myself but appreciate buying something I could upgrade at a later time.

% of tarmac is difficult. It's just a little off-roading to start with I'm not looking to charge down any trails just yet.

My car tyres are not cheap !


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  Reply # 2199674 16-Mar-2019 17:49
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the thing is i was going to suggest this if you're serious about going on gravel, but it has what's called "plus" wheels and tyres. it's very grippy on off road but a pain in the butt as a top-speed commuter bike as the rolling resistance of such a voluminous tyre is rather high. (i ride my MTB to work every day but I'm not too fussed about other bikes passing me)





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  Reply # 2199677 16-Mar-2019 17:56
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if you're not serious about MTB and also want to save a few quid this is slightly cheaper but the technology is much inferior, but it's a much better ride on tarmac (because it's less MTB oriented!)

 

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/3YBMMN9AG/title/2019-x-caliber-8-mtb

 

have not found anything else in that price (looked on evocycles and bikebarn). man bikes are expensive!





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  Reply # 2199680 16-Mar-2019 18:01
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for @scuwp, comparing the 2 bikes suggested, the expensive bike which unfortunately for those born to road-race on a mtb, only comes with single chainring up front has a gear range of 500%, and the cheaper bike that has the dual chainring up front, has a gear range of 537%





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  Reply # 2199716 16-Mar-2019 18:43
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Awesome Batman.

Both of those are on my list. Given they are doing 60 months interest free I'm tempted to go a little higher if there is something worthwhile.

The other is a Trek Big Nine 500 at Bikebarn.

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  Reply # 2199724 16-Mar-2019 18:50
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Nothing better than the trek roscoe on sale. As I said the dropper seat post itself retails for 700 bucks




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  Reply # 2199762 16-Mar-2019 20:08
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Batman:

TwoSeven: Not sure if one is in a hurry for the bike. But have you considered just buying a frame and then adding your own componentry?

It does require researching and learning about stuff, but for me, thats part of the fun.


To give you an example, I bought a MTB for $2000. the front suspension alone was worth $1800. So if I were to buy a frame and build with componentry it will be many times the cost of a decent bike bought as a whole.


Also my friend bought a Trek Roscoe 8 MTB for $1400. The (dropper) seat post itself costs $700 retail.


 



One can get a relativel good frame for around $300-500, then fit it out for another $500.

When one self builds a bike, weather it is a road bike, cycle-cross adventure, cycle tourer, bike packer or mountain bike, the trick is to not try and put all the latest and greatest gizmagicary on at once.

Once one gets something that is functional, one can upgrade bits - which includes changing out the frame if desired. To play on a saying, the bike has had three sets of wheels, two frames, 4 chainsets, 8 seats and two sets of bars - but it is still the same old bike.




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