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mattwnz
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  #3333591 20-Jan-2025 15:11
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networkn:

 

Handsomedan:

 

This would potentially fit the bill. 

Good quality componentry, a quality and reliable brand, the right kind of shape/type of bike for commuting, with fairly robust build, so it'll take some relative abuse. 
https://www.99bikes.co.nz/collections/bikes/products/2022-marin-stinson-1-st-tan-blue

 

Marin Stinson 1 ST Hybrid Bike Tan/Blue

 

  • Marin Series 1 6061 Aluminum Frame, Low-Step Design, Comfort Control Geometry
  • CrMo Steel Rigid Fork with Fender and Rack Eyelets
  • Power CX7 Mechanical Disc Brakes
  • Shimano Altus/Alivio 1x7 Speed Drivetrain
  • Kickstand Mount, Bottle Boss, Fender & Rack Mounts for Commuters


 

 

 

Looks good, but 14KG apparently. 

 

 

 

 

14kg isn't bad, it is probably  around average for that sort of like. Many shops don't list teh weight anyway.




networkn
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  #3333592 20-Jan-2025 15:19
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mattwnz:

 

14kg isn't bad, it is probably  around average for that sort of like. Many shops don't list teh weight anyway.

 

 

What she has now is pretty close to that. The two things making us prepared to spend decent money on a new bike for her was a reduction of weight, and an improvement in gear set. If we can't get less weight in our budget, then I imagine, even comfortably under $1000 should result in a significant improvement in the gears compared to her 5 year old Torpedo 7 Syncro?


networkn
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  #3333599 20-Jan-2025 15:35
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Handsomedan:

 

There's two things here really - the ~$1000 pricepoint isn't where you're seeing the deep discounts. It's the $10k+ bikes that are getting the hefty price cuts as new models come in to supercede them. 
Case in point - my eBike was $6k all up, down from a $10k rrp. Only a month before I bought it, it was "on sale" for $8k. 

 

I've seen $25k eBikes for $15k  - that's a $10k saving, but isn't cheap by any means. 

 

The other thing is the gearing - I assume you mean the overall compnentry? If so, it improves year on year, but doesn't necessarily get cheaper. Take (for example) the Shimano Deore groupset and below - made largely for entry-level bikes, youre now seeing Deore and the new CUES groupset on quite high-end and pricy bikes, so the idea that a sub-$1000 bike will get a marked improvement in gears/components may be wishful thinking. 
You might get slightly better performance fro mthe entry level components as the trickle-down effect is felt, but ultimately the savings are seen more at the other end of the market - as are the real improvements. 

 

 

Ah OK, well yeah, I wasn't aware the overstock was in that higher end, doesn't nor will it ever apply to us I imagine. 

 

She has a Torpedo 7 Syncro with horrible gears which use the Grip Shifter type changers.  We just want something that is smooth and easy to change for her. Not sure what kind of money would get us to that point. 

 

 

 

 




Handsomedan
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  #3333955 21-Jan-2025 09:12
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networkn:

 

Ah OK, well yeah, I wasn't aware the overstock was in that higher end, doesn't nor will it ever apply to us I imagine. 

 

She has a Torpedo 7 Syncro with horrible gears which use the Grip Shifter type changers.  We just want something that is smooth and easy to change for her. Not sure what kind of money would get us to that point. 

 


Gripshift isn't bad in itself - just at the lower end it tends to be for young kids. 

 

A 1x drivetrain with triggershift should be easily achievable and at the budget end (i.s. $700-1000) on a fairly decent commuter bike. 
It's when you start looking for a "good" road bike or an offroad-capable MTB that you have to start thinking specifically about the actual groupset you're getting. 

 

As a general rule of thumb, I'd say this would be your minimum spec, for something worth keeping: https://www.evocycles.co.nz/Product/583456/2025-marin-stinson-1-st-brown

 

 





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Handsome Dan does not currently have a side hustle as the mascot for Yale 

 

 

 

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  #3334015 21-Jan-2025 09:48
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networkn:

 

Perhaps my expectation of what an overstock indicated were incorrect, I had been thinking that there would be some half price bikes around, and I might have been able to get a lightweight > $1000 bike for < $1000 

 

 

how tall and how old is your daughter?

 

good components are found on $1000-2000 hard tail mountain bikes because they sell in large volume. on black Friday i bought a $1200 bike for $675 with decent components.

 

for commuter bikes with good components are expensive and rare in the NZ market due to low popularity (you'd have better luck in Europe)


networkn
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  #3334041 21-Jan-2025 10:28
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Batman:

 

how tall and how old is your daughter?

 

good components are found on $1000-2000 hard tail mountain bikes because they sell in large volume. on black Friday i bought a $1200 bike for $675 with decent components.

 

for commuter bikes with good components are expensive and rare in the NZ market due to low popularity (you'd have better luck in Europe)

 

 

She is 155cm as of today. 

 

I'd be pretty happy if I could get a $1200 bike for $700 honestly, assuming it's good componentry and suitable for her. 

 

For obvious reasons, Europe is not an option.

 

 


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  #3334042 21-Jan-2025 10:31
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Handsomedan:

 

Gripshift isn't bad in itself - just at the lower end it tends to be for young kids. 

 

A 1x drivetrain with triggershift should be easily achievable and at the budget end (i.s. $700-1000) on a fairly decent commuter bike. 
It's when you start looking for a "good" road bike or an offroad-capable MTB that you have to start thinking specifically about the actual groupset you're getting. 

 

As a general rule of thumb, I'd say this would be your minimum spec, for something worth keeping: https://www.evocycles.co.nz/Product/583456/2025-marin-stinson-1-st-brown

 

 

So, as I am narrowing down my choice online, what should I set as requirements to considering a particular bike in terms of knowing what the 'good' stuff is, as opposed to the not good stuff?

 

Deore used to be considered the good stuff in the past I believe.

 

 

 

My FIL who is an avid biker seems to favour a single set of gears, rather than 3 sets (sorry, I am using the wrong terminology, most likely). 

 

 


 
 
 
 

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geoffwnz
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  #3334051 21-Jan-2025 10:57
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networkn:

 

Handsomedan:

 

Gripshift isn't bad in itself - just at the lower end it tends to be for young kids. 

 

A 1x drivetrain with triggershift should be easily achievable and at the budget end (i.s. $700-1000) on a fairly decent commuter bike. 
It's when you start looking for a "good" road bike or an offroad-capable MTB that you have to start thinking specifically about the actual groupset you're getting. 

 

As a general rule of thumb, I'd say this would be your minimum spec, for something worth keeping: https://www.evocycles.co.nz/Product/583456/2025-marin-stinson-1-st-brown

 

 

So, as I am narrowing down my choice online, what should I set as requirements to considering a particular bike in terms of knowing what the 'good' stuff is, as opposed to the not good stuff?

 

Deore used to be considered the good stuff in the past I believe.

 

 

 

My FIL who is an avid biker seems to favour a single set of gears, rather than 3 sets (sorry, I am using the wrong terminology, most likely). 

 

 

I think your FIL is referring to 1x (or "1 by") as opposed to 3x (or "3 by") which means the number of chainrings or front cogs on the crank arms (pedals).

 

1 front chainring and 10/11/12 cogs on the rear is less hassle than figuring out which combination you should be in.

 

In the past (30 years ago) I recall the groupsets were called Deore and then the model.  So Deore XT, Deore LX etc.  At some point they dropped the Deore name into it's own group and just had SLX, XT, XTR above that.





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  #3334060 21-Jan-2025 11:18
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Yeah, 1x (single front chainring) with anything from 7-12 cogs at the rear. Rule of thumb - remove a front derailleur and you eliminate half of your potential issues. 

 

When I say 7-12, I am also referring to the cheaper, but pretty decent "other" brands, like Microshift. They do Acolyte, Advent and Advent X at the mid-high end, all of which are a fraction of the cost of Shimano and SRAM, but offer similar performance. 

 

My wife's entry-level MTB has Advent 8 Speed and it's buttery smooth, wide range and quite robust. It's the equivalent of Deore from Shimano or NX from SRAM. 

 

For commuting, the new Shimano CUES or Alivio/Acera range would suffice as long as it's a 1x drivetrain. 

 

Modern 'Tourney' (the lowest end Shimano MTB groupset) is about the level of old Deore from 10 years ago, but it doesn't have a clutch mechanism for chain tension (for offroad use). It's not a terrible choice for an entry level bike in the $200-500 range, but it always surprises me when I see it on a $700+ bike. 

 

This  is very similar to my wife's bike and would also be a good choice if you go down the Mountain Bike route. 

 

 





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Handsome Dan needs to stop adding three dots to every sentence...

 

Handsome Dan does not currently have a side hustle as the mascot for Yale 

 

 

 

*Gladly accepting donations...


Batman
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mudguard
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  #3334216 21-Jan-2025 16:14
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networkn:

 

I still haven't sorted my daugher a bike, seems like the weight factor is in the too hard basket, but if we aren't saving any weight, then really the only real benefit of a new bike for her is better gears, and I'd imagine in 5 years, gears should have improved at the $500-700 mark?

 

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on the weight side. It seems there are few mountain bikes being linked. Anything with actual trail tyres will be far, far harder to ride on tarseal with any speed (recently did a gravel/road road when visiting friends on a mountainbike with fresh downhill rubber, 40k in two hours with my heart rate pegged, no thanks!!)

 

I think the gear quality thing is less critical if it's spending all it's time on the road, there's not the much and wear and tear. The actual gearing is more important. I don't know where you live, but if it's somewhere hilly then that's another aspect and that's where a 1x (whether it's 1x6, 1x7 and so on) can potentially be an issue.

 

If weight and gearing are critical then you'll probably need to look at road bikes. As I linked earlier to the Sirrus X my partner has, the gearing is quite tall, but the tyres roll so fast it's not an issue (for me). I should borrow it and ride it up our only hill and see how I feel!!


JPNZ
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  #3334229 21-Jan-2025 16:38
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Pretty close to pulling the trigger on my 2nd ebike. A 2nd hand Trek Fuel EX-e. Then I can try it for a while and decide if I like the heavier full power Rail or the lighter and more agile Fuel.

 

Once Ive decided I'll be selling one. I can't financially justify having two





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  #3334251 21-Jan-2025 17:28
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mudguard:

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on the weight side. It seems there are few mountain bikes being linked. Anything with actual trail tyres will be far, far harder to ride on tarseal with any speed (recently did a gravel/road road when visiting friends on a mountainbike with fresh downhill rubber, 40k in two hours with my heart rate pegged, no thanks!!)

 

why does a 13 year old need to pedal at 50kph to school?


networkn
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  #3334254 21-Jan-2025 17:35
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mudguard:

 

I wouldn't get too hung up on the weight side. It seems there are few mountain bikes being linked. Anything with actual trail tyres will be far, far harder to ride on tarseal with any speed (recently did a gravel/road road when visiting friends on a mountainbike with fresh downhill rubber, 40k in two hours with my heart rate pegged, no thanks!!)

 

I think the gear quality thing is less critical if it's spending all it's time on the road, there's not the much and wear and tear. The actual gearing is more important. I don't know where you live, but if it's somewhere hilly then that's another aspect and that's where a 1x (whether it's 1x6, 1x7 and so on) can potentially be an issue.

 

If weight and gearing are critical then you'll probably need to look at road bikes. As I linked earlier to the Sirrus X my partner has, the gearing is quite tall, but the tyres roll so fast it's not an issue (for me). I should borrow it and ride it up our only hill and see how I feel!!

 

 

Yeah, I was definitely thinking more Hybrid than MTB, with Tyres designed less for offroad, than on it. My son has semi smooth tyres more closely related to those that would have been found on a Raleigh bike back in the day. 


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