Moving modem to Road side Pillar box

Forums › New Zealand Broadband › Moving modem to Road side Pillar box

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meow
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#1813494 5-Jul-2017 22:56

hio77:
freakngeek: Update
Found answer to my question above here
bingo, simple nat masquerade!

Bet me to my own game :)

You should sell the R7000 (since you can get a bit for them still) and grab a UniFi or two along with a cheap Gigabit switch. You won't regret it :)

Michael Murphy | https://murfy.nz
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freakngeek

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#1813538 6-Jul-2017 07:36

Switch sorted, my trusty old Linksys SRW2016 doing its job year in year out, should be able to actually use some of its managed features finally
Sits in office running all the cables running all over house, printer, VOIP (FB7390) backup server
R7000 selling might be an option, currently sits in the lounge running the TV, Amp and Satellite Receiver/PVR via cables
TV and Amp can go Wifi, Satellite Receiver can still go on cable as its Gigabit (does do Wifi also)

Hmmm, to do this with no disruption to Mrs and kids, late nights coming up

raytaylor

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#1817202 9-Jul-2017 12:52

Why not run 48v DC power up the cat3 and put a 24v regulator (tycon make a nice one) for the far end?

With a 12 watt load, over 400m of two pairs cat3 cable, 24AWG diameter, you only loose about 3 volts when a switchmode transformer is used at the far end to step it down to 24v.

Would be much cheaper and simpler than a solar setup.

You could even go simpler and use one of the pairs for a 85mbit VDSL ethernet bridge back to the house and loose about 6 volts instead in the pair carrying the power (still acceptable) and not worry about using a radio link.

Ray Taylor

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#1817208 9-Jul-2017 12:59

freakngeek:

Radios linking at ~450Mbps, not bad with guessing in total darkness with laptop on the car roof, wind screen freezing up

Dont forget that your radio license specifies that your power level cannot be more than the minimum required to maintain a reliable connection - if you are linking at 450mbps but only feeding it with VDSL, you might want to look at switching to a 20mhz or 10mhz channel width and/or turning down the power level.

Ray Taylor

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freakngeek

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#1817218 9-Jul-2017 13:23

I'm using 5160-5240Mhz, not in the radio license, I do use high channels in the house to avoid the low channels outside
Power level set to auto in the Litebeams, I have since aligned the antenna's to max out radio link, and I assume lower power output needed

Thought about 48v to road, but cable has joins, radio nice and neat,
Hopefully inspire others to give either route a try to get better broadband if circumstances allow.

richms

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#1817225 9-Jul-2017 13:33

freakngeek:

I'm using 5160-5240Mhz, not in the radio license, I do use high channels in the house to avoid the low channels outside
Power level set to auto in the Litebeams, I have since aligned the antenna's to max out radio link, and I assume lower power output needed

Thought about 48v to road, but cable has joins, radio nice and neat,
Hopefully inspire others to give either route a try to get better broadband if circumstances allow.

Arent those channels supposed to be for indoor wireless lan only?

Richard rich.ms

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#1817246 9-Jul-2017 13:51

richms:

freakngeek:

I'm using 5160-5240Mhz, not in the radio license, I do use high channels in the house to avoid the low channels outside
Power level set to auto in the Litebeams, I have since aligned the antenna's to max out radio link, and I assume lower power output needed

Thought about 48v to road, but cable has joins, radio nice and neat,
Hopefully inspire others to give either route a try to get better broadband if circumstances allow.

Arent those channels supposed to be for indoor wireless lan only?

would think if that was the case ubiquiti wouldn't provide devices made for outdoors supporting those ranges?.....

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raytaylor

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#1817257 9-Jul-2017 14:06

If you are not on the fixed license, then ubiquiti radios fall under the short range devices gurl and the transmissions are more restricted. See special condition 8

5150-5250 are for indoor only with even less of a maximum transmit power.

Ubiquiti devices can indeed be used indoors in large buildings such as sports arenas for creating dense wifi solutions.

It is very important to note that ubiquiti also has a bad history of keeping the software interface in sync with NZ regulations. You are bound by the applicable general user radio license, rather than what ubiquiti's interface says you can do.

My main point however is that your local noise level is -88dbm which means there are other radio spectrum users in the area and its always good to be spectrally friendly to your neighbours.
You dont need to be using an 80mhz wide channel and so should drop down to 20mhz so you are not causing as much interference noise. This will also increase your recieve signal level by approx +6db and bring it closer to the optimum -55 to -60dbi range, and make your connection more stable, reducing potential packet loss.

Ray Taylor

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richms

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#1817286 9-Jul-2017 14:58

Whats the reason for the indoor only limitation?

Richard rich.ms

freakngeek

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#1817368 9-Jul-2017 16:07

Crikey you need a degree in Radio-oligy to be able to put one up
I've gone to 5775Mhz as centre frequency and 20Mhz channel width to be a good Wifi citizen
Should my Interleave depth decrease I may need to go to 40Mhz Channel Width as I seem to max out 20Mhz

Now note 10 and 13 do not apply as I'm using 10dbm = -20dbw, in your face regulations :)
Small note, setting Litebeam max power to 24dbm (-6dbw) still complies

raytaylor

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#1817417 9-Jul-2017 18:00

richms:

Whats the reason for the indoor only limitation?

Walls and buildings attenuate the signal to create smaller cells of coverage, meaning channels can be re-used by neighbours in close proximity. Its a way to try and avoid the problems we see in city apartments and urban neighbourhoods where there are just too many wifi APs to get a clear channel.

There are also other users of the radio band that have a higher priority - large blocks of the 5ghz band are used by the aero industry and satellites.

Ray Taylor

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#1817418 9-Jul-2017 18:03

freakngeek:

Crikey you need a degree in Radio-oligy to be able to put one up

Haha yeah - there is a welcome screen when you first power up a ubiquiti radio where you have to tick the box and agree that only a professional trained installer can set them up, and Go Wifi in Chch run the ubiquiti training sessions where you can become qualified.

We have a guy on staff who specialises in hunting down radios put up by security companies that are set to maximum transmit power - to cross a carpark.

RSM typically issue a warning, or a $1000 fine. Your second fine is much greater.

https://www.rsm.govt.nz/compliance/recent-convictions

The biggest problem is that these radios can operate on 5605mhz - which happens to be the same frequency used by the metservice rain radar stations.

http://blog.metservice.com/Radar_Interference

Which is why its taken so seriously. The physical characteristics of water mean the radars cant change - but the wifi links can.

Tomorrow's weather is ment to be sunny, "oh no we had interference confusing the data in our computed models because some guy was linking a camera across a carpark".

Ray Taylor

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richms

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#1817419 9-Jul-2017 18:10

raytaylor:

Haha yeah - there is a welcome screen when you first power up a ubiquiti radio where you have to tick the box and agree that only a professional trained installer can set them up,

Thats like the "I'm over 18" tickbox on those websites tho ;)

Richard rich.ms

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#1817424 9-Jul-2017 18:20

Pretty much.

I guess it should be up to the retailers to educate their customers as most people dont realise the cordless phone, reversing sensor, walkie talkie are all covered by general user licenses.

One example I can remember of a bad retailer is Mitre 10.

RSM changed the band plan of the UHF-CB or PRS license. Those are those 40 channel walkie talkies you can buy from jaycar, hardware and appliance stores. However the NZ and Australian channel plan changed and they made them 80 channel.

The general user license was re-issued to the citizens of NZ after it expired and the new license stated that "The supply of CB transmitter equipment that does not comply with
AS/NZS 4365:2011 shall cease on 1 December 2012"

Its not very clear language - "the supply of" means "illegal to sell" older radios in clearer language. But RSM gave retailers 18 months to clear their stock from the date the gurl was issued to when that clause came into effect.

However in 2017, the local Mitre 10 still has old 40 channel stock on the shelf gathering dust and the manager didnt believe me when I told him they are illegal to sell.

Ray Taylor

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freakngeek

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#1822575 14-Jul-2017 16:17

Solar panel finally mounted on frame and angled for mid winter sun
Battery sitting on 14.1v, can't ask for more than that from mostly cloudy days
Added a Temperature probe to the battery to help with cold weather charging

Some tweaking of Litebeams to have littlest impact on others
Signal -50db, power out -4dbm, 20mhz Channel width, can handle my max Interweb through put
Very happy with results

Biggest change of all, is the arrival of the ERLite-3
Plugged it in, got the latest firmware uploaded (was on v1.2)
I know a fair bit about networking, but this ERLite even has me pulling hair out
Basic functions are hard to setup.
I'm with Unlimited Internet, modem (DV130 in bridge mode) won't sync unless VLAN set to 10, so assume this is needed
With the R7000 with Shibby Tomato, just setup up PPPoE don't even worry about VLAN and it works
ERLite only worked when I with Wizard setup 'Basic' I setup PPPoE, VLAN to 10 and reboot
Once rebooted and PPPoE won't connect, I then delete the VLAN, and PPPoE happily connects
If I don't select VLAN at initial Wizard setup then delete it after reboot PPPoE simply refuses to work, tried all sorts of combinations of VLAN set and not.

Next issue was the devices in front of WAN, modem and 2x Litebeams, this too became a mission of trial and error
But got there and it works way better than tomato, I can see all 3 devices at once
To get this to work for any others that come across this post.
In 'Firewall/NAT', then 'NAT'
Add 'Source NAT Rule'
Set it up like this (192.168.1.x is infront of WAN, Router is on 192.168.0.x)

That is what most sites say and is easy, but doesn't work unless you do this
Set Eth0 to 192.168.1.1 (subnet Modem and Litebeams are on)

Then you can by the looks of it add as many devices infront of WAN as you like

Another annoying thing is one of the Offloading commands set to enabled, disables the GUI via router IP (my case 192.168.0.1)
But luckily with the above trick I can access it via 192.168.1.1 or even 192.168.2.2 (Eth2)

The ERLite could become a love/hate relationship, can get things working but wasting many hours in doing so

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