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Topic # 140597 14-Feb-2014 13:21
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Hi,

We are building a new house and I am going to be wiring the entire house with ethernet cabling. I'm looking at about 400m of cable, 18+ wall jacks and 2 network switches.

I've got a fair amount of experience with computers, but I only know a little bit about networking. I don't quite have the experience to make decisions of cable types so if someone could help me that would be fantastic.

I was thinking of using something like this: DYNAMIX 305M Cat6 White STP STRANDED for the wiring, but I don't know if it is going to be overkill. The wiring is going to be on zog framing and will be somewhere near power cables. I would like to achieve a gigabit connection between computers in the house with the possibility of expanding to 10 gigabit should the future bring a reason to need it.

What I would like to know:

> Am I on the right track with the cable choice?
> Where is a good place to get keystones and plates?
> What would you recommend as a network switch?
> With the right tools will I be able to install this myself and if so, what tools will make this easier (crimps, strippers etc)?
> Is there anything that I've missed that I'm going to need?

Thanks,

Sam

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  Reply # 987270 14-Feb-2014 14:08
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Relevant threads

Patch panel
Structured cabling
Similar thread

That's just on the first three pages of the forum, search will find more. Have a read through those and you'll get some ideas. Personally I'd hire someone to make sure it's planned correctly, and to do the stuff like termination and testing.




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  Reply # 987308 14-Feb-2014 15:05
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its probably easier and you will more than likely end up with a better connection by buying pre-made patch leads to suit the lengths you need.

if your patch panel is central you shouldn't have any issues with finding pre-made cables the right length

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  Reply # 987321 14-Feb-2014 15:12
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Stranded cable is generally used to make patch leads. When punching down you use solid core.




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  Reply # 987336 14-Feb-2014 15:34
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If the house is going to have Zog steel frameing then I would recomend conduiting inside your wall cavities as steel frameing is unforgiving when comes to cables (moveing or adding extras)

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  Reply # 987351 14-Feb-2014 15:47
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Bituser: Hi,

We are building a new house and I am going to be wiring the entire house with ethernet cabling. I'm looking at about 400m of cable, 18+ wall jacks and 2 network switches.

I've got a fair amount of experience with computers, but I only know a little bit about networking. I don't quite have the experience to make decisions of cable types so if someone could help me that would be fantastic.

I was thinking of using something like this: DYNAMIX 305M Cat6 White STP STRANDED for the wiring, but I don't know if it is going to be overkill. The wiring is going to be on zog framing and will be somewhere near power cables. I would like to achieve a gigabit connection between computers in the house with the possibility of expanding to 10 gigabit should the future bring a reason to need it.

What I would like to know:

> Am I on the right track with the cable choice?
> Where is a good place to get keystones and plates?
> What would you recommend as a network switch?
> With the right tools will I be able to install this myself and if so, what tools will make this easier (crimps, strippers etc)?
> Is there anything that I've missed that I'm going to need?

Thanks,

Sam


Hi Sam

You are on the right track with cable choice, just change to UTP for the pre-wire (inside the walls), it's a solid copper inside, not the stranded cable you linked.  It is not overkill at all to use Cat6.

Have you spoken to your electrician and chosen power points/light switches yet?  You can match the keystones to use with choice of fitting, ie:  PDL 600 series or Modena range, Clipsal, HPM, Vynco etc.....

You can certainly install the wiring by yourself, this can save $$ from paying someone, a large pre-wire for Data and AV can take approx 2 days.  If you go down the route of wiring yourself, make sure you get lots of info on the correct way to run cables and for "future proofing".  I would recommend leaving the fitout to a competent installer as the price of specialized tooling can be quite large upfront. 

Good luck :)




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  Reply # 987370 14-Feb-2014 16:22
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Spyware: Stranded cable is generally used to make patch leads. When punching down you use solid core.


This. Don't use stranded cable.

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  Reply # 987380 14-Feb-2014 16:39
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InstallerUFB: If the house is going to have Zog steel frameing then I would recomend conduiting inside your wall cavities as steel frameing is unforgiving when comes to cables (moveing or adding extras)


Yes, that is a big issue to consider. You see these guys plugging all the benefits of steel framing; but drilling holes for any new services would be a difficult thing. Not to mention protecting cables or pipes from the steel.




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  Reply # 987385 14-Feb-2014 16:54
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InstallerUFB: If the house is going to have Zog steel framing then I would recommend conduiting inside your wall cavities as steel framing is unforgiving when it comes to cables (moving or adding extras)

This makes complete sense to me - get it done before the walls are lined - but it will add considerably to your budget.
Presumably one of the reasons that you are running so many cables is that you anticipate poor wireless reception - as you will be living in a Faraday cage.




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  Reply # 987408 14-Feb-2014 18:01
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DarthKermit:You see these guys plugging all the benefits of steel framing; but drilling holes for any new services would be a difficult thing. Not to mention protecting cables or pipes from the steel.


It's quite a cool process making the steel frame homes, all the holes are "pre-cut" by machine prior to delivery (a bit like the old Lockwood wooden homes) including all the wire holes, it's the after-thought holes that leave excessive sharp edges, which are all plugged with rubber/plastic bushing to protect the cable anyway.  Locally we have one of the bigger steel framing crowds and I was lucky enough to watch his machine run out an entire home in a couple of hours all from a file produce from his laptop.

The key is to plan ahead and "future-proof", especially if you have a two-story home with concrete pad and flat roof. 




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  Reply # 987435 14-Feb-2014 18:44

Bituser: Hi,

We are building a new house and I am going to be wiring the entire house with ethernet cabling. I'm looking at about 400m of cable, 18+ wall jacks and 2 network switches.

I've got a fair amount of experience with computers, but I only know a little bit about networking. I don't quite have the experience to make decisions of cable types so if someone could help me that would be fantastic.

I was thinking of using something like this: DYNAMIX 305M Cat6 White STP STRANDED for the wiring, but I don't know if it is going to be overkill. The wiring is going to be on zog framing and will be somewhere near power cables. I would like to achieve a gigabit connection between computers in the house with the possibility of expanding to 10 gigabit should the future bring a reason to need it.

What I would like to know:

> Am I on the right track with the cable choice?
> Where is a good place to get keystones and plates?
> What would you recommend as a network switch?
> With the right tools will I be able to install this myself and if so, what tools will make this easier (crimps, strippers etc)?
> Is there anything that I've missed that I'm going to need?

Thanks,

Sam


1- I think you are on the right track for cable choice. Yes- get cat6 IMO. I'd avoid some of the very low cost options available on online auctions.

2- I have had good service/products from http://www.darkstar.co.nz/  Just an opinion.

3- Can't recommend a cabinet/network switch. Depends if you need to manage it or not. Also, most of the switches with lots of ports and/or managed, are intended for rack mounted solutions.

4- Yes. You only need a few tools. You need a punchdown tool, a cable stripper and a cable tester. Like all tools, there is huge difference in price. Roughly (for reasonable quality), $20-30 for punchdown tool,; $10-$20 cable stripper; $20-$80 tester. Note: Cable Tester only measures continuity- not the quality of the cable.

5- Anything you missed? Patch panels? I plan on 2 CAT6 connections to every room I hook up. But, you might want to allocate extra space for things like remote cameras etc.



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  Reply # 987818 15-Feb-2014 16:17
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Re gibbing isn't a big deal if you do a full sheet so don't be afraid to do that in your hallway at a later date if you have not enough cable.




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  Reply # 987819 15-Feb-2014 16:17
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Re gibbing isn't a big deal if you do a full sheet so don't be afraid to do that in your hallway at a later date if you have not enough cable.




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  Reply # 988208 16-Feb-2014 13:09
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You might want to allow the odd outlet high up on the wall (just below the ceiling) for that wireless box or a wall-mounted TV. STP cable is overkill if you manage to keep it 300mm away from flourescent light fittings, and more sensitive to being bent too tightly. Cat.6 UTP is all you need, but take care not to kink the cable as you run it, UTP tends to twist up and snag as you pull it in.

If you are careful not to cut too deep you can strip cable jacket with a knife, but either way check that your stripper doesn't cut into the wire insulation. Terminate the wires as close as you can to the jack, ie with minimal wiring exposed. Note that its better to waste a metre or two of cable at each end than to find you are 200mm short and have to run another cable.




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  Reply # 988446 16-Feb-2014 19:53
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As every one else has generally said, in wall cabling use Cat 6 solid core.  Is designed to be used in punch down blocks that are on the back of most patch panels and RJ45 wall jacks.  Make sure the patch panels and wall jacks are also Cat 6 and not Cat 5, most are these days, but pays to check.  Honestly unless you are set on those low profile DIN switch's, I'd ditch that 100M switch and find a Gigabit switch.  IF your streaming from the internet, you probably won't see any difference.  If there is any PC to PC traffic going on it really will benefit.  Also 11N and 11AC WiFi can use all of a 100M connection.

What are you going to use for a patch, have a look at the signet St2000 and st4000 range, last time I looked cory's stocked them.  Think about where you want it as its a good point to terminate your broad band into and UFB in the future.  It'll also need power.   


If you have a media centre area or cupboard, run multiple runs, 6 is not over kill, I have a PS3, Apple TV, Amp, MySky and a media server.  

While your at it think about HDMI cables in the wall.  



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  Reply # 988465 16-Feb-2014 20:24
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For short run areas like floor level terminations for AV gear to wall mounted TV put some string or single wire strands in the wall alongside your cable runs to draw through new leads when connections or standards change.

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