Access to remote off-grid site via Starlink

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trig42

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#318142 20-Dec-2024 11:20

Hi,

We have an off-grid bach, and would like to be able to remotely monitor a couple of things there.

We've just installed a decent solar array to run refrigeration and lights. It's connected to an Inverter/Solar controller and a large Lithium battery (48V, 110Ah)

Just throwing the idea around that we'd like remote to check the solar controller and inverter, and maybe a couple of IP cameras.

Starlink is the only option for decent net connection - 4G is patchy at best and there is no hope of a fibre ever running there.

Question is: assuming we want to outlay the money for a Starlink Mini, what's the best way of remotely accessing IP cameras and the controller's interface over this connection. Starlink will be a CG-NAT connection.

Dynamic DNS on a router, put the Starlink into a bridge mode (can they even do that)?

Something like Agilicus (would need the Agilicus connector installed on something - a low power PC, RaspPi or OpenWRT router. I don't have any experience with the last 2, but would be happy to play on a RPi - they're cheap enough.

Something else - WWYD?

xpd

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#3322673 20-Dec-2024 11:40

If putting a PC in place, then something like Tailscale would work. Wouldnt even need the dynamic DNS.

I use Tailscale to access my home devices when I'm out and out/work.

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coffeebaron

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#3322731 20-Dec-2024 13:08

Yeah either something that can talk back to allow you to connect in due to CGNAT, or speed more $$ and get their entry level (40GB priorty + unlimited) business plan with public IP. I suggest not the mini if you want plan flexibilty, and I'm not sure if you can put the mini into bypass mode.

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trig42

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#3322739 20-Dec-2024 13:48

coffeebaron:

Yeah either something that can talk back to allow you to connect in due to CGNAT, or speed more $$ and get their entry level (40GB priorty + unlimited) business plan with public IP. I suggest not the mini if you want plan flexibilty, and I'm not sure if you can put the mini into bypass mode.

Thanks,

From what I've read, Bypass does work on the Mini.

Reason for the mini, is the lower power usage. Every Watt counts ;)

cyril7

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#3322825 20-Dec-2024 15:33

Hi I use a small mikrotik router with wire guard, or you could set it up with tailscale. I have my wire guard tunnels terminate back to a cloud router in vultr and I can access assets from there.

PM me if you want to discuss more.

Cyril

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#3322838 20-Dec-2024 16:22

Cloud-native cameras like the Tapo series that I use may be your best bet. No static IP address or router pinholes are required. For these cameras the storage is local and optionally you can upload footage of any detected movement to their cloud for an annual charge. If there was a power outage on site for any reason, the cloud storage would let you see any movement within view before the power went out even though the camera itself is no longer accessible.

Pointing one of these inexpensive cameras at the solar controller if it has an LCD may be a sufficient solution. Alternatively, a low powered device like the Raspberry Pi (as already mentioned above) may be able to read the information you want from the controller and email it to you periodically, again so you don't need to reach into the network to access it.

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nedkelly

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#3322842 20-Dec-2024 16:40

I wholeheartedly throw my support behind Tailscale, I've got mine running on a Raspberry Pi 2 W on Wi-Fi, works amazing behind CG-NAT, just had to make sure to advertise my IP range after setting it up, then worked perfectly.

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#3322859 20-Dec-2024 17:23

I use cloudflare and cloudflared. It works very well once set up.

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raytaylor

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#3323208 22-Dec-2024 14:54

48v 110ah with cameras and a switched-off-fridge wouldnt give you much runtime with a starlink mini - they consume a lot of power.
Between 45-110 watts for the starlink alone.

Two or three days of overcast would have the battery run flat.

If there is a local isp you could connect to, their typical radio equipment uses about 8-10 watts and a cellular 4g connection would be less than 12 watts.

If its just remote access to the cameras you need, you could enable p2p mode in the NVR recorder (all main brands of camera system have this) and that will do the job of connecting it to an app.

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trig42

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#3323220 22-Dec-2024 15:00

raytaylor:

48v 110ah with cameras and a switched-off-fridge wouldnt give you much runtime with a starlink mini - they consume a lot of power.
Between 45-110 watts for the starlink alone.

Two or three days of overcast would have the battery run flat.

If there is a local isp you could connect to, their typical radio equipment uses about 8-10 watts and a cellular 4g connection would be less than 12 watts.

If it's just remote access to the cameras you need, you could enable p2p mode in the NVR recorder (all main brands of camera system have this) and that will do the job of connecting it to an app.

Thanks Ray - Starlink say the mini uses 15W idle and averages up to 40W. If it went flat, it stops. No biggie until the sun comes out again. The Panels on the roof still generate about 60-80W on a cloudy day. Sure, a sustained period of dark stormy weather will run them pretty low.

The controller will shut off the output before the batteries get damagingly low.

There's no WISPs anywhere near, and 4G is one bar at best holding your phone in the right direction with your tongue held just right.

coffeebaron

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#3323322 22-Dec-2024 16:42

1 bar 4G on a phone is usually sufficient to install a 4G modem with yagi antenna.

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