Macro options for DSLR cameras?

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Raikyn

189 posts

Master Geek

#693415 29-Sep-2012 16:42

richms: I got the non AF extensions first, but found I really needed the appature control to get enough depth of field, with it fully open it was hopeless and would only get a few mm in focus enough.

There is a very very fine line between enough DOF to see a whole ring, and getting your lights clear in the reflections.

I also ended up putting a white sport sock with a hole in the end over the lens to reduce the amount of black lens reflecting off the rings. Helped quite a bit but there is still some black visible.

Just a tip, if you don't have aperture control.
Attach lens normally, select desired aperture, press the DOF preview button on the camera, and take the lens off while button is still pressed. The aperture will be set on that lens and you can use the tubes with that smaller aperture. Just put the lens back on the camera normally to adjust/reset.

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Jaxson

8002 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#695448 3-Oct-2012 12:05

Thanks Raikyn,

Got my 50mm F1.7 lens and had a quick play last night. Crazy small depth of field and a bit of a challenge to focus correctly. Will opt for f2 and above (prob 2.8) normally as the depth of field is wider and the focus point less critical. Lots of fun though, a whole new world as such with the fixed zoom meaning you have to get far more involved in framing the shot. All good stuff.

Still waiting on the deal extreme macro tubes. Lots going on

gcorgnet

1077 posts

Uber Geek

#698236 9-Oct-2012 08:03

Chainsaw: Yeah extension tubes are a good start. If you're doing still stuff like that ring then you can go fully manual for focus and exposure real cheap.

Macro zooms are rarely (if ever?) true macro. They can just focus quite close. But it may be good enough for your needs, I don't know.

Macro primes are the best quality, therefore expensive.

As above you buy reversing rings that let you attached your lens backwards, say your 50mm, and get really close that way. I've never tried it.

Of course the closer you get to your subject with the camera the more difficult it may be to light it well, as you're getting in the way!

Just about to ask a dumb question but here it goes:

Can you use zoom lens with the reversing rings? If yes, I noticed the rings are compatible with a given focal length. In this case, how do we pick the ring?

Thanks,

Guillaume

Jaxson

8002 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#698290 9-Oct-2012 10:10

Pentax extension tubes arrived and I had a very quick play last night. I have the very budget (ex deal extreme http://dx.com/) basic tubes, so no electronic contacts for auto focus or aperture adjustment from the camera. I need to check out how I can tell the camera what settings I need it to work to, given it now can't get any info from the lens itself.

Seemed to work well with the fixed focal length 50mm f1.7 lens I now have. This is manual control of aperture and focus but I need to do a lot of testing to find out how to make it all come together and work well on my particular camera. (Didn't win the photo contest, so I'm sticking with Pentax for now...)

Basically what I have works well, so a huge thanks to all the contributors. It's producing crazy narrow depth of field though, so I need to investigate how much impact the aperture settings are actually having on that etc.

Zippity

683 posts

Ultimate Geek

#698978 10-Oct-2012 11:27

Go to the smallest possible aperture you can and work back up from there.

Have a look here: http://www.digital-photography-student.com/top-20-photography-tips-on-shooting-macros/

If you are really keen, there are some great margins in macro lens prices on TradeMe, but you may have to wait/compete for them

floydbloke

3488 posts

Uber Geek

ID Verified

#699021 10-Oct-2012 12:22

Zippity: ...
Have a look here: http://www.digital-photography-student.com/top-20-photography-tips-on-shooting-macros/

...

Thanks for that link, some good tips there.

Roses are red, that much is true, but violets are purple, not ****ing blue!

richms

27955 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

Lifetime subscriber

#699024 10-Oct-2012 12:24

Doing rings I found that too small and the reflections of the lens, the light box etc were too clear, quite a fine line between the whole ring being in focus, and the other stuff being as well. Bigger lightbox helped with some of it, but still at the lowest appature it was too sharp and you could really see the lens etc.

Richard rich.ms

Chainsaw

357 posts

Ultimate Geek

#699042 10-Oct-2012 12:54

Jaxson: Pentax extension tubes arrived and I had a very quick play last night. I have the very budget (ex deal extreme http://dx.com/) basic tubes, so no electronic contacts for auto focus or aperture adjustment from the camera. I need to check out how I can tell the camera what settings I need it to work to, given it now can't get any info from the lens itself.

Seemed to work well with the fixed focal length 50mm f1.7 lens I now have. This is manual control of aperture and focus but I need to do a lot of testing to find out how to make it all come together and work well on my particular camera. (Didn't win the photo contest, so I'm sticking with Pentax for now...)

Basically what I have works well, so a huge thanks to all the contributors. It's producing crazy narrow depth of field though, so I need to investigate how much impact the aperture settings are actually having on that etc.

Use the magic Green Button as a starting place I believe.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/60081-usage-green-button.html

Jaxson

8002 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

#699084 10-Oct-2012 13:48

Chainsaw: Use the magic Green Button as a starting place I believe.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/60081-usage-green-button.html

Ha true, but alas I have a camera from just before the Green Button era.

Yes, had a play again yesterday and all the 'f setting' aperture rules still apply. Lower f values give narrow depth of fields but do let the most light in. In my case I needed to set to a larger f value, say f8 or f11 to get the whole face of the ring etc in focus. This didn't let as much light in but will be fine for situations where the object is stationary. Rings on wood don't move much

Thanks for the links above, I'll go and check them out now.