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NZtechfreak
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  #804401 23-Apr-2013 16:33
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timmmay: Ambient light isn't some magical light that should always be used. I can improve almost every image with flash, a little or a lot, but I have quite a bit of knowledge and experience. I'm comfortable at ISO6400 but flash lets you highlight what's important in an image.

For context, I'm a wedding photographer. Professional.


Sure, of course. Particularly for wedding type photography, where your subjects are usually close enough to be meaningfully lit up by the flash.




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Bee

Bee
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  #804405 23-Apr-2013 16:43
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I'm similar to the OP - a bit of a newbie to photography and just bought a D5100 with 18-55mm and 55-200mm lens.

I've played with the camera for a few weeks now and done A LOT of reading on exposure, aperature, lighting, composition etc... I think a book or two would be good to buy but there is a lot of info online too!

I find Im using the 18-55mm lens the most except in circumstances where I can't get closer - These include:

A lion in an enclosure
An island or boat out in the harbour
A bird or possum(!) up a tree

These are just some I've come across in the last two weeks!

So there are lots of valid reasons to use the 55-200mm lens and I do find it useful and don't regret buying it, but I almost think an 18-105mm would be more useful and serve as my main lens if I had one...

Otherwise I've been shooting and comparing 35mm or 55mm and definitely think I would prefer to get a 35mm prime rather than 55mm...

So far I'm shooting either landscapes or family photos mainly, so the 18mm gets a fair bit of use too :)

Planned future purchases would be :

18mm-105mm lens
35mm f/1.8 Prime lens
External flash
ND filter








Doing your best is much more important than being the best.


lokhor

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  #804487 23-Apr-2013 19:22
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Bee: I'm similar to the OP - a bit of a newbie to photography and just bought a D5100 with 18-55mm and 55-200mm lens.

I've played with the camera for a few weeks now and done A LOT of reading on exposure, aperature, lighting, composition etc... I think a book or two would be good to buy but there is a lot of info online too!

I find Im using the 18-55mm lens the most except in circumstances where I can't get closer - These include:

A lion in an enclosure
An island or boat out in the harbour
A bird or possum(!) up a tree

These are just some I've come across in the last two weeks!

So there are lots of valid reasons to use the 55-200mm lens and I do find it useful and don't regret buying it, but I almost think an 18-105mm would be more useful and serve as my main lens if I had one...

Otherwise I've been shooting and comparing 35mm or 55mm and definitely think I would prefer to get a 35mm prime rather than 55mm...

So far I'm shooting either landscapes or family photos mainly, so the 18mm gets a fair bit of use too :)

Planned future purchases would be :

18mm-105mm lens
35mm f/1.8 Prime lens
External flash
ND filter


I went to a wedding in the weekend and I wasn't able to get very close some of the time so I really wish I'd had a 55-200mm lens. 

Mostly I am playing with the Auto or preset modes so not really fiddling with aperture, shutter speed or ISO but I intend to get a book and learn the basics.

I'm not really sure what the purpose of a 35mm f/1.8 Prime lens so be good if you could explain. also waht is an ND filter? 




All comments are my own opinion, and not that of my employer unless explicitly stated.




NZtechfreak
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  #804515 23-Apr-2013 19:55
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An ND filter is a neutral density filter, a piece of plastic/glass that sits in front of the lens to reduce how much light comes through (in theory without affecting colour much). Useful when you want to shoot wide-open (aperture wise) outdoors in bright light because you want to set up a shallow DOF, but where the lightning level would blow out the picture at your chosen aperture (I need to get one for my 0.95 aperture lens, at that aperture it produces very bright shots which really limits its usefulness in outdoors settings).




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Bee

Bee
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  #804517 23-Apr-2013 20:02
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As I understand - the zoom lenses are f/4.0 or more... smaller number = bigger aperature = more light into the lens = sharper details in low light = shallow DOF...

Basically resulting in better quality photos... I'm sure someone else will expand / correct me :)

Natural Density filter - Helps to reduce the light into the lens so its good for those long exposure photos in daylight - to get those waterfalls looking silky smooth / misty and to get the sky to be properly Blue on the bright sunny days...

Thats my amateur interpretation of what it does anyways :) - they cost about $20 so not too much to just get one and play :)




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timmmay
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  #804525 23-Apr-2013 20:08
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I'd avoid ND filters as a beginner, until you know why you might need one. An F1.8 lens just lets you play with depth of field - ie the "out of focus" background that many people like.

lokhor

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  #804544 23-Apr-2013 20:26
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timmmay: I'd avoid ND filters as a beginner, until you know why you might need one. An F1.8 lens just lets you play with depth of field - ie the "out of focus" background that many people like.


Ok that is a useful answer, can't you just make the background out of focus using photoshop though? 




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timmmay
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  #804548 23-Apr-2013 20:31
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lokhor:
timmmay: I'd avoid ND filters as a beginner, until you know why you might need one. An F1.8 lens just lets you play with depth of field - ie the "out of focus" background that many people like.


Ok that is a useful answer, can't you just make the background out of focus using photoshop though? 


I can peak a carrot with a fork, but it's not ideal.

You can't do depth of fields effects in photoshop. You can blur the background, but when done in camera the amount of blur is proportional to the distance from the subject. Done in photoshop it looks fake, and is really time consuming. Imagine doing 200 photos like that!

Anything that can be done in camera, should be done in camera.

Batman
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  #804562 23-Apr-2013 21:28
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Not just peel a carrot with a fork. Prime lens near wide open is like Katsuramuki on the carrot. instagram or photoshop blur is like peeling a carrot with a fork and butchering 99% of the carrot into a unrecognisable pulp leaving behind an uneven lump rougher than a maggot fossil

gradwefran
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  #805392 25-Apr-2013 11:44
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Hi

I endorse the comment about doing courses.  Photography is a great combination of technical knowledge and artistic endeavour.  Take loads of photos.

Not sure where you are based but I highly recommend the Community Education Centre courses for adults held at Wellington High or Newlands College if you are in Wellington.  There are sure to be similar affordable courses run by community groups elsewhere.

In my view it would be a mistake to load yourself down with too much gear too early.  It's heavy!  Rather, practice the fundamentals as that is what will help you not fancy expensive lenses.  Truly - its not about the gear and you can get very good shots from your camera although you will have less control over aperture and depth of field with consumer lenses.

For many years before I recently acquired my first full frame (FX) DSLR I used a DX camera like yours with a Nikon 18-200mm VR lens.  Its great as its a one lens solution and produced very good results. Never underestimate the convenience of not having to change your lenses all the time.  I see theres now a Nikon 18-300mm VR too.

If you feel you must get into having numerous lenses at this stage I endorse the Nikon 50mm f1.8 as a short portrait type lens on your DX camera - fantastic value and superb quality.  And as another poster suggested, the 35mm lens mentioned is is a very good lens as it will give you the same field of view as a 50mm lens would on a full frame camera and will therefore replicate the standard human eye view.

gradwefran
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  #805395 25-Apr-2013 11:53
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timmmay:
lokhor:
timmmay: I'd avoid ND filters as a beginner, until you know why you might need one. An F1.8 lens just lets you play with depth of field - ie the "out of focus" background that many people like.


Ok that is a useful answer, can't you just make the background out of focus using photoshop though? 


I can peak a carrot with a fork, but it's not ideal.

You can't do depth of fields effects in photoshop. You can blur the background, but when done in camera the amount of blur is proportional to the distance from the subject. Done in photoshop it looks fake, and is really time consuming. Imagine doing 200 photos like that!

Anything that can be done in camera, should be done in camera.





Try to concentrate on your photography skills at first, not your post processing skills.  I completely agree with the reply from timmay.  Get it right in camera.  Photography becomes very boring when you have to spend lots of time on a PC trying to change images.

timmmay
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  #805396 25-Apr-2013 11:54
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I wouldn't go so far to call the Nikon 50 F1.8G superb. It's great value, and under good conditions it works really well, but it doesn't control flare or contrast as well as more expensive lenses. It's a great lens for a beginner or hobbyist though, and I do use it in some situations professionally.

gradwefran
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  #805398 25-Apr-2013 11:57
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OK -  and to be fair I use the f1.4 version myself

timmmay
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  #805439 25-Apr-2013 13:34
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I didn't get the F1.4 as it was reputed to be slow to focus in low light, and suffer from tungsten focus shift.

Bee

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  #805449 25-Apr-2013 14:09
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If you are in Auckland or Wellington - This is the course I want to do!

http://www.bringyourownlaptop.co.nz/auckland/photography-classes.html




Doing your best is much more important than being the best.


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