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  Reply # 1082542 7-Jul-2014 16:36
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Thru the menu on the D600.  3a flash is set to TTL commander 0.0.  The pop up flash is -3.0.  As I am just triggering it. 

Yeah I can set to commander manual and go thru the power like 1/128 or full power and it works via trial and error.  I am just questioning if this is what to expect with TTL flash wireless.

I am using manual mode.  I put in 1/50 or 1/100 and F5.6.  Using the light as my main light source.  I am not balancing that exposure meter out or using Aperture Priority mode. 

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  Reply # 1082549 7-Jul-2014 16:44
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I don't think you can set the pop up flash power independently, at least not on my Nikons. Set whatever setting that is to 0. Everything exposure related, camera and flash, set it to zero.

ISO800 is clean on a modern camera, don't worry about that.

Can you please take the photo with umbrella at ISO400, 800, 1600, and 3200. All set to 1/100th, F5.6, TTL flash at/through your umbrella. I don't need to see direct for this set. You know what would be interesting though, instead of direct point the flash over your right shoulder, take one shot at ISO800 with the same settings, making sure the umbrella is out of the way. You're bouncing the light off the ceiling / walls.

I'm 99% sure this is user error as I do off camera lighting a LOT and never have this problem. It's just figuring out exactly what you're doing wrong really. In person it'd probably take about 2 minutes.




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  Reply # 1082554 7-Jul-2014 16:52
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pix

You want direct also or just brolly?  Manual mode right at those figures?  Yep sure ...
Just caught it - ok no direct flash.  Sure wait on :)  Appreciate it.

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  Reply # 1082557 7-Jul-2014 16:57
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Like I said, just umbrella for the varying ISO. Then the bounce flash shot I requested.

Make sure you've turned off rear curtain sync like I suggested earlier too. I've never once needed to use that feature, and it has some potential drawbacks. Leave everything in your camera on defaults unless you really really need it set to something else.

How long have you had your camera and off camera setup? This really seems like teething problems. It's not typical of TTL flash at all, and I'm starting to think you need someone to look at what you're doing to figure it out. Do the experiment I suggested above though, that will answer one question and hopefully rule something otu.




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  Reply # 1082564 7-Jul-2014 17:08
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Charging the AA batteries now :)
D600 since last year May'ish.  SB800 probably since 2005-06.  I did have some issues with the flash with my D70, sometimes the flash fired and other times it didn't.  Not sure if the camera or flash. 

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  Reply # 1082566 7-Jul-2014 17:10
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You are waiting for the flash to full recharge between shots right? Will be interesting to see the results of those 5 shots I requested. You might as well take a single direct flash shot at the same time as the bounce flash shot, just to show on camera TTL is set up right.




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  Reply # 1082572 7-Jul-2014 17:25
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Will do.  Oh when I had my D70 it did have the blinking green lights of death so some parts and circuit boards were replaced.  Will post the shots also with the direct flash too. 

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  Reply # 1082573 7-Jul-2014 17:29
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Just one direct flash shot, no need to do them at every iso. It's just a reference.




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  Reply # 1082675 7-Jul-2014 19:17
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Ok - I think I found the issue.  Thru the picture above in the menu when I set the pop up flash to TTL -3.0 my images goes dark.  If I set the pop up flash to "- -" it is fine. 

Images here.  The 2nd last one is bounced to ceiling / wall and the last one is direct hotshoe.  First 4 are the ISO's from 400, 800, 1600 and 3200.

I set the menu pop up to - - as I am only using it to trigger.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yj87vb2nbzhcqj9/AABgbiNBSPu8r-ou8tHqwWr8a








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  Reply # 1082676 7-Jul-2014 19:19
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These are the ones I got it to fault.  If I set the menu for the pop up flash to TTL -3.0.  Somehow the wireless (A) flash goes dark too.   All 4 are reflector brolly ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mv1s6yis2vj5220/AAAlx6kCmOJ18Qpivx5GyU5ia

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  Reply # 1082753 7-Jul-2014 20:36
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Ok that tells us the flash has enough power, which I thought was the case at ISO800 F5.6 but needed to check.

Unsure what you mean about the pop up flash and it's EC. You never said whether you reset to first curtain sync.

I never actually use wireless TTL and ratios like you are, and when I do I use two big flashes, not the pop up. I have used it and it works fine in tests.

All in all I think you have some basic setting wrong, and if you need to use more EC/FEC then just use it. One day you'll work out what setting you have wrong. Nikon TTL is generally really effective, though using a pop up flash to trigger is unlikely to work outside of small rooms. That's why most pro's use radio triggered flash, mostly manual, some ETTL. The best thing you could do would be to get someone good at this stuff to have a look at your gear, or even do a factory reset on the camera and flash to reset settings then change only what you absolutely have to to test this out. You can easily save your settings to an SD card if you want to preserve them, but  honestly if I changed any they were few and were done a long time ago. I pretty much only use the external controls on my camera, M mode mostly and some Av, and I can shoot anything, anywhere, anytime, any light at factory default settings. I do turn annoying beeps off though.

Where in the country are you?




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  Reply # 1083748 7-Jul-2014 22:37
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i don't have nikon gear and i'm not a pro.

1) don't use the pop up flash
2) use manual exposure (like you do) with these settings: ISO400; f whatever you like, as wide as you can; shutter speed 1/90-1/125 if no VR, or 1/30-1/60 if VR
3) adjust the flash exposure compensation as needed

what happens?



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  Reply # 1083752 7-Jul-2014 22:47
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I am in Wellington.  Re: EC/FEC you mean exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation?  The last set I posted the brighter set was set to TTL without flash exposure compensation.  TTL 0.0.  It was set to manual to to have it at ISO 1/100 and F5.6.  I set the pop up flash to - - in the menu so that means it is just used to trigger the other speedlights (in my case I have have one).  But does the first of the last two sets look correctly exposed to you with TTL set to 0.0??

Yes, I took out rear sync flash.  Yes, the flash beeped between shots and the red ready light was on. 

@Joke97 when you say you don't use the pop up flash.  Do you only use the big flash on the hotshoe?  I am trying to use the pop up flash to trigger my single big flash on a light stand  with an umbrella. 



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  Reply # 1083753 7-Jul-2014 22:49
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When the big flash is on the hotshoe.  It is fine at normal TTL 0.0.  I can use TTL and adjust flash compensation up and down and it goes darker and brighter .....

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  Reply # 1083775 7-Jul-2014 22:56
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if you want to do that and TTL not giving you results you need to shoot in manual flash power

use manual exposure as described, then adjust the flash power manually until you get the correct exposure?

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