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timmmay
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  #531217 9-Oct-2011 18:12
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The tricks with panoramas are:
- Meter for the brightest part of the sky, and expose for that in manual mode. Auto modes will make things equally bright, and that's not how landscapes are usually, especially the sky.
- If you shoot jpeg set a manual white balance.
- Shoot it in portrait mode, even if it takes more shots. Trust me, it just works better when you're stitching. Try it both ways.
- Allow 20% overlap.
- Be careful to get the horizon straight. Shooting RAW you can correct it easily later without losing much image quality.

Jaxson
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  #531218 9-Oct-2011 18:12
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Dynamike:
Definitely cheaper than spending hundreds of dollars on a wide angle lens!


Just make sure to fix your camera settings, or check that they don't change too much between pieces of the whole shotSmile.

silverbirch

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  #531225 9-Oct-2011 18:44
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Dynamike: If you find your 18-55 isn't quite wide enough for some landscapes, then I recommend photo stitching software. These programs join overlapping photos together to create a single panorama.

Microsoft Ice is free and easy to use. http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/projects/ice/

Definitely cheaper than spending hundreds of dollars on a wide angle lens!



I'm not sure but I think I saw some photo stitching software on the CD which came with the camera ....  I haven't done a panorama for years.  Did one once using Picasa I think, of the scene towards Martinborough from Bidwills cutting.  Turned out "not too bad".  

I'm keen to get HDR working - so far haven't had any success. 




"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air".

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Jaxson
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  #531252 9-Oct-2011 20:09
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Yeah canon offer photostitch which works quite well.

HDR, what software are you using?

Find Autobracket in your hand book as that's a good place to startSmile?

silverbirch

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  #531253 9-Oct-2011 20:13
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Jaxson: Yeah canon offer photostitch which works quite well.

HDR, what software are you using?

Find Autobracket in your hand book as that's a good place to startSmile?



I tried it with my Panasonic point and shoot, but think I might have moved the camera slightly when changing the aperture.  I couldn't figure out the auto bracket thing.  Used Photoshop to merge the images, but they looked slightly blurry, though quite a nice image despite that.

Yes am going through the handbook, bit by bit :-) 




"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air".

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silverbirch

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  #532374 12-Oct-2011 15:13
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timmmay: 

If you want to blur out the background a lot you'll want a fast prime, like a cheap 50 F1.8 ($200 or so), 

Oh and you'll probably want a flash like the 430EX II...



http://einfo.co.nz/shop/canon-ef-50mm-f18-ii-p-12898.html?osCsid=a2934f516ebd2d28694895fcc257e657

Is this the lens you mean?

Thanks 




"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air".

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timmmay
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  #532381 12-Oct-2011 15:18
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Yep, that's the cheapest fast prime you can buy for Canon. Image quality is pretty reasonable given the low price, plastic body, low quality optics, etc. Better than the kit lens anyway.

Or you can go for this if you're feeling flush ;) They're only worthwhile for professionals or rich enthusiasts.



silverbirch

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  #532384 12-Oct-2011 15:20
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Thanks :-)

As a mere enthusiast and a poor one at that - I'll have to win Lotto first! 




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alasta
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  #532477 12-Oct-2011 18:55
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I'm not familiar with Canon gear, but if the body in question has an APS-C or equivalent sensor then I would be reluctant to recommend a 50mm lens for it. A 75mm equivalent focal length is really too short for portrait and telephoto work, and too long for general use.

I have the Nikon DX 35mm f/1.8 which works out to be roughly 50mm equivalent and this focal length is very versatile.

silverbirch

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  #532490 12-Oct-2011 19:24
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I want to use the lens for flowers mainly, and other things like toadstools etc.  I've read extensive reviews of the lens and looked at images created using the lens and it seems quite versatile, and value for money for a hobbyist.  Though I have to say I didn't see too many pictures of flowers using it.




"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air".

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alasta
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  #532491 12-Oct-2011 19:26
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silverbirch: I want to use the lens for flowers mainly, and other things like toadstools etc.  I've read extensive reviews of the lens and looked at images created using the lens and it seems quite versatile, and value for money for a hobbyist.  Though I have to say I didn't see too many pictures of flowers using it.


For that purpose it should be okay, as long as the minimum focussing distance is sufficient. Ideally you want a macro lens for this type of work.

silverbirch

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  #532493 12-Oct-2011 19:30
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Yes - I've looked at the lens range, and really don't have the $$$ (until I win Lotto).  so will get this and see how I go.  Seems as though it may offer more than the 18 - 55 f/3.5 - 5.6 that I'm using currently.

I appreciate everyone's help on this.

I'd love one of those great Macros USM lenses but really can't justify, or afford it :-) 




"Dance among the moonbeams, feel the magic in the air".

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timmmay
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  #532499 12-Oct-2011 19:54
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silverbirch: I want to use the lens for flowers mainly, and other things like toadstools etc.  I've read extensive reviews of the lens and looked at images created using the lens and it seems quite versatile, and value for money for a hobbyist.  Though I have to say I didn't see too many pictures of flowers using it.


There's no point using the 50 F1.8 for that, use the kit lens. Close up at 50mm F1.8 the DOF is so thin you'll have virtually nothing in focus. You probably want to be at F8 for that, and lenses are all pretty similar at F8. 

timmmay
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  #532500 12-Oct-2011 19:55
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alasta: I'm not familiar with Canon gear, but if the body in question has an APS-C or equivalent sensor then I would be reluctant to recommend a 50mm lens for it. A 75mm equivalent focal length is really too short for portrait and telephoto work, and too long for general use.

I have the Nikon DX 35mm f/1.8 which works out to be roughly 50mm equivalent and this focal length is very versatile.


The 85mm F1.8/F1.2 are very popular portrait lenses.

Dynamike
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  #532588 12-Oct-2011 23:16
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A Macro/Portrait lens is far more versatile than a straight Portrait. It'll give you the shallow depth of field when required, plus the advantage of 1:1 close ups.

I'd go for the Tamron SP 90mm over the Canon EF 100mm. Optically the Tamron is as good as or even better than the Canon... and it's also much cheaper. Parallel imports sell for around $600. I've owned my Tamron SP90 for 14 years and it's excellent for both macro nature photography and portraits.

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