Fixing up an underfloor heating problem

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B1GGLZ

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#735419 20-Dec-2012 12:04

timmmay:
Am I being reasonable, or unreasonable?

That depends on the original specs in the contract.
You did have a written contract didn't you?
If the company followed the specs you provided then you are liable for the cost.
If they didn't then they are.

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Jaxson

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#735421 20-Dec-2012 12:05

Outside the box moment:

What about an infrared radiator bar above the toilet?

http://www.theheatingcompany.co.nz/radiant-ceiling-heating-panels-p-209.html

This would warm the tiles and the seat!

timmmay

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#735424 20-Dec-2012 12:08

B1GGLZ:
timmmay:
Am I being reasonable, or unreasonable?

That depends on the original specs in the contract.
You did have a written contract didn't you?
If the company followed the specs you provided then you are liable for the cost.
If they didn't then they are.

They supplied the contract. There were no written plans for underfloor heating, I provided a hand written note saying what I wanted but that was thrown away. I was clear about the areas to be heated.

This company does great work, but specifications aren't really written down.

B1GGLZ

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#735427 20-Dec-2012 12:13

timmmay:
I wish they'd done that. I had to push them to get any plans at all, and it wasn't that details.

They don't sound very professional to me. I'd want detailed plans and specs in a written contract for $40+.

timmmay

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#735429 20-Dec-2012 12:15

I had to push them to even get a written/drawn floor plan. At least their documentation and contract was good, 3-5 pages. One firm gave me a single page with no details.

Niel

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#735474 20-Dec-2012 13:21

nickb800: Couldn't they run the wiring for the additional heating mat under the house, and then feed up the wall through the same route as the existing heating mat?

My thoughts exactly. It just gets added in parallel to the existing one, no problem. No need at all to cut into the pad.

Our builder placed a door stop too close to a wall and had to replace 2 floor tiles to move it. This is on a concrete foundation. It took a while to remove the tiles, but very clean and tidy job (from a very good young Chinese tiler). He sanded the tiling cement down with a mouse sander. Afterwards you would never think the 2 tiles were replaced, even if you know they were. Not sure what would happen with a timber underfloor, you will probably crack some grout which can also be easily removed with a multi tool.

It might be harder if they used an epoxy tile cement as it is much harder than normal tile cement, but it is typically used only when tiling a shower with a plastic liner, and tiling the floor of large walk-in showers.

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mattwnz

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#735488 20-Dec-2012 13:34

Did you not see them lay it at the time? I would doubt a metal plate would transfer the heat enough sideways. I could be wrong, but it sounds unlikely. The other option if you have access to the subfloor area, is some form of underfloor heating under the floor boards of the toilet. But it is a large expense and not as efficient as under the tiles. Otherwise you could have one of the carpet things around the toilet.
But if you aren't happy with the job, go back to teh installers, as they should come up with a solution for you, espeically if they didn't cover the entire floor, if you specified it.

timmmay

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#735580 20-Dec-2012 15:30

I didn't see them lay it, no, and the toilet wasn't in yet obviously. Removing the toilet, those tiles, and another heat mat is no doubt the best solution, I'll talk with them about that.

Handle9

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#736185 21-Dec-2012 23:23

A few thoughts.

The way they have installed the mat is pretty much standard practice, they aren't lying to you. There are two ways of laying electrical underfloor heating,the premade mat you are describing or custom layed wire, taped in position. Either way they will put a layer of levelling compound over the top to fix the heating wire in place and also to protect it. They're going to have to pull up the levelling compound as well as the tiles, while trying not to damage the existing element. This can be problematic obviously.

Running the extra load off the thermostat should be fine, you're probably looking at 150 watts for the type of area you are talking about. If in doubt your electrician should add a relay to handle the extra load. I have seen lots of 3kw floors running off a 6A thermostat and it ain't pretty when the thermostat starts melting.

A metal plate definitely won't work, you haven't got enough extra capacity and, to make matters worse, you will be changing the levels that the floor is laid on.

timmmay

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#736229 22-Dec-2012 09:08

Thanks Handle, appreciate the thought. I never thought they were lying, I just think it hasn't been given enough thought. Is there a reason the mat is left so far from the toilet? If so then I can accept it, but I figure it can be done better.

The electrician the bathroom firm uses is apparently a reference grade guy, like super good, so once he's told what we want he'll do it to a high standard, or tell us if it can't be done or is against code.

Hopefully they can take up tiles without hurting the element. They shouldn't need to disturb the existing mat if they're just putting a new one down, but I can see it'll be a bit tricky.

I've deliberately not mentioned the firm name, as I don't want to harm their reputation. Overall they've done a fantastic job anyway, it's just one little thing, and I'm quite fussy.

Handle9

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#736234 22-Dec-2012 09:15

The main reasons is that most people don't heat areas that are largely unused.

The reason they may damage the existing mat is that they will probably have to either chip out level in compound next to it if they have potted over the mat. It an be done but it's tricky.

timmmay

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#736282 22-Dec-2012 11:52

Agree, don't heat areas you don't use. Where you feet go when you're using the toilet is the #1 area to be heated IMHO!

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