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54 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 756037 5-Feb-2013 12:45
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Geekamouse: If you've got a faulty dishwasher that's on its last legs, why would waste time and money on it when a new one is so cheap?



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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 756038 5-Feb-2013 12:46
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Not planning to live there much longer ... Maybe that's why I asked the question?

 
 
 
 


54 posts

Master Geek
+1 received by user: 3


  Reply # 756039 5-Feb-2013 12:48
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Geekamouse:
Geekamouse: If you've got a faulty dishwasher that's on its last legs, why would waste time and money on it when a new one is so cheap?


My stainless steel dishwasher cost $599.  It hasn't missed a beat and has a 2-year warranty just in case it does.  It washes the dishes, which is all a $2000 model would do.



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  Reply # 825131 25-May-2013 09:40
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*bump* see OP (just in case a sparky sees this :D)

googles suggests something to do with heating sensor not sensing ... i'm handing over the house so would prefer not to buy new

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Master Geek


  Reply # 829944 3-Jun-2013 09:44
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Just had the same problem occur and recalled this thread. My F & P 913T would get to the wash cycle and carry on forever. As with 'myopinion' the track and connector had burnt out on the controller underneath. Once I resoldered the joint everything is good again. From posts on fix it sites this seems to be a very common problem.



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  Reply # 830165 3-Jun-2013 18:46
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Can you post the steps? I dont know where my board is. Mine is not drawer, but the one big door type.


51 posts

Master Geek


  Reply # 830578 4-Jun-2013 17:00
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These instructions are for the 913T but may be similar for other F & P dishwasher models.
(The model number is on the left hand side of the door.)
Make sure you unplug the dishwasher first as exposed contacts will be live.
Under the door there is a panel which is held on by two screws in recesses pointing upwards, one at each end.
Once the panel is removed on the left hand side is a plastic box held on by 4 screws. Remove the ribbon cable. The bottom two screws need to be removed, the top two loosened and slid through the keyholes.
The box can be slid out with a bit of navigation around the wires. Remove the 2 connectors. (note which way round they go although from memory they are keyed). You can now remove the five screws in the circuit board to take it out of the plastic box, then check underneath for a burnt solder joint on the longer connector, labelled "P". It should be fairly simple for someone with basic soldering skills to repair the connection.
Reassemble in the reverse order.



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  Reply # 830658 4-Jun-2013 19:16
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no mine's different but i took a guess at where it might be

got the control board out everyting's fine

however i have diagnosed the problem by virtue of moving the DW to a different location that only has cold water - the water remains ice cold

DIAGNOSIS: heating element broken and hence not heating the water to the set temperature for the set amount of time for the cycles to progress

SOLUTION: anyone?

(yes i have come to the point of paying for a new DW but since i've come this far .... i want to know if i can DIY fix it!)

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