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  Reply # 761883 13-Feb-2013 18:46
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I'm in exactly the same boat, time to get a canvas (or laminated shade cloth) awning fitted over our desk. Be really careful with single point attachments, there is a lot of force on it. I would much rather go for a trapezoid or rectangle shape and attached along 2 edges.

Our old house had a solid hard wood fascia into which I could screw a row of hooks every 20cm or so and run a decent size rope zig-zag between the hooks and shade cloth clips. On 2 edges the tensioned rope was attached to the shade cloth to reduce the flapping. On the 4th side (timber fence) I also used a row of hooks but used bungy cord instead of rope which absorbed some of the wind load.

For our new house I've 99% settled on the DuraLock2 system (see TradeMe for a reliable supplier) and attach it to the top of our fence and the edge of the soffit where the fascia header is. I will avoid the rafter lookouts, we lived on site when our house was built and the rafter lookouts are poorly attached, just enough to hold the soffit panels up. The rafters will be okay, but you do not know which side of the rafter lookouts they are.

(As I'm not a builder, I'm using terminology from the internet and may not be the same as what you call them:

My handyman directed me to as a fabric supplier close to me (in Auckland). I have not looked at price yet, but should be good and my handyman has an industrial sewing machine.

You can never have enough Volvos!

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  Reply # 761884 13-Feb-2013 18:50
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Possibly the OP needs to look what wind region and zone they are in, and the local wind conditions too, such as wind tunnels. You can get the information and calculations from NZS3604. They may be in a low zone, so may not need to worry too much about wind.


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  Reply # 762077 14-Feb-2013 09:19
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Handsomedan: I have a Cedar house that i have had a shade sail attached to for about 6-7 years.

I have used the flat-plated eylets from the picture above (Pic 1) and they are marine grade stainless.
I used large marine grade stainless screws to screw directly into the studs on the house and then used the other style of eyelets (Pic 2) ion the posts at the other end.


Thanks for that. So how did you get to the studs? Drilled through the Cedar? How long do the screws need to be?




Yes - straight through the cedar and into the studs.

To be fair, I guessed as to how long I needed the screws - they were around as long as my finger. Whilst this is not that helpful to you, i can see my finger now and it's about as long as the screws I used.

Having 4 screws on each plate attached to the house does spread the load significantly, though.
I have a large square shade sail, pulled taut, with chains on the ends of each corner and the plates/posts set wider than the shade sail - so I end up with a nice curved-edge look to teh sail.

Handsome Dan Has Spoken.


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  Reply # 762123 14-Feb-2013 11:09
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A ceder over timber frame construction provides a lot more lateral strength, rigidity and resilience than brick veneer over timber frame. At minimum you would want something to spread the load over several studs.

Safest bet is keep it completely separate from the house using H4 poles or something like that. Not a big deal if you are planning decking under the sail anyway.

To some degree all this is dependent on how much wind you get, the maximum wind, and the size(?) of the sail. If your wind level is next to nothing all year then none of this really matters a lot.

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  Reply # 762492 14-Feb-2013 16:56
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Also check that there isn't a cavity behind the weatherboards, which is required on some types now. If so, you need very long screws.

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