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  # 1811211 3-Jul-2017 19:13
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Building a pigpen so my chickens can get their run back 😂

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  # 1817626 10-Jul-2017 10:04
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easycloud:

 

 

 

Question, where can one source good plywood for cheap (if there is such a thing).  I use MDF a lot because it's reasonably priced at Bunnings but it doesn't always cut it.

 

 

I would recommend plywood city @ Penrose, Auckland, or Plyman @ Henderson, Auckland. I used the latter for various marine ply when I was repairing a ply/glass boat.

 

There are usually a couple of grades, depending on what your end requirement is. Good quality plywood, overall, is not inexpensive.

 

The only issue is that most panels are 2.4 * 1.2 m ( 8 x 4ft). They will cut for free. I get mine cut in half so it will fit in the station wagon, unless I specifically need a full sheet.

 

The ply from Bunnings, or perhaps Mitre 10, seems to be a couple of construction grades, most are treated, or have voids, etc.

 

 





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  # 1817696 10-Jul-2017 10:52
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easycloud: 

 

Question, where can one source good plywood for cheap (if there is such a thing).  I use MDF a lot because it's reasonably priced at Bunnings but it doesn't always cut it.

 

 

Depends whether you are making an indoor or outdoor item and what finish you want?

 

Grades: go from A - D. http://www.plywoodcity.co.nz/shop/Structural/Plywood+Grades.html  A is free of any avoid or knots - something you might use for varnished  interior cladding panels or fine furniture.  D has quite a few knot and voids. Each external face gets a grade. The grade CD means one side is C grade and the other is D grade.

 

Glue:  Most using a 'weather-boil proof resin', which means the ply will withstand wetting and drying under normal conditions without de-laminating.

 

Treating: You want treated (e.g. H3) for outdoor/wet area use.  For dry area indoor use you don't need it.

 

Marine ply is a specialised product. It's treated and supposedly has defect free grades on all faces of all layers in the ply.   This is important in old-school boat-building where you are bending ply into compound curves and don't want hard or soft spots (non-fair curves) or gaps between veneers (accumulate water).  It's also why Marine ply is expensive.

 

Marine Ply is usually OTT for non-boating use and quite possibly the standards haven't been complied with on the internal surfaces. I've certainly seen voids and knots in the inner veneers of so called 'marine' ply offcuts. 

 

 





Mike

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  # 1818840 10-Jul-2017 13:56
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I was told that marine ply had a different glue in it to allow for the shaping of it compared to construction ply which would resist it more. No idea if that is true or not and a piece of construction ply that has been left outside as a table has certainly bowed a lot under the weight of the crap on it and being wet all the time.





Richard rich.ms

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  # 1818900 10-Jul-2017 14:49
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richms:

 

I was told that marine ply had a different glue in it to allow for the shaping of it compared to construction ply which would resist it more. No idea if that is true or not and a piece of construction ply that has been left outside as a table has certainly bowed a lot under the weight of the crap on it and being wet all the time.

 

 

Marine ply should use type-A phenolic glue that is supposed resist a 72 hour 'boil' test.  So do most exterior grade plywoods. 

 

The other advantage of marine ply is that being free of defects it's of uniform density/hardness so it bends into curves very evenly - what boat builders cause fairness.  Tension within a sheet is evenly distributed which minimises the risk of structural failure.

 

Ply often bows outside because it is too thin, inadequately secured, not well protected

 

This bench cabinet I built outside.  It sits in full sunlight, wind and rain and has not move at all. I clean fish and vegetables on the table so it gets plenty wet. 

 

8mm treated CD plywood, painted with acrylic house paint, plenty of screws into solid framing

 

No bowing.  Nil.

 





Mike

mdf

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  # 1839609 5-Aug-2017 20:21
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Quoting myself from 11 May (about 3 months ago):

 

I need to do some work to tidy up my table saw. I'd like to build a sled for it. Might use it more then.

 

Pretty much all my discretionary time since then has been working on that very project.

 

My 1950 Tanner table saw, inherited from my grandpa via both my dad and uncle. Neither of the latter two did any upkeep on it, so this was the state I received it in (yes, I had already started pulling it apart when I remembered I should take a photo):

 

 

 

Cleaned up all the cast iron using *lots* of CRC and elbow grease. Initially I went super careful using steel wool and very fine wet and dry sandpaper. Once I got back to bare metal in places I realised it already had heaps of tool marks and so broke out the angle grinder and a couple of brumby stripping pads. Things went much faster then. It's not perfect, and unfortunately there is a bit of pitting, but it's out-of-sight better than it was before. Before and after comparison:

 

 

Also sprayed everything with Dry-Glide which is holding up really well so far. Not even a hint of rust.

 

I couldn't get a belt the same size as the original, so even though it wasn't part of my original plan, I decided to build a new stand for it where I could tension the belt better:

 

 

 

I was originally going to put it on castors, but then got a bit nervous about the amount of weight that would be sitting on it (it weighs a tonne). But how to make some kind of jacking mechanism? To the internet! 3 hours of over-elaborate youtube videos later, decided on something a little simpler. Hinged legs, and a place to put a car trolley jack under. Jack it up, flip the legs up and down. It's not perfect (the legs can flop and get caught if you're not careful), but actually quite pleased with how well this works:

 

 

 

From there, things only got more elaborate. The original rail and fence were horrible. Wouldn't square up without a lot of manual effort and measuring so I decided to improve things. But my first replacement effort was a complete failure and so on to plan B.

 

New j-frame and plywood fence and rails. Took a *lot* of careful time and effort to get these square.

 

 

J-frame is pretty straight but it wasn't perfect. I added some aluminium extrusion to make it truer (thanks to my neighbour for suggesting that). Really wish I had thought of this sooner though. I would have changed the design a bit I think and made more use of stuff that is square and true out of the factory.

 

The Plan A version had a homebrew bolt with a fingernut starwheel on it to tighten it square. This took heaps of faffing around and didn't work in the end anyway. $6 clamp? Quicker. Easier. Cheaper. Truer. Again, kind of wish I had thought of this sooner:

 

 

The ruler uses a couple of bread bag clips to mark the inside and outside edge of the saw blade. I still need to think carefully which one to use depending on which side I'm cutting on.

 

Also built a cross cut sled using some old hardwood decking (vitex I think) as runners. This works so well - just line up your mark with the slot in the sled and away you go - everyone with a table saw should consider one:

 

 

Though again the j frame is just a little off perfectly straight - a bit of a wave at one point means its about a quarter of a mm off perfect. You know, a jointer would really make these projects so much easier and better...

 

Overall, super pleased with my results. I'm already using the table saw way more than I used to. Though I probably should have planned this out a bit better. Design would almost certainly have been different, and there would have been quite a few less false starts. I also suspect I would have made more use of the aluminium extrusion, probably including the fence and maybe more on the rails.

 

EDIT: deleting duplicated picture


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  # 1839660 5-Aug-2017 23:46
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Made a quick rustic self for my daughter's bedroom, made from pallet wood.

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  # 1839748 6-Aug-2017 09:33
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jimbob79: Made a quick rustic self for my daughter's bedroom ...

 

Cloning as a DIY project ... impressed! laughing




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  # 1839929 6-Aug-2017 15:16
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This tangled nest of wires is to control my sump pump under our house. I'm no expert on electronics, but I managed to get this working years ago. Needs a few improvements and wires re-connected to make it work.

 

I cannibalised one of those plug in 24 hour analogue timers so the box can be set to only come on at certain times such as 7am - 9pm because the pump is directly under one of our bedrooms.

 

When the pump activates via a float switch, there's another timer to set how long it will pump for. Adjustable from 5 to 30 seconds.

 

It just uses a timing circuit & relay based on a 555 timer IC.


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  # 1840641 7-Aug-2017 16:11
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In the process of designing a house, just finishing off some of the design/fittings side of things before detailed drawings.

 

Click to make bigger

 

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Fat bottom Trump
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  # 1840654 7-Aug-2017 16:51
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Very impressive. I mean, how many people actually design their own house, down to the finest details?

 

 





I reject your reality and substitute my own. - Adam Savage
 


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  # 1841098 8-Aug-2017 13:33
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mdf:

 

Quoting myself from 11 May (about 3 months ago):

 

I need to do some work to tidy up my table saw. I'd like to build a sled for it. Might use it more then.

 

Pretty much all my discretionary time since then has been working on that very project.

 

My 1950 Tanner table saw, inherited from my grandpa via both my dad and uncle. Neither of the latter two did any upkeep on it, so this was the state I received it in (yes, I had already started pulling it apart when I remembered I should take a photo):

 

 

Nice job!.

 

Just a thought on the jackup - wouldn't it a bit wobbly only having one contact point underneath ?

 

I'd be thinking of a tough inflatable bag, perhaps powered by a 12v blower, and a foot-operated release valve.

 

Hmm, looked the prices of air jacks - bit OTT, and expensive.

 

But food for thought ..

 

 

 

 





My thoughts are no longer my own and is probably representative of our media-controlled government


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  # 1841294 8-Aug-2017 16:44
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Making ten of these and mounting them in a super cheap flush LED downlight housing...

 

https://youtu.be/jpjfVc-9IrQ

 

Cheers - N

 

 





--

 

Please note all comments are the product of my own brain and don't necessarily represent the position or opinions of my employer, previous employers, colleagues, friends or pets.




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  # 1841313 8-Aug-2017 17:04
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I'm thinking about changing the title of this thread to perhaps remove the word 'current'. What do you guys think?


Stu

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  # 1841323 8-Aug-2017 17:26
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That'd work





Keep calm, and carry on posting.

 

 

 

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