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mdf

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  Reply # 2060147 21-Jul-2018 20:21
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kobiak:

 

Hi guys,

 

I wonder if anyone knows the best place to purchase Galvanised Pipes (20mm - 400mm) + Flanges. Or my best option is bunnings? 

 

I'm planning to do 

 

but single level as TV stand for now. maybe later add more levels on the side/s.

 

 

I was looking at a steel framed desk project a while back (never got around to actually doing it). I found it really hard to plan out as I didn't know the range of fittings. Eventually found this site (supplier is in Auckland, despite the screwy domain name). Has everything including prices online:

 

https://edgesmith.global/brands/masterklamp.html

 

 


mdf

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  Reply # 2060148 21-Jul-2018 20:28
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Reversing camera purchased: 3 June 2016.

 

Reversing camera *finally* installed: 21 July 2018:

 


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  Reply # 2060154 21-Jul-2018 20:45
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mdf:

 

Reversing camera purchased: 3 June 2016.

 

Reversing camera *finally* installed: 21 July 2018:

 

I bought a wireless sender as a stopgap measure till I could be bothered doing the interior pulling out. Its still what I use with its statticy breaking up crap picture. One day I might have the carpets up. Till then.





Richard rich.ms



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Reply # 2061814 24-Jul-2018 17:06
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Not a DIY project per se, but perhaps a helpful tip for others.

 

There are quite a lot of little jobs to do in our house's crawlspace (such as filling in little gaps around the insulation, rounding off sharp edges, fixing leaks). As a reminder to do these jobs and their exact location, I've attached a clothes peg on or next to the thing that needs some attention.


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  Reply # 2061833 24-Jul-2018 18:08
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Being short on transistors yesterday for one of my very simple robust circuits, drove to JayCar and bought all they had in stock. They looked like fake, and no surprise they were fake! JayCar seems to do not care of who their suppliers are and sell rubbish. Wasted few hours in total. Very disappointing.

 





Toyota / Lexus Hybrid and EV Battery Expert Battery Test & Repair 

 

 


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  Reply # 2061871 24-Jul-2018 18:22
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Fake as in not the advertised brand? or fake as in not really transistors?




neb

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  Reply # 2061883 24-Jul-2018 18:47
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RUKI:

Being short on transistors yesterday for one of my very simple robust circuits, drove to JayCar and bought all they had in stock. They looked like fake, and no surprise they were fake! JayCar seems to do not care of who their suppliers are and sell rubbish. Wasted few hours in total. Very disappointing.

 

 

That's because you're using those damn Yankee 2N22222221/2 things, if you used good British BC548's like the rest of us you'd be OK.

 


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  Reply # 2062298 25-Jul-2018 13:53
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RUKI:

 

Being short on transistors yesterday for one of my very simple robust circuits, drove to JayCar and bought all they had in stock. They looked like fake, and no surprise they were fake! JayCar seems to do not care of who their suppliers are and sell rubbish. Wasted few hours in total. Very disappointing.

 

 

Sure it wasnt some random C-B-E pin arrangement ? Or was it a case of no PN junction on any arrangement of pins ?

 

Can be quite a crapshoot figuring out which pin arrangement one ends up with.

 

 





My thoughts are no longer my own and is probably representative of our media-controlled government




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  Reply # 2072037 12-Aug-2018 14:12
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Update on my drainage project:

 

Click to see full size

 

Another drain next to our clothesline path.

 

Click to see full size

 

More 90 mm PVC pipe I'm going to install complete with junctions for more drains.


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  Reply # 2072552 13-Aug-2018 11:01
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I need to install drainage in our front lawn.

 

Unfortunately the nearest drain sump is in the driveway, separated from the lawn by 1.2m of concrete.  I plan to span this distance with PVC pipe

 

I'd appreciate some feedback on my plan for this: -

 

1) Set up a string line down the centre of the lawn to the centre of the sump;

 

2) Have the area professionally checked for cables, pipes etc;

 

3) Dig a nice straight trench along the centre of the lawn to the edge of the concrete;

 

4) Use a digging bar and water blaster to bore under concrete to the sump.

 

5) Use a 2.4m straight edge along the trench as a reference to check my tunnelling angle.

 

Something I'm really struggling with is how I can ensure a good seal when connecting the PVC pipe to the sump.

 

 





Mike



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  Reply # 2072560 13-Aug-2018 11:15
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When I started off with my drainage around our house, I purchased a hole saw that was as close to the outside diameter of the 90 mm storm water pipe as I could find (at Bunnings). The one I got is about 2 mm bigger than the pipe.

 

You should be able to seal the gap between your driveway sump and the pipe with some kind of liquid sealant.


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  Reply # 2072562 13-Aug-2018 11:22
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MikeAqua:

 

I need to install drainage in our front lawn.

 

Unfortunately the nearest drain sump is in the driveway, separated from the lawn by 1.2m of concrete.  I plan to span this distance with PVC pipe

 

I'd appreciate some feedback on my plan for this: -

 

1) Set up a string line down the centre of the lawn to the centre of the sump;

 

2) Have the area professionally checked for cables, pipes etc;

 

3) Dig a nice straight trench along the centre of the lawn to the edge of the concrete;

 

4) Use a digging bar and water blaster to bore under concrete to the sump.

 

5) Use a 2.4m straight edge along the trench as a reference to check my tunnelling angle.

 

Something I'm really struggling with is how I can ensure a good seal when connecting the PVC pipe to the sump.

 

 

 

 

Sounds like a tricky one!

 

If it's a plastic sump, then you can use a 'wallace seal' (google it) and simply force the pipe into the seal.

 

Tunneling for a large (say 90mm) pipe without undermining the concrete will be challenging. You could try and get a large diameter (100mm ID?) steel pipe that you can and use it as a sleeve - driving it horizontally with a sledge hammer. Flush out the insides with the water blaster, then fit 90mm PVC inside with Wallace Seal at the sump end. 

 

Further to the steel sleeve idea, you could use a smaller bore PVC pipe (thus smaller bore steel sleeve) and have a sump in the lawn on the edge of the driveway to convert between this and the rest of your lawn drainage. This sump will handle any momentary backlog, as generally a 90mm pipe won't be completely full for very long. 

 

 


mdf

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  Reply # 2072578 13-Aug-2018 11:56
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nickb800: Tunneling for a large (say 90mm) pipe without undermining the concrete will be challenging.

 

+1 to this. If you're concrete was laid properly, you will have a compacted aggregate base under it and it will be a stone cold b*****d to get though. It took me a couple of hours and plenty of effing and jeffing to tunnel under  a 600mm span, and I was only trying to get a 20mm electrical conduit under it.

 

How deep under the concrete are you aiming to dig? Deeper is actually potentially easier, though you need to allow plenty of space behind and under to swing your bar.

 

It will be much easier (and probably quicker and more stable) to cut with a diamond saw or concrete cutter, dig out and backfill with pea metal and patch with concrete. Though it will look patched and won't be aesthetic if the concrete is "nice" (or even acceptable). I did this a while ago, and with the benefit of hindsight, I should have filled the cut gap with drainage grate or something. I don't think it would have looked as bad as obviously patched concrete.


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  Reply # 2072584 13-Aug-2018 12:20
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mdf:

 

How deep under the concrete are you aiming to dig? Deeper is actually potentially easier, though you need to allow plenty of space behind and under to swing your bar.

 

 

I'm not sure how deep yet.  I need to do some measurements of the sump and figure out the falls etc.

 

I'll be digging about an 8 metre trench down the middle of the lawn for a PVC backbone to run drainage laterals off.  Plenty of room to swing a bar, a 3m bar on a swing frame would probably do the trick.

 

There is a generous layer of highly compacted aggregate, under the house and driveway so digging is bound to be a chore how ever I go about it.  On the plus side, the concrete (steel mesh reinforced) should be stable. 

 

I could get someone in to mechanically bore under the drive to the sump.   I like the idea of ramming in a steel sleeve and running a PVC pipe through it.  The steel would support the soil etc.

 

mdf:

 

It will be much easier (and probably quicker and more stable) to cut with a diamond saw or concrete cutter, dig out and backfill with pea metal and patch with concrete.

 

 

The concrete is exposed aggregate so cutting and patching wouldn't be aesthetically acceptable, we'd be replacing an entire panel and even then it probably wouldn't match ... I'd rather put up with a boggy front lawn.





Mike

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  Reply # 2072640 13-Aug-2018 12:40
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Not sure why you need to seal it? Your inlet into the sump should be higher than the sump outlet so as long as your pipe runs down through the wall of the sump, the water is just going to fall out into the sump. 


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