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#2177304 12-Feb-2019 19:49

Fred99:

and for some reason my edging trowel vanished (I still haven't found it)...

Currently buried under a couple of tonnes of concrete?

Fred99

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#2177932 13-Feb-2019 20:40

mdf:
Fred99:

and for some reason my edging trowel vanished (I still haven't found it)...

Currently buried under a couple of tonnes of concrete?

I don't think so, but.

My father didn't look after his teef so well when a young fella and wore a top plate. This archaeological artifact has been embedded in a concrete slab floor of a garage in Palmerston North since about 1968.

DarthKermit

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#2201908 19-Mar-2019 18:00

Another DIY addition to my man cave:

I re-purposed a 12 volt fan from a car radiator to be an overhead cooling fan in my shed. I've got a 12 volt transformer to supply the power to it. It can be pivoted around and I put two screws in to prevent it from being pivoted too far around and hitting the walls. It's a little bit noisy, but provides a nice cool breeze when I'm working in there.

Next project is to rig up an old kitchen extractor fan to suck air out of the shed.

Coil

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#2201909 19-Mar-2019 18:01

DarthKermit:

Another DIY addition to my man cave:

I re-purposed a 12 volt fan from a car radiator to be an overhead cooling fan in my shed. I've got a 12 volt transformer to supply the power to it. It can be pivoted around and I put two screws in to prevent it from being pivoted too far around and hitting the walls. It's a little bit noisy, but provides a nice cool breeze when I'm working in there.

Next project is to rig up an old kitchen extractor fan to suck air out of the shed.

If you get a blower motor controller from an older BMW it can handle the current from that fan and you can have a 5 speed fan ;)

k1w1k1d

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#2201971 19-Mar-2019 19:46

I have just made a router top for my old Triton MK3 table saw. The router top uses the original mounts, so it is a simple job to remove it and refit the saw.

Top is made of two sheets of 18mm MDF glued and screwed together. Solid and rather heavy!

Base is 18mm ply with two fixed casters and two locking swivel casters.

Also fitted a vacuum and cyclone underneath to suck up the copious amounts of dust that the router creates.

Just added a couple of feather boards.

RickW

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#2259276 16-Jun-2019 22:44

Firstly don’t try this if your not completely comfortable working with mains voltage.

We have been having issues with our z-wave ir blaster heat pump controller using batteries too quickly and it looked ugly mounted underneath the heat pump. my mission was to find a 5v dc power supply and install it inside the heat pump to power the ir blaster, extend the ir led and install it by the receiver and it worked out amazingly well.

]
The zwave ir blaster has the option of being USB powered so I needed a small 230-5v converter and ended up carefully taking a multi tool to a apple charger.

Soldered wires into the 5v power supply.

5v power supply with USB cable installed into the heat pump termination block.

Sorry but don’t have any pics of the ir blaster installed as it is tucked on top of the evaporator and condenser pipes.

All said and done.

Ge0rge

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#2259285 17-Jun-2019 06:52

While I certainly admire your idea, I can't help but think you've just installed the ultimate "get out of jail free card" for your insurance company to use in the event of a fire.

Bung

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#2259287 17-Jun-2019 07:05

First AFAIK it would have to be the reason that the fire started. How do you imagine that would happen?

sir1963

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#2259289 17-Jun-2019 07:14

Bung: First AFAIK it would have to be the reason that the fire started. How do you imagine that would happen?

Do you have electrical registration ?

RickW

298 posts

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#2259290 17-Jun-2019 07:23

I think the fire risk is pretty minimal.
First, all the terminals are screwed tightly.
Second, the power supply was new but I plugged the it blaster into it for a week and it was always at room air temp and being apple they are meant to be highish quality.
Third, there is no exposed copper wire so no chance of a short.
Fourth, even if there was a short the heatpump is fully earthed and is on its own separate rcd and circuit breaker.

Bung

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#2259292 17-Jun-2019 07:47

sir1963:
Bung: First AFAIK it would have to be the reason that the fire started. How do you imagine that would happen?

Do you have electrical registration ?

No and like a lot of others I'm not an expert on insurance law either.

sir1963

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#2259315 17-Jun-2019 09:37

Bung:
sir1963:

Bung: First AFAIK it would have to be the reason that the fire started. How do you imagine that would happen?

Do you have electrical registration ?

No and like a lot of others I'm not an expert on insurance law either.

From the NZI site

" You are not covered for any loss, damage, cost, expense, prosecution or liability arising from any intentional or reckless act or omission by you or anyone else covered by this policy."

" You must take reasonable care at all times to avoid circumstances that could result in a claim.Your claim will not be covered if you are reckless or grossly irresponsible."

The home owner is allowed to do a certain amount of electrical repairs (like for like), but modifying an appliance I doubt is covered.

elpenguino

3389 posts

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#2274654 11-Jul-2019 15:06

sir1963:

Bung: First AFAIK it would have to be the reason that the fire started. How do you imagine that would happen?

Do you have electrical registration ?

Here's some actual official information, from ECP50.2004

-------

Notwithstanding anything in section 108 of this Act, the owner of any electrical appliance may do any prescribed electrical work, or assist in doing any prescribed electrical work, in relation to that appliance, if–

(a) The appliance is kept principally for the use of that person, or any near relative of that person, or both; and
(b) The appliance is used principally for domestic purposes and not for commercial or industrial purposes; and
(c) The work is within the limits prescribed in regulations made under section 169 of this Act for the purposes of this section; and
(d) The work is carried out in accordance with the requirements of any regulations made under section 169 of this Act; and
(e) The work is carried out in a competent manner; and
(f) While that work is being carried out, the appliance is not connected to a power supply; and
(g) Where required by regulations made under section 169 of this Act, the work is tested and certified by a registered electrical inspector in accordance with regulations made under that section before connection to a power supply.

Section 169 of the Act quoted in ECP50 says:

169. Regulations – (1) The Governor-General may from time to time, by Order in Council, make regulations for all or any of the following purposes:
(20) Prescribing the limits or scope of prescribed electrical work which any of the persons referred to in section 108 (2) of this Act, or any person to whom section 109 or section 110 or section 111 or section 112 of this Act applies, may do or assist to do

The testing document NZS3760 doesn't have any information about testing an appliance repaired by the owner, meaning the document doesn't say testing of an owner's repair is to be done any differently to any other repair.

If done and tested properly you should be able to argue (and win) this one with any insurance company.

YMMV

IANAL etc etc.

Most of the posters in this thread are just like chimpanzees on MDMA, full of feelings of bonhomie, joy, and optimism. Fred99 8/4/21

k1w1k1d

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#2279971 20-Jul-2019 09:44

The H&S Police at work tagged out my 50 year old Dyco drill press as being "unsafe", so I had to take it home. Didn't have a chuck guard or E-Stop switch.

The table isn't very good for woodworking, so I built a top and fence for it. Also mounted it on a cabinet. Fitted castors and had to strengthen the cabinet to take the weight. The drill press is all steel and weighs a ton! Twice the weight of the Chinese one they bought me at work.

First job was making a tray out of 18mm MDF for all my router bits. Table and fence worked great for drilling multiple holes in a line that don't go all the way through the tray.

DarthKermit

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#2311636 6-Sep-2019 10:40

I made a tray for my collection of spade bits, but they slide around on it. So I've cut out some dividers to keep the heads 1 mm apart. I don't have a 32 mm spade bit; I've allocated a space for one in the future:

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