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Mad Scientist
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#1146181 3-Oct-2014 00:18

trying to update the kitchen using mind control jedi power

Fred99

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#1146184 3-Oct-2014 00:33

joker97: trying to update the kitchen using mind control jedi power

Oh please no....!
A kitchen update always requires consultation with her indoors.
While you're battling with how the hell you're going to remove walls, re-route plumbing, wiring, etc etc, you get shown colour charts.
I know it matters - but not right now.

Fred99

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#1153117 13-Oct-2014 20:13

Today I got sign-off from engineer and council on the deck. We (builders and I) missed a detail on the drawing to put a double joist at the edge of diagonally-braced rectangles, so I have had to rip out joist hangers, nogs etc, ready to fit extra timber tomorrow, but no problem, engineer and council are happy with a photo of this when it's done. Plans threw us and the designer out, standard photocopy details to NZS3604 being handed out by architect/designers with strapping detail which simply cannot work in some cases. We didn't put some straps in because it would have been useless. Instead I added some 250 x 12mm coach bolts. Fortunately the engineer agreed with me.
Next door they're building a deck. This is "consent exempt" under CCC special exemptions for EQ repair, ours is just over 3m high, theirs just under. Ours is way overkill (IMO), but theirs is bunged together with nails and only about 4 bolts. Crazy.

mcraenz

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#1154334 15-Oct-2014 12:11

I've just comleted a work bench for a new milling machine...
http://blog.rhysgoodwin.com/

Help me build a better way of doing politics in Aotearoa New Zealand

political.nz

Fred99

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#1170259 6-Nov-2014 19:09

Deck is basically complete. Last work I've done on it has been putting the scotia up around soffits, the hardwood beading between floor and ballustrade and the capping - and because we had to reclad to code with the new linea, we needed 20mm cavity battens. That meant the facings around windows and doors were 20mm further out, and that means the sills and door steps (2 french doors) were too short. So I had to plane off the end of the sills, and epoxy glue a 25mm shaped piece of timber with drip groove under to extend them.

richms

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#1170296 6-Nov-2014 20:27

I thought weatherboard cladding was immune to the cavity spacer requirements?

Richard rich.ms

Fred99

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#1170392 6-Nov-2014 22:45

richms: I thought weatherboard cladding was immune to the cavity spacer requirements?

I don't think so. New building wrap required over framing, 20mm cavity battens. We even had to fit door head flashings - kind of ridiculous as the door heads are only 100mm below those huge eaves, but rules are rules...

Where that linea is, there used to be a 1.5m wide chimney. That fell on the old deck (ka-boom). Fixing the framing in that wall area, the roof, and T&G soffits in that area was a mission. I did all that (under supervision of LBP). Doing the dirty/nasty work yourself saves money - ie fitting that scotia around the entire house which was a tedious and horrible job that my builder wasn't keen on doing.

Bung

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#1170432 7-Nov-2014 06:42

There is a risk matrix, below a certain score you may have been able to direct fix. Timber bevelback weatherboard has more leeway than Linea.

With those eaves and the balustrades it does look as sheltered as they get.

Fred99

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#1170447 7-Nov-2014 08:06

I could have probably direct-fixed it - as a "like for like" maintenance job. However, it butts up against new cladding on the rest of the house (full reclad), it's over a repaired wall which is in a bit of a grey area as to whether repair of this was structural or not, and anyway cavity battens etc are on the designer's plans. There were no building inspections required on the schedule for this part of the job, but the LBP builders wouldn't be happy to do work which clearly didn't meet code.
The builders I have don't like working with linea much either. A bit difficult to cut, it's heavy, despite framing at close centers, it can bow out between boards leaving a gap. Shards of the stuff also seemed to be causing issues jamming nail guns - not helped by the fact that some of the framing was 50YO heart rimu. On new builds or full re-clads, there are cladding sub-contractors who work with the stuff every day. It's also not a lot of fun to paint - the board sucks up the first coat like a sponge - care is needed to not get a patchy effect.

JayADee

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#1170450 7-Nov-2014 08:25

That looks really nice.

Brat

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#1183206 26-Nov-2014 11:26

Wife has me extending our concrete deck with tiles and a brick wall to make a dedicated BBQ area. Had some spare bricks left over from the house build but they're not enough and company stopped making them three years ago. At least the colour is still made; just not the double-height size we used for the house. Finishing that this weekend.

Surrounding that, she wants an arbour, raised to act as seats, that also needs to support a hammock and shade sails. Shade sails are going to be a pain - the soffit is low so will need to attach the bolts on top of the roof with compression washers and seal like crazy.

Also to be done before Xmas is to install a 23m aluminium rail boundary fence - found out that quickcrete corrodes the posts so that is going to make the install more difficult than it needed to be...

And then there's my own pet projects to finish... Ran out of disk space on my current NAS but won the prize at the IRL meeting a few weeks back, so am looking forward to trying that out, once it arrives.

That will be a fair bit of work as I have a HEAP of old home photos and videos to transfer. Will do a write-up about the unit when I get the chance.

Have to tidy up my weatherstation installation - got a LaCrosse WS-2315 weather station that works well - just need to connect it to wview.

Also have to finish my workbench in the garage - the workbench itself is built; just need to add dust extraction and a drawer for gardening tools.

Lots lots of other similar mucky small jobs where the main parts are done and just need to tidy up and finish off the work.

DarthKermit

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#1184332 27-Nov-2014 18:41

After seeing some shoddy UFB installs both in person lately and on the message boards, I decided I'd do my own conduit installation for a future potential UFB install.

Also, we might be getting the front lawn landscaped, so I thought it was a good idea to get in first.

1. I dug down on the inside of our front fence and located the 20 mm green sweep bend that was installed when the UFB pillar was installed on the road side, outside of our fence.

2. I dug a 500 mm deep trench across our front lawn:

With the intention of hammering this galved steel 2" pipe under the rest of the lawn to meet up with the hole at the fence. What a job! I've whacked the pipe probably hundreds of times to advance it along. At this time, I have about one metre left to hammer it through. Once I've met up with the far end, I'll pull the steel pipe back out and thread green telecommunications conduit though the borehole I've made and solvent bond it to the sweep bend.

3. Here's the steel pipe in the trench before I started hammering it into the ground:

4. At the other end, I had this hole cut in our front path a couple of years ago for a future UFB conduit:

5. I have to re-use the steel pipe to make another bore hole under the rest of the lawn and under the path to meet up with the above hole. After the "fun" I've had whacking that pipe through, I think I'll extend the trench right to the path edge so I have less whacking to do. Digging down to 500 mm in dirt/clay is much easier!

More pics to follow as I progress with this job.