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DarthKermit

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  #1243336 20-Feb-2015 22:08
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When I started my home network back in 2011, I had all my cables terminate inside a hall cupboard, and it always looked messy and untidy.

I've finally got around to doing something about it. I've built a custom size network cabinet in the hallway as pictured below. The space I had to work with isn't very wide (only 315 mm) but quite tall (1115 mm) and a full depth of 100 mm. So I took advantage of the height/depth to get the most volume that I could.

It has three double power points to allow for extra gadgets in the future. Right now I've just got a router and an eight way network switch in there.

We have ADSL for broadband, so my master splitter is installed in this cabinet and all the star wiring to 4 phone outlets.

I've drilled some 32 mm holes at the top of the cabinet to allow for extra Cat5e cabling in the future and perhaps to terminate all TV cabling here also.

Presently, all the Cat5e comes in from below as I have a number of runs of this in the crawl space.

Click to see full size


After I had roughly knocked the cabinet sides together, I had to decide what to use as a door. I had thought of using a painting, but couldn't find something of the right size.

As luck would have it, I found this oak mirror for $30 in a second hand shop. It's a bit bigger than the cabinet, but that doesn't matter when the door is closed. The oak looks great now we've stripped most of the awful white paint from it.

Click to see full size




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ubergeeknz
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  #1243337 20-Feb-2015 22:11
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DarthKermit: When I started my home network... most of the awful white paint from it.

Click to see full size


That's pretty slick, nice job

Glassboy
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  #1243338 20-Feb-2015 22:12
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DarthKermit: 

As luck would have it, I found this oak mirror for $30 in a second hand shop. It's a bit bigger than the cabinet, but that doesn't matter when the door is closed. The oak looks great now we've stripped most of the awful white paint from it.



It would look even better with a coat of Danish oil.  I appear to now have an addiction to buying old oak furniture off Trademe and restoring it. 

DarthKermit

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  #1243339 20-Feb-2015 22:20
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And here's a close up of what I've got installed at the bottom of the cabinet:

Click to see full size

I still need to tidy it all up a bit. I'm waiting for some of the putty to harden before I can sand it smooth.

I think I might paint a black line around the exposed edge of the rimu timber, as it got a lot of burn marks when I was cutting it.




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DarthKermit

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  #1243342 20-Feb-2015 22:24
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ubergeeknz:
DarthKermit: When I started my home network... most of the awful white paint from it.



That's pretty slick, nice job


Thanks! smile




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DarthKermit

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  #1243348 20-Feb-2015 22:26
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Glassboy:
DarthKermit: 

As luck would have it, I found this oak mirror for $30 in a second hand shop. It's a bit bigger than the cabinet, but that doesn't matter when the door is closed. The oak looks great now we've stripped most of the awful white paint from it.



It would look even better with a coat of Danish oil.


Danish oil? I'll have a look at getting some. Does the likes of Bunnings sell it?




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Jase2985
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  #1243396 21-Feb-2015 07:09
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yea bunnings will sell it.

Mark
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  #1243780 21-Feb-2015 16:42
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My project for today was remaking the spa cover .. one of my boys jumped on it and split through it.  Yay kids :-(

Not the best job in the world, H3.2 7 layer ply on top, 40mm polystyrene glued to that and then all wrapped in plastic with the edges hot glued.  But should last a bit till I save some pennies to get it redone properly.
Took me 3 hours to do and I got to buy a circular saw .. and still have my fingers!




chevrolux
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  #1243829 21-Feb-2015 18:17
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@Darth - What are those steel billet things around the cables? Just for labelling? And please please get rid of that old school AMP terminal and swap it for a Krone module lol.

DarthKermit

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  #1243837 21-Feb-2015 18:36
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chevrolux: @Darth - What are those steel billet things around the cables? Just for labelling? And please please get rid of that old school AMP terminal and swap it for a Krone module lol.


Yeah, they're just metal tubes that I've glued in place to attach labels onto.

The AMP terminal thingymabob was just something I had lying around in my box of junk. What advantage is a Krone module?




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chevrolux
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  #1243948 21-Feb-2015 22:30
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DarthKermit:
chevrolux: @Darth - What are those steel billet things around the cables? Just for labelling? And please please get rid of that old school AMP terminal and swap it for a Krone module lol.


Yeah, they're just metal tubes that I've glued in place to attach labels onto.

The AMP terminal thingymabob was just something I had lying around in my box of junk. What advantage is a Krone module?


A Krone tool is actually affordable lol. Na the terminal is fine, just old. There are lots and lots around that have been wrecked by flat bladed screwdrivers or people have soldered directly on to the tags.

DarthKermit

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  #1243956 21-Feb-2015 23:18
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chevrolux: A Krone tool is actually affordable lol. Na the terminal is fine, just old. There are lots and lots around that have been wrecked by flat bladed screwdrivers or people have soldered directly on to the tags.


I got me a Krone tool. You can see it in the lower right corner of this pic, sitting on the trolley:
Click to see full size

laughing




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DarthKermit

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  #1244007 22-Feb-2015 09:40
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I don't have an RJ45 crimping tool however. frown

I'm going to need one to finish my project.




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DarthKermit

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  #1279878 9-Apr-2015 17:57
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It's April already. Must be time to post about another project...

I purchased a sump pump in approx 2011.
Click to see full size

After four years, it has quite a bit of rust on the cast iron body.

The plastic intake grille and a stainless steel plate in front of the impeller are held in place by three stainless steel machine screws apiece. Over time, these have corroded quite badly despite me removing them periodically and cleaning the threads and greasing them.

I took the pump out of its hole the other day to clean it up and I could barely get any of the screws out. I had to spray them with CRC and tap on the pump body with a pin punch to remove them.

The shorter three screws that hold the inner plate in place wouldn't unscrew even with the above treatments. I used vice grips to remove them carefully (hoping that none would snap off in the pump body). Luckily for me, I got all three out without any breakage.

However, as you can see in the pic, the screws are stuffed.
Click to see full size

I cleaned out the six internal threads in the pump body with a bottoming tap and went to EDL fasteners for some new machine screws.
I cut the heads off of all six screws, filed and cleaned the threads with a die nut then used loctite to bind them into the pump body.
Click to see full size

Now when I reassemble it, there are six stainless nuts holding the parts in place.
I also replaced the Philips head machine screw that holds the impeller on with a bolt. That way there are no crevices for muck to fill.

I attached a piece of aluminum rod as a sacrificial anode onto the side of the pump a year or two ago.
The screw that I'd used to attach it was rusted solid.
After removing it, I used the same method as above to reattach it to the pump.
Click to see full size

The corrosion on the ali rod shows that it's doing what I intended it to.




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MikeAqua
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  #1284504 15-Apr-2015 10:10
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Good idea with the alloy.  Zinc works well as an anode too.




Mike


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