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135 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1766703 18-Apr-2017 13:32
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Hi,

That sounds like an ideal use case.

There wasn't actually a fault with the units as such. It was more that they were being used in ways not intended (over 2400 watts, and/or interesting ways of being held in particular positions).

There isn't a way of telling, they all look the same.

Some minor changes have been made to the internals to help it deal with both scenarios.

Baby Get Shaky!
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Uber Geek
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  Reply # 1766927 18-Apr-2017 18:08
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CokemonZ: Hi,

That sounds like an ideal use case.

There wasn't actually a fault with the units as such. It was more that they were being used in ways not intended (over 2400 watts, and/or interesting ways of being held in particular positions).

There isn't a way of telling, they all look the same.

Some minor changes have been made to the internals to help it deal with both scenarios.

 

Champion, thanks for the response.


 
 
 
 


553 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1766964 18-Apr-2017 19:39
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CokemonZ: Hi,

That sounds like an ideal use case.

There wasn't actually a fault with the units as such. It was more that they were being used in ways not intended (over 2400 watts, and/or interesting ways of being held in particular positions).

There isn't a way of telling, they all look the same.

Some minor changes have been made to the internals to help it deal with both scenarios.

 

 

 

What are those changes out of curiosity?

 

 

 

I have one the heater mate units that has failed - was plugged directly into its own wall socket and was only running an eco panel heater (75w)


135 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1767062 19-Apr-2017 08:09
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illicit:

CokemonZ: Hi,

That sounds like an ideal use case.

There wasn't actually a fault with the units as such. It was more that they were being used in ways not intended (over 2400 watts, and/or interesting ways of being held in particular positions).

There isn't a way of telling, they all look the same.

Some minor changes have been made to the internals to help it deal with both scenarios.


 


What are those changes out of curiosity?


 


I have one the heater mate units that has failed - was plugged directly into its own wall socket and was only running an eco panel heater (75w)



Try plugging it into the wall for an hour and see if that brings it back to life.

The changes were largely to the plug socket, improving the way it grips the plug in high strain situations.

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Geek


  Reply # 1801425 15-Jun-2017 12:00
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Are these things safe yet? Thinking of buying one soon


27 posts

Geek
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  Reply # 1802086 16-Jun-2017 12:12
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actioncam:

 

Are these things safe yet? Thinking of buying one soon

 

 

I've been using one for a few months and haven't noticed any issues with it overheating. I plug it straight into the wall socket. It's quite bulky which makes it hard to fit any other plugs in to surrounding plugs. We also found its temperature readings could be a bit variable (lower than the actual temperature by a degree or two), so I'd recommend keeping another thermometer in the room to keep an eye on it.


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  Reply # 1802842 17-Jun-2017 22:50
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@timmmay (or anyone else on here) if you are going to throw out your heatermate, could you send it to me instead. Im tempted to do a teardown on one, and see exactly what is inside it. Im mainly interested to see how it switches the current to the heater, Is the relay or other switching device able to easily carry the full current? Or it it running right at it's limit? Even if the heatermate has failed I would still be interested.

 

As for some heaters drawing too much power, The no load voltage at my switchboard often rises to 243V when there isn't much grid demand. So virtually every resistance load in my house will draw slightly too much power.

 

Ideally with a device like this you would build it to handle 15A or 20A, despite only giving it an official rating of 10A. Just to give it plenty of headroom in an overload situation. Those overload cutouts in powerboards are not much use either. As they are thermal based, and will easily take an hour or more to trip with a 10% overload.

 

Another issue (but more difficult to solve) is that you are allowed to use 1mm2 flex on appliances drawing up to 10A. Except that 1mm2 gets quite warm if you put 10A through it continuously. Which means plugs and sockets often start getting a little warm. If you then get damaged pins or contacts on plugs or sockets, you then have a high risk of thermal runaway when using them at full load continuously. Yet the same dodgy plugs and sockets will often last for years on low current draw devices, or devices with low duty cycle (like most power tools)

 

I have also opened up failed power boards. And found one that had an overload circuit breaker that was only rated to 110V. Despite it being in a power board that was designed for 230V.






602 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1802849 17-Jun-2017 23:34
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I bought mine from a New Zealand supplier for about $59 each two years ago. I have a few of them with 2000 Watt convection heaters to keep the chill off house wide, and they are awesome. The heatpump is set higher so I get more heat for my buck when the room is over 16.

 

They drop 1 degree before they kick back in, but they can also be used to switch on a fan when it gets to hot.

 

As for timer, get an HPM thin digital timer from Mitre 10, and put it after the heater mate not before it. The heater mate reverts to cool mode when it loses power for to long. So you're better to get a timer that has a good internal battery and put it after the heater mate.My HPM never losses its settings so I think it's rechargeable.

 

Or, you just buy a heater with thermostat and timer and the ultimate, a remote control :)

 

Ahh winter time.... I hate energy saving light bulbs, electricity burning bulbs help distribute some heat around the house :)

 

 


602 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1802850 17-Jun-2017 23:38
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dantiberian:

 

actioncam:

 

Are these things safe yet? Thinking of buying one soon

 

 

I've been using one for a few months and haven't noticed any issues with it overheating. I plug it straight into the wall socket. It's quite bulky which makes it hard to fit any other plugs in to surrounding plugs. We also found its temperature readings could be a bit variable (lower than the actual temperature by a degree or two), so I'd recommend keeping another thermometer in the room to keep an eye on it.

 

 

 

 

Mine are pretty accurate. There's a good 3-5 degrees difference at head height to power point height in some rooms. I just make sure not to load it right up to 2400 Watts too so there isn't to much warmth coming from the plug pings. I use 2000 Watt quiet convection heaters.


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  Reply # 1802853 18-Jun-2017 06:51
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I haven't used mine in a while, because of the warnings on here. I'll keep hold of it though, I'll use it for something sooner or later.





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135 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1803651 19-Jun-2017 20:32
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Hi Guys,

 

 

 

Still doing heatermates, and still doing free shipping for geekzoners - just enter geekzone at checkout on www.cleverhome.co.nz

 

One comment to make @kiwirock you said you were only running heaters at 2000watt. That's a great call. I think a lot of people don't realise that for a normal ~8sqm bedroom a 1000watt heater is enough to keep it warm, much more than that is overkill.

 

Speaking from personal experience, in a 70's barely insulated house in my kids bedrooms I have cheap warehouse oil fins - the 1500 watt 7 fin versions. Even then I only use one element, and it keeps them warm enough at 18 degrees. Both with heatermates obviously!


602 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 1803738 20-Jun-2017 02:30
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CokemonZ:

 

Hi Guys,

 

 

 

Still doing heatermates, and still doing free shipping for geekzoners - just enter geekzone at checkout on www.cleverhome.co.nz

 

One comment to make @kiwirock you said you were only running heaters at 2000watt. That's a great call. I think a lot of people don't realise that for a normal ~8sqm bedroom a 1000watt heater is enough to keep it warm, much more than that is overkill.

 

Speaking from personal experience, in a 70's barely insulated house in my kids bedrooms I have cheap warehouse oil fins - the 1500 watt 7 fin versions. Even then I only use one element, and it keeps them warm enough at 18 degrees. Both with heatermates obviously!

 

 

 

 

Yeah come to think of it I didn't realise they aren't on full anyway. They are both currently set to 1250 Watts because they are on a 20 amp loop circuit with a few other devices. It's is enough to keep the rooms at 16-17 degrees when the main source of heat is off.

 

I think it was you I purchased them through on TradeMe two years ago. 


135 posts

Master Geek
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  Reply # 1804137 20-Jun-2017 15:48
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Good stuff - thanks for the business!


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