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Topic # 150920 7-Aug-2014 19:54
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Has anyone had experience selling these things to scrap metal buyers in Auckland?

If so, it is worth the hassle or should I simply let the tradie take it away?


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  Reply # 1104344 7-Aug-2014 20:10
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Not sure about Auckland or garage doors, but I have 'walked up' to a few different scrap dealers and they weren't funny about me not being a tradie. 

This price list might give you an idea on what its worth (if you can estimate its weight)
http://www.metalcorp.co.nz/pricelist.php



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  Reply # 1104351 7-Aug-2014 20:17
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Thanks for that. How heavy would a double garage door be, approximately? 200kg?

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  Reply # 1104359 7-Aug-2014 20:21
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is it busted? I had a couple of people interested in my working but crap one when it was gonna come out.




Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 1104362 7-Aug-2014 20:25
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I would try TradeMe with the reserve as the scrap value.  That way someone else will take it away but you still get the cash.  Could be used as the roof of a chook cage or similar.

What location?




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  Reply # 1104363 7-Aug-2014 20:26
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heavenlywild: Thanks for that. How heavy would a double garage door be, approximately? 200kg?


Less than half of that.
If the tradesman is taking it away, then it's probably going to be dumped at a council recycling depot.
A few years ago when aluminium prices were high - it was worth dropping aluminium skinned doors off at scrap metal merchants, waiting around, filling out forms etc., for a few dollars, but at the moment it's not worth the hassle.



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  Reply # 1104364 7-Aug-2014 20:26
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Yeah, a good one, abeit it has changed shape slightly so it is not 100% flat. That is why I am looking to upgrade. It is a one piece-r.



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  Reply # 1104365 7-Aug-2014 20:28
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Dynamic: I would try TradeMe with the reserve as the scrap value.  That way someone else will take it away but you still get the cash.  Could be used as the roof of a chook cage or similar.

What location?


Auckland. Yeah, just wondering whether it is even worth the hassle of that. 

If it is 100kg only, then I am only looking at $35 at the scrap metal place, which is not worth the time I suppose. With TradeMe, it is the waiting game and being a big sheet of a door it isn't the easiest to keep around :)

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  Reply # 1104370 7-Aug-2014 20:33
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Chuck me the dimensions and suburb if you have them handy and a photo if easy.  Will ask the inlaws as they had discussed this idea a few months ago.




"4 wheels move the body.  2 wheels move the soul."

“Don't believe anything you read on the net. Except this. Well, including this, I suppose.” Douglas Adams



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  Reply # 1104376 7-Aug-2014 20:36
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Dynamic: Chuck me the dimensions and suburb if you have them handy and a photo if easy.  Will ask the inlaws as they had discussed this idea a few months ago.


 

Will do mate. I will take a photo tomorrow morning and send through it through.

PM-ed you with my details.



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  Reply # 1104379 7-Aug-2014 20:41
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heavenlywild: Yeah, a good one, abeit it has changed shape slightly so it is not 100% flat. That is why I am looking to upgrade. It is a one piece-r.


You realise that they can be straightened?
Before stumping up with money for a new door, perhaps get someone to look at it.
If it is stuffed, then consider replacing it with a sectional door rather than another tilt door.  A bit more expensive, but you should be able to user the same auto opener unit.  They seal better than tilt doors and generally cause fewer problems (but when they do have problems are not so easily DIY as tilt doors).

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  Reply # 1104382 7-Aug-2014 20:44
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Im changing my double tilter for a single width sectional with the rest of the gap becoming more wall for doing useful things with like putting shelves on. And pulling up half the slab infront to make space for getting small trucks onto the lawn.

If someone on the shore is keen on the old tilting door sometime in the next few months, let me know.




Richard rich.ms



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  Reply # 1104383 7-Aug-2014 20:44
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I can confirm it is 2.18m high x 4.85m wide.



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  Reply # 1104401 7-Aug-2014 20:47
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Fred99:
heavenlywild: Yeah, a good one, abeit it has changed shape slightly so it is not 100% flat. That is why I am looking to upgrade. It is a one piece-r.


You realise that they can be straightened?
Before stumping up with money for a new door, perhaps get someone to look at it.
If it is stuffed, then consider replacing it with a sectional door rather than another tilt door.  A bit more expensive, but you should be able to user the same auto opener unit.  They seal better than tilt doors and generally cause fewer problems (but when they do have problems are not so easily DIY as tilt doors).


What I want to achieve out of this is to remove the old school way of using exposed springs on both sides. Fairly dangerous as one did snap off last night.

Yes, definitely. The replacement door will be sectional for sure.

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  Reply # 1104407 7-Aug-2014 21:02
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heavenlywild:

What I want to achieve out of this is to remove the old school way of using exposed springs on both sides. Fairly dangerous as one did snap off last night.



Yup - they can do some damage all right when they snap.  More recent "hooks" on the bottom bracket are "pig tail", and the bolt on the power arm has a washer - larger diameter than the spring loop - so if it snaps - then it won't go flying.
Worst IMO are double springs each side for heavy tilt doors.
If you get sectional, consider insulated panel, and "no finger jam" sections.  If you've accidentally jammed your fingers between panels on a sectional door when closing it manually from outside, you'll understand the problem.



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  Reply # 1104410 7-Aug-2014 21:07
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Fred99:
heavenlywild:

What I want to achieve out of this is to remove the old school way of using exposed springs on both sides. Fairly dangerous as one did snap off last night.



Yup - they can do some damage all right when they snap.  More recent "hooks" on the bottom bracket are "pig tail", and the bolt on the power arm has a washer - larger diameter than the spring loop - so if it snaps - then it won't go flying.
Worst IMO are double springs each side for heavy tilt doors.
If you get sectional, consider insulated panel, and "no finger jam" sections.  If you've accidentally jammed your fingers between panels on a sectional door when closing it manually from outside, you'll understand the problem.


Thanks for your advice mate - will take heed.

 

Any chance you know what price change I can expect for a sectional - metal and wood? At least for a starting price, including the motor of course?

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