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# 1243701 21-Feb-2015 15:03
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Bung:
richms: That is from the era when 1.5mm cable was able to be rated at 15 amps, so it may be the thin stuff. As you have fuses you cant just add more to the circuit even on the sly without doing the RCD, as fuses always had limits on the number of sockets.

Not sure on the quality of those circuit breakers, they are quite vintage.


Complete with spider web seal :-D

Note powerpoints 2 × 20A breaker, 2 × 10A fuses 20A fuse

 

My distribution board looks just like that, minus the spider webs... Not sure what the "heater" breakers would be, you might have some fixed wall heaters so less likely to have overloads by people plugging in extra ones anyway.

 

 

I just ran a new cable to a new security light, and wghile I had the sparkie here connecting it we changed some of the fuses to some old 15A breakers we found lying around at work — its a 60s house but lucky the power points are on 2.5mm cable. Problem for you is that you will be quite keen to NOT blow any fuses whenever a circuit gets overloaded, so I would say the single power outlet gives you the chance to prevent people plugging in too much stuff to the same circuit as your TV, since its so much easier to reset the power board's breaker than to pull thoses fuses out and replace fusewire.

 

 

I would suggest moving the modem and any other gear you don't want to cut out randomly onto a UPS, probably next to your main computer. Run a network cable from the new modem location to your TV and anything else that can't live next to the modem. Ideally you would check that you have a master splitter installed to create a dedicated ADSL outlet somewhere within reach of the modem, and you can move this ADSL outlet just by running some Cat5e cable, perhaps under house or through the ceiling.

 

 

 

 

 

The modem is on the "bedroom1" outlet because its sharing UPS with the computer so the broadband is just extended to the bedroom, but I could also put the modem in that cupboard where the phone wire comes in.

 

Niel: Nunz, get a UPS.

 

 

I have not done it yet, but my "server" gear can all run off 12V so I want to hook it up directly to the battery of my UPS (yes, will be fused and have a low voltage cut-out initiated by software). The "server" is an Atom processor with a 12V power adapter, the modem/router runs off 12V, the gigabit switch runs off 12V, the USB media storage drive runs off 12V, and the Ethernet backup storage runs off 12V. The monitor needs mains, but internally runs off 12V so easily modified.

 

I wish all UPSes had a regulated 12VDC outlet ready to plug a modem into!




Qualified in business, certified in fibre, stuck in copper, have to keep going  ^_^

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  # 1243903 21-Feb-2015 20:11

Recheck those wire sizes in your 1960s house. As sometimes they would run 2.5mm from the switchboard to the first power point. And then run 1.5mm from the first to the second. Also I wouldn't trust those circuit breakers installed in power boards. As they are usually "thermal only" type. If they have similar specs to the ones that Jaycar sell. They will trip in less than 1 hour at 15A. And will trip in 4 to 30 seconds at 20A. Have also smashed open a failed power board. And found that it's breaker was only rated to 120V.





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