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6 posts

Wannabe Geek
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  # 1325031 15-Jun-2015 14:49
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Thank you for the encouragement ubergeeknz and linw. Haha I'm afraid I haven't managed to send anything up in smoke yet, so yes I will have to keep trying! :p But I have made a chip or two get very hot however, so I'm clearly well on my way.
Yes linw, it seems like a great place be, I'm glad I came across it.

1759 posts

Uber Geek
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  # 1325936 16-Jun-2015 17:15
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Lockhart:
These are the kits here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Style-Audio-Power-Amplifier-DIY-Kit-Components-OCL-18W-x-2-BTL-36W-TDA2030A/32298286272.html

Again, thank you all!


Awesome looking kits - an excellent kit of parts for $5.00US, including PCB.

As you have found, the biggest cost is the transformer for the current rating you require. You could also try a toroidal transformer - they are supposed to emit less EMF, making a "quieter" amp. Something like
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Power-Products-Electrical/Power-Conversion-%26-Transformation/AC-AC-Transformers/12V-0-12V-20VA-Toroidal-Transformer---Low-Profile/p/MT2084

TDA2030's also make great H-bridge drivers for Stepper and Brush motors :-)




My thoughts are no longer my own and is probably representative of our media-controlled government


 
 
 
 


22156 posts

Uber Geek
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  # 1325937 16-Jun-2015 17:21
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another option is to get 2 old halogen light transformers. 12v 50-100w and people are giving them away when swapping to led




Richard rich.ms

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Uber Geek
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  # 1326886 17-Jun-2015 23:08
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richms: another option is to get 2 old halogen light transformers. 12v 50-100w and people are giving them away when swapping to led


If you are going to do this, You can only use magnetic (wirewound) type halogen transformers. Because electronic type ones output very high frequency AC. And have a minimum current draw required to work. This will cause lots of havoc with audio circuits.





2 posts

Wannabe Geek


  # 1333803 30-Jun-2015 03:56
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LockHart, the schematic you used earlier for the transformer was a correct one. All you need to do is to tap the correct potential difference from these. First 12V would be from terminals 0V and 12V and your second supply would be from 12V and 24V with your 12V being used as ground. Please note that these supplies will have to be kept isolated and should not be used in a single circuit.

Regards,
Jack Perez



6 posts

Wannabe Geek
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  # 1334315 30-Jun-2015 16:47
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SepticSceptic:

Awesome looking kits - an excellent kit of parts for $5.00US, including PCB.

As you have found, the biggest cost is the transformer for the current rating you require. You could also try a toroidal transformer - they are supposed to emit less EMF, making a "quieter" amp. Something like
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Power-Products-Electrical/Power-Conversion-%26-Transformation/AC-AC-Transformers/12V-0-12V-20VA-Toroidal-Transformer---Low-Profile/p/MT2084

TDA2030's also make great H-bridge drivers for Stepper and Brush motors :-)



Thank you for your reply! Yeah, it's amazing what you can get now, and how little it all costs. Sadly I wasn't able to properly test it, so I can't say how well they work, but I have read good reviews. It's just a shame the power requirements are so awkward.

And yes, I did look at those. That's probably what I'll do if I ever get back to trying to use one of these amps for something.

Oh really? That's interesting to know, might come in handy one day.


richms: another option is to get 2 old halogen light transformers. 12v 50-100w and people are giving them away when swapping to led


And

Aredwood:

If you are going to do this, You can only use magnetic (wirewound) type halogen transformers. Because electronic type ones output very high frequency AC. And have a minimum current draw required to work. This will cause lots of havoc with audio circuits.


Thank you both for the information! I'll certainly look into that at some point.

jackperez: LockHart, the schematic you used earlier for the transformer was a correct one. All you need to do is to tap the correct potential difference from these. First 12V would be from terminals 0V and 12V and your second supply would be from 12V and 24V with your 12V being used as ground. Please note that these supplies will have to be kept isolated and should not be used in a single circuit.

Regards,
Jack Perez


Thank you, yes that's what I've come to understand. Unfortunately, as others have pointed out / suspected, the transformer wasn't able to output high enough amperage / current to properly run the amplifier.
As far as keeping the supplies isolated, I think the board does do this? It passes them into a bridge rectifier to (apparently) stabilize it into two DC voltages, positive and negative. I don't fully understand all of that, but I presume it's okay haha!

Anyway, thank you all for taking the time to comment, I really appreciate it.

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