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  # 1329834 23-Jun-2015 12:18
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joker97: to be honest, i am not sure if double glazing actually does much to retain heat when the rest of the house is leaking heat. yes, if the walls, floor, joinery, roof are all well insulated then going from single to double glaze will make a world of difference, like putting a cap on a bottle. not sure ... i guess you will tell us next year?


First plug the really obvious holes - gaps under doors etc.

Then Insulate Roof,
then floor (if possible)
then windows/glass 

Unfortunately Windows/Glass cost eleventy billion dollars.

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  # 1329853 23-Jun-2015 12:59
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Re alternative to DG @ $$$$$ cost, try pelmets. They stop hot air descending from the roof between the curtains and glass and so being cooled.


Also as most villa corridors narrow to separate public from private area, we hang a ornate curtain across, which is very effective.

 
 
 
 




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  # 1329861 23-Jun-2015 13:04
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Have insulation in roof and underfloor and need to replace front door as warped over 60years so thought we would replace the door and then double glaze the Windows which are round the door and same idea at back door.

No issues with condensation at all.

Maybe it will be different when all windows/door replaced.

Interesting discussion though. :-)

A.


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  # 1330019 23-Jun-2015 16:01
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Hi
I have recently completed retro fit double glazing.  House was built 1996, Rylock aluminum joinery, generous glass areas.  120m2 not including separate garage and carport, three bedroom one bath. Insulated walls and ceiling including foil lining, concrete slab without polystyrene (designer had ideas about passive storage/thermal mass using gravel raft and slab with only moisture barrier between).  However, I have floor coverings over a poorly finished slab, would need to strip and install a leveling screed and or grind to concrete and refinish.  

The double glazing is standard double glazed units, not low E glass, not Argon gas. Project cost was $12,000 including one full window replacement, and one set of french/double doors replaced in existing frame, this includes my cost to repair and replace internal varnished timber sills.  Low E and gas would have been about 20% more.  I initially was only going to do doors and a couple of south facing windows, but then decided to borrow some money and just get it done. 

I currently have a full house, three adults and three children, there is little to no condensation on glass, but yes condensation on aluminum frames that requires drying or windows opened during the morning on fine days.  The house is noticeably warmer, retaining heat on sunny days and easier to heat with heatpump, not using any other heating source.

Previously have added heap pump, additional ceiling insulation self install of Novatherm. A single outlet DIY ventilation, Manrose 150mm whisperVent inline fan and timer (now Wifi). I also have 4.8kW solar PV grid connected.

I keep thinking that's it for upgrades, but may need bigger hot water cylinder, perhaps PVrouter or some battery storage. Waiting to see the winter power bills before commenting on payback of double glazing.




:)




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  # 1336490 3-Jul-2015 14:47
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Update.

Temperature of the double glassing units is very dependent on the temperature of the inside room. Before I think I was checking before the room warmed up enough to show the insulation effect.

Using an IR thermometer the double glazing units at 8 feet off the ground are nearly the same temperature as the walls 17 C vrs 20 C, while units at lower chest height 14 C vrs 8C of the single glazed unit.

Noticable difference.

A.

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