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972 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  # 1395082 26-Sep-2015 22:59
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I was not thinking of someone using an Altherma hot water heat pump and gas hot water in the same house as that would be a duplication. You are right about many hot water heat pump models being inefficient but the Altherma is a high end unit with a heating COP better than air to air heat pumps in the same kW range. When Daikin upgrades it to R32 it should become more efficient.

 

 



Planitherm is not a single product but a brand collection of low e glasses. Visible light, solar gain and heat retention specifications differ between different Planitherm low e products. Finding out which Planitherm variations are available in New Zealand and what their specifications are would be useful. Specific low e products should be chosen and specified or else the glazer could install anything with the Planitherm name on it.
Overseas it's possible to combine the low e glass with a higher grade of clear glass but that would cost more if it is available.

 

 



I've seen this multi purpose cool drawer product and thought it looked really useful

 

https://www.fisherpaykel.com/nz/kitchen/fridges-freezers/built-in-refrigeration/RB90S64MKIW1/

 


It's very expensive in retail but may be much cheaper through the builder.

 

 



I suggest changing the gas cooktop to this flushmount model

 

https://www.fisherpaykel.com/nz/kitchen/cooking-appliances/cooktops/CG905DWNGACX2/

 


It won't have pots precariously sitting up in the air like their gas on glass models. If the price is unreasonable you could get the very similar Smeg model.

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Uber Geek
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  # 1397413 30-Sep-2015 15:52
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Why not get rid of the rangehood, and have an integrated one in the cupboards above the cooktop. It can save some space, and visually looks better / more modern, as you don't have a break in the overhead cupboards.

 
 
 
 




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  # 1397420 30-Sep-2015 16:03
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Are the integrated rangehood just as powerful as dedicated/outside located one's? I have been told that NZ law states minimum 750mm clearance from cooktop to rangehood which would mean with integrated that side cabinetry will also start from 750mm space difference between cooktop island and bottom of cabinetry making reach for taking things out of cabinetry difficult?




Do whatever you want to do man.

  

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  # 1397448 30-Sep-2015 17:20
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billgates: Are the integrated rangehood just as powerful as dedicated/outside located one's? I have been told that NZ law states minimum 750mm clearance from cooktop to rangehood which would mean with integrated that side cabinetry will also start from 750mm space difference between cooktop island and bottom of cabinetry making reach for taking things out of cabinetry difficult?


 A kitchen designer should be able to get the sizings working right. Not too sure on the power, but they should be effective enough, and different manufacturers have different ones with different power. It does possibly depend how tall the users are, as to how comfortable the cupboards are to use. 

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  # 1397568 30-Sep-2015 20:12
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  # 1398358 2-Oct-2015 00:41
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billgates: Are the integrated rangehood just as powerful as dedicated/outside located one's? I have been told that NZ law states minimum 750mm clearance from cooktop to rangehood which would mean with integrated that side cabinetry will also start from 750mm space difference between cooktop island and bottom of cabinetry making reach for taking things out of cabinetry difficult?




That rule is in the gas codes for clearances to a rangehood. Don't know if there is a different measurement in the electrical codes for clearance above an electric cooktop. Also the clearance is higher again if your cooktop contains [or is] an indoor BBQ, lava rock grill ect. Due to fat flareups.







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  # 1399393 3-Oct-2015 15:15
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Still working on the final kitchen design but decided to go with only drawers instead of cabinets underneath the benchtop after @k1w1k1d suggestion in an earlier post. This will provide with more room, better ergonomics and finding things quicker.




Do whatever you want to do man.

  

 
 
 
 




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  # 1403522 10-Oct-2015 15:15
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Has anyone heard anything about SmartVent Synergy Plus system? I inquired about it and received the below house plan and documentation about the product. They have a 5kW and 7kW system. They have recommended a 5kW system for upstairs (they say it's actually an overkill for the first floor) and 7kW for downstairs. There is no outside unit for this system. I know the SIMX ducting is really good quality stuff they use for SmartVent. Idea is that the heatpump function kicks in when desired temperature is required that is set on the controller. It only needs to heat or cool the air that will be the difference between air temperature outside as it used that when it enters our leaves the house. Basically an ERV + Heatpump solution without an external unit. Any thoughts?


















Click below links to enlarge to full size.

https://i.imgur.com/GmVjwBN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6oe2pl5.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HBMr6wY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tRbPg49.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IdS0RA2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/pEj4nWP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1vQpt7e.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/t4boQBK.jpg





Do whatever you want to do man.

  

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  # 1403574 10-Oct-2015 17:30
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whats the price on one of those compared to say a heat pump branded one like

http://www.mitsubishi-electric.co.nz/product/group.aspx?cat=7377




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  # 1403577 10-Oct-2015 17:42
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5kW was roughly quoted around $12K and 7kW was $14K for SmartVent. I have not had a proper quote come through yet for Lossnay because all Mitsubishi agents in Hamilton are useless with ducted solution specially trying to incorporate a lossnay unit with their heat pump units. They all keep pushing for mini splits/Hi Wall units. The Mitsubishi solution for it's heat pump integration would require 400 ~ 500mm wide ducting where as SmartVent tops at 200mm. I think the designers for Mitsubishi are worried about not enough space in midfloor cavity and ceiling roof space even though I have got them more than the required space.




Do whatever you want to do man.

  

972 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  # 1403669 10-Oct-2015 21:53
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It says on their website

 

"Energy Recovery Cores

 


 

A choice of both new generation EV paper cores/polymer cores best suited for your home."

 

 



Paper ERV means the heat exchange core is permeable and humidity is transferred between the incoming and outgoing air stream. That's good in some situations like in very cold climates where low humidity is a problem but humidity retention is not a behaviour we want from a ventilation system. The Lossnay is a permeable system.

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  # 1403749 11-Oct-2015 09:58
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but if combined with a heatpump the permeability of the material shouldn't be to much of an issue, because humidity is much more noticeable in the summer when the heatpump is on cool, which helps removed humidity anyways



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  # 1411387 22-Oct-2015 20:33
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Received the updated kitchen designs today. Under bench storage changed to drawers and both microwave and oven has been moved to the scullery. I don't like the fact that scullery bench top space is really empty. I will ask them to place over head cupboards like kitchen cooktop Island's at 700mm height start. It's looking a lot better now.












Click on links below to enlarge photos.

https://i.imgur.com/XN69zaY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ML5uIe7.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/w4Lk7sB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mDBSxv6.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7LFqRn1.jpg




Do whatever you want to do man.

  

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  # 1411410 22-Oct-2015 21:31
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oven in the scullery? not what i would do as your cooktop is in the kitchen they need to be in the same place as it makes the flow of cooking screwed up

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Uber Geek
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  # 1411424 22-Oct-2015 21:53
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Looks good. I would have some more of the shallower drawers. as deep draws aren't that usable. My shallow drawers are used more than the deep ones. Also I would make sure to have power sockets in the island. Just been to one house that didn't have any so no way to put in a laptop when sitting at the island

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