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JPS



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# 175588 5-Jul-2015 08:31
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Has anyone installed the following downlights?
http://nzedenlight.com/product/html/?1165.html
I'm looking at replacing a house lot of halogens with IC rated LEDs before we upgrade our insulation.
It's hard to find IC rated lights with a 75mmm cutout and it would be nice to avoid enlarging the existing holes.
They seem well priced but I'm at the other end of the country so can't easily go in for a look.
I would also appreciate suggestions of alternatives if anyone had them.
Many thanks
Justin

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  # 1337221 5-Jul-2015 09:39
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They will be pretty harsh because of the silver reflector and no diffusion. Check out the LED downlights I have came from Lighting Direct, I think this model. The ones you linked to have a 60 degree angle (ie narrow), mine around 150 degrees. If you have to make the holes a little bigger, so be it, but mine are brighter too - and dimmable.

JPS



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  # 1337648 6-Jul-2015 09:55
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Thanks for the suggestion. The lights will replace 50 watt halogens with a narrower beam which give a good result (probaly because we have high ceilings). We hardly turn the things on as we usually use table lamps. I might order a couple and give them a try as they are half the price of others. Hate to think of our heat disappearing into the ceiling. :)    

 
 
 
 


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  # 1337697 6-Jul-2015 10:52
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bite the bullet and cut them out. the frosted robus and phillips LEDS look great with less glare. we have the phillips one in our house which arent dimmable but the 240V robus ones are IC rated and dimmable

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  # 1337703 6-Jul-2015 11:05
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get some quotes from sparkies. you may find that the HUGE discounts they get on stuff vs "retail" prices at the electrical wholesaler means the labour costs are just about covered.

you can also look at the halcyon r770 Leds which are frosted and dimmable like the robus

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  # 1337712 6-Jul-2015 11:09
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eurotech  icdlr10w3k

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  # 1337790 6-Jul-2015 12:35
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I used these http://nzedenlight.com/product/html/?1440.html to replace some existing lights. They are excellent. I have a dimmer on them.

My personal experience is that enlargening holes in gib can be tricky....

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  # 1338379 7-Jul-2015 11:32
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2 holesaws stacked will make quick work enlarging the holes




Richard rich.ms

 
 
 
 


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  # 1338388 7-Jul-2015 11:52
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I knew a sprky who had stacks of plywood rings to act as a mandrel. it would stack on the pilot drill and hold everything centeted as he drilled. the rings were made by simply drilling the ply with holesaws of different sizes. the rings ate usually the bit you chuck away.

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  # 1338392 7-Jul-2015 11:58
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Oh and if the downlights are a non isolated driver then you can end up with one of them glowing slightly when they are off because of the leakage currents of a few 10s of micro amps. The cheap 10 w lighting plus ones I got suffered from this. Needed a resistive load to stop it. Just put one of the wire wound 12v transformers back across it to stop it. Surpriseing how bright those few microwatts of light can be at night time. Same leakage current is what makes CFL lamps pulse.




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  # 1338466 7-Jul-2015 12:57
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richms: 2 holesaws stacked will make quick work enlarging the holes


Thanks for that suggestion. I hadn't thought of that.


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  # 1338471 7-Jul-2015 13:03
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A lot of mandrels wont have enough thread on them to allow stacking. some do though so you just have to find the ones that do. most of the older starret and blumol dont

JPS



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  # 1339123 8-Jul-2015 10:07
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Thanks for all the suggestions.I'll probably end up enlarging the cutouts I think.

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