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Topic # 193881 28-Mar-2016 17:51
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Looking at building one, but pricing timber at bunnings was getting scary quick even for their cheap knotty pine. Found a few nice looking ones online, but again, they rapidly start to cost $250+ for a good one that is not 1mm steel and mdf and not the size of an old school desk.

 

Anyone built one and can recommend a place to get the supplies in Auckland? Anyone seen any good kits or plans for one as well? Want to make something sturdy and freestanding so when we eventually move, I can take it with.

 

Looking forward to getting my garage kitted out, been ages since I have had a garage space.





Try Vultr using this link and get us both some credit:

 

http://www.vultr.com/?ref=7033587-3B


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  Reply # 1520828 28-Mar-2016 18:15
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Dont buy timber at bunnings. Go to timberworld or similar and it is way cheaper.

 

 

 

I bought some of the 900mm tall rack-it shelving frames from bunnings and stuck some castors on them for movable benches. If you put 18mm ply on instead of their suggested junk MDF they are pretty hardy.





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  Reply # 1520847 28-Mar-2016 18:55
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How fancy does it have to be? There's all sorts of stuff you can use to get a workbench. I've built one, used a plywood kitset (under $250 from Bunnings but might not be stocked anymore), and converted an old kitchen benchtop/cupboard unit. This article is helpful http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/mistakes-first-time-bench-builders

 

Two sheets of 25mm/30mm plywood, approx. 2.4m by 1.2m, would give you a big enough table for $200 plus cost of connectors - you mainly joint the plywood for strength. But I couldn't find a plan online that shows you how. Most plywood plans use solid legs.

 

It could also be easier to buy one, e.g. http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/building-supplies/workbenches/auction-1044413462.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/building-supplies/workbenches/auction-1057996826.htm

 

 


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  Reply # 1520854 28-Mar-2016 18:58
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find a kitchen distributor and see if they have any old benchtops etc that are damaged on one side.

 

I have an old 1800x900 laminated benchtop as my main workbench. It use to be an old solid core door with a sheet a perspex over the top as the work surface.


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  Reply # 1520856 28-Mar-2016 19:02
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What do you want the work bench for?

 

Electronics, gardening, working on car motors? Movable or permanent?

 

Years ago when I built my first garage I had some 150x50mm rimu rough sawn left over.

 

Made the bench top 1500x600 and all bolted together to 100x50 rails and legs.

 

Plugged the top bolt recesses and planed to top smooth.

 

Supports a decent vice, drill press and bench grinder with room enough to do a bit of electronics.

 

You need to review your application and shop around for best price and quality of timber.

 

 

 

 

 

 





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  Reply # 1520866 28-Mar-2016 19:06
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Another option for the top is second hand flush doors.





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  Reply # 1520871 28-Mar-2016 19:11
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Have a hunt round on TradeMe for a few weeks. When I built mine I found a guy selling some cheap timber up in Kumeu. It had been milled to a weird size and wasn't treated but for a work bench that was fine.

 

I roughly followed this guide and my benches have been solid from day 1. Bunnings had a deal on ply at the time so my tops are just 12mm ply, it was the cheap and nasty stuff but for my needs its been more than adequate.


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  Reply # 1520873 28-Mar-2016 19:21
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More or less what others have said. I made mine with a (pretty rough) plywood top, faced with hard board to make it nice and smooth. Which was a waste of time, since I basically didn't see the surface of the bench for the next 5 years since it was just covered in junk.

 

So long as it's level, you can't go too badly wrong.


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  Reply # 1520875 28-Mar-2016 19:22
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I have some cut down palet racking. 1m h x .95 w x 3.2m l

 

I got it from surplus traders in Rosebank road.

 

If I recall it was about $100 - $150 incl chipboard shelves.

 

It was cut to the height I wanted it as I am taller than average.

 

Disassembles easily, moves easily, very sturdy and you could put a few V8's on there with no issue if that is what your in to.

 

Best money I spent, I was looking at kitchen benchtops etc but this is the best you will buy.

 

John

 

 





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  Reply # 1521941 28-Mar-2016 23:28
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Steel is good for strength, so dont forget you can make the frame for your bench out of that if you can cut and weld/bolt steel.

 

Ah let me guess, you cant cut steel because you dont have a workbench, hmmm

 

 


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  Reply # 1521947 28-Mar-2016 23:31
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elpenguino:

 

Steel is good for strength, so dont forget you can make the frame for your bench out of that if you can cut and weld/bolt steel.

 

Ah let me guess, you cant cut steel because you dont have a workbench, hmmm

 

 

That's why the uprights and shelve supports are great, ready to go and I think the whole lot were around $100 a bench for the metal bits, then add ply from somewhere else for the top. I did get a few of their $20 MDF pieces to use as a template and then use for sotrage underneith it on more rails.

 

Once the garage is clean I will put pics up.





Richard rich.ms

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  Reply # 1521960 29-Mar-2016 02:08
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Jase2985:

 

find a kitchen distributor and see if they have any old benchtops etc that are damaged on one side.

 

I have an old 1800x900 laminated benchtop as my main workbench. It use to be an old solid core door with a sheet a perspex over the top as the work surface.

 

 

This. Or try a secondhand cabinetry/demolition place and look for an old kitchen bench unit. Remove the stainless or Formica or whatever, if necessary, and make your own wooden bench top or fix a secondhand flush door to it to create the top. An advantage is that it is likely to come complete with drawers and cupboards for tools and supplies.


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  Reply # 1522380 29-Mar-2016 17:25
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I made mine from two sheets of 12mm ply and two sets of flat pack workshop draws from M10

 

Very simple design.

 

I made the bench 2100W (3 x the drawer unit were 700W) and slightly deeper than the draw units.

 

I added full depth leg panels (same height as draw units) 720 from each end of the bench. 

 

I added a shelf between the legs and a splashback panel.

 

I then stained and varnished the plywood.

 

I screwed the splash back to the wall in three places.

 

I pushed the drawers under and lengthened the legs (adjustable) on the drawers so they were pushing up under the bench.  This tightened the whole thing up nicely.

 

If the drawer were omitted additional leg panels would be needed.

 

It's a simple effective design and only really held in place by three screws.  If we move it could be removed in <5 minutes.

 

I'm on the road at the moment but I'll try and remember to post a photo when I get home.





Mike

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  Reply # 1522403 29-Mar-2016 18:04
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I recently got some second hand kitchen worktops free off local facebook group, and timber from the local recycle centre


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  Reply # 1522404 29-Mar-2016 18:06
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When I built mine, I just brought two 6m lengths of treated timber.  Built an L shaped bench in two halves, added a layer of particle board and then got a local sheet metal company to fold some 1mm galvanised for the work surface. 





Software Engineer

 


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  Reply # 1522428 29-Mar-2016 18:34
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you can use old scaffold planks as the top.... or any other part for that matter... A mate got some from a scaffold company and ran them through a buzz.

 

Mine are old Laboratory Benches... 6m long inch thick Rimu tops.. got them in return for taking them away (got to get lucky sometime)





Matthew


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