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mdf

mdf

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  #1525330 3-Apr-2016 19:49
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DarthKermit:

 

I've used auger bits, spade bits and bi-metal hole saws.

 

Bi-metal hole saws are the only one of the above that will cut thru steel such as nails. They are rather short so you'll need extensions to get a reasonable distance down your walls, assuming you're doing so with the gib in place.

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

 

Ta. Do I want to know what the flail thing at the top of the picture is?


 
 
 

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chevrolux
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  #1525331 3-Apr-2016 19:55
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I probably should have clarified my view on Cat 6 a bit more...

 

it's a little pointless ATM but is most certainly be what everyone should wire with simply because it is basically the same cost as Cat5e - jacks, patch panels etc are not much more expensive at all. Dynamix gear is very very good - jacks should be $4-5 and a 24-port patch panel maybe $50ish. The only reason I wouldn't use Dynamix is if it was for a site that needed to be certified - then you go to the brands ie Molex, Scheinder, 3M, Leviton etc.


mdf

mdf

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  #1525355 3-Apr-2016 20:00
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chevrolux:

 

I probably should have clarified my view on Cat 6 a bit more...

 

it's a little pointless ATM but is most certainly be what everyone should wire with simply because it is basically the same cost as Cat5e - jacks, patch panels etc are not much more expensive at all. Dynamix gear is very very good - jacks should be $4-5 and a 24-port patch panel maybe $50ish. The only reason I wouldn't use Dynamix is if it was for a site that needed to be certified - then you go to the brands ie Molex, Scheinder, 3M, Leviton etc.

 

 

Thanks - appreciate the brand recommendation too. I've used other dynamix stuff and found it good, but always appreciate the first hand experience.

 

Will go with CAT6 then - thoughts on shielded vs unshielded?




DarthKermit
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  #1525377 3-Apr-2016 20:01
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mdf:

 

DarthKermit:

 

I've used auger bits, spade bits and bi-metal hole saws.

 

Bi-metal hole saws are the only one of the above that will cut thru steel such as nails. They are rather short so you'll need extensions to get a reasonable distance down your walls, assuming you're doing so with the gib in place.

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

 

Ta. Do I want to know what the flail thing at the top of the picture is?

 

 

It's just a length of chain. It's very useful to drop down a hole before connecting your cable to it to pull the cable through. The chain will snake down the wall and make its way through the holes, unlike string.


chevrolux
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  #1525408 3-Apr-2016 21:52
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No need for shielding what so ever.

A little off topic... we quite often see people talk about power cables interfering with data. While you should always make sure there is separation of ELV cables from LV, I've only actually seen it be a problem once.
Was in a factory, cable was testing fine but the link just wouldn't work. It was an old Cat 5 (not even cat 5e) so.decided running a new one was better. Cable run was nice and clear the whole way, except going through a firewall where we found many many other 400V cables going through the same penetration.

mdf

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  #1526004 4-Apr-2016 20:15
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So why has the TCF specified both Cat6a and shielded (STP) cable? Why go for that level of overkill when people will just ignore it (along with any good bits they might say too)?


Disrespective
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  #1526179 5-Apr-2016 09:12
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I'm doing this process now also, and have a question i'll tack onto this if that's OK, OP?

 

I think I want to wire the telephone wiring into the patch panel so that I can then patch it to any RJ45 port in the house. I've seen this done in new higher end multi residential builds and think it's a smart idea (any network port can be used for a modem/telephone if routed properly on the patch panel). 

 

My questions is, if I have run RJ45 cat6 around the house, which wire pairs should I use to wire the RJ11 from the demarkation point into the patch panel properly?




InstallerUFB
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  #1526190 5-Apr-2016 09:33
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Click to see full size

 

the center pr (pr one in the cable of the blue/white-blue pr ) is used for conventional voice circuits - whether it be a RJ45, RJ12 Or RJ11


Disrespective
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  #1526208 5-Apr-2016 09:52
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Great, thanks. Blue pair, here I come. 

 

If I am moving the main telephone line to the patch panel and it's not long enough, is it OK to re-wire the whole length with Cat6 straight from the demarcation point to the patch panel?


froob
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  #1526234 5-Apr-2016 11:20
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Disrespective:

Great, thanks. Blue pair, here I come. 


If I am moving the main telephone line to the patch panel and it's not long enough, is it OK to re-wire the whole length with Cat6 straight from the demarcation point to the patch panel?



That should be absolutely fine.

What method are you using to feed the phone line to multiple outlets (assuming you have more than one phone)?




Disrespective
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  #1526293 5-Apr-2016 12:37
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froob:
Disrespective:

 

Great, thanks. Blue pair, here I come. 

 

 

 

If I am moving the main telephone line to the patch panel and it's not long enough, is it OK to re-wire the whole length with Cat6 straight from the demarcation point to the patch panel?

 



That should be absolutely fine.

What method are you using to feed the phone line to multiple outlets (assuming you have more than one phone)?
If I understand your question correctly i'm planning to run Cat6 from the demarcation to 2 or 4 ports on the back of the patch panel. One of the patch panel front ports can then be wired to the modem, and the other port/s to any of the other locations on the patch panel. This should allow me to be able to use any of the network ports around the house with a standard phone (if we ever use one again) if I wanted to. 


froob
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  #1526343 5-Apr-2016 13:52
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If I understand your question correctly i'm planning to run Cat6 from the demarcation to 2 or 4 ports on the back of the patch panel. One of the patch panel front ports can then be wired to the modem, and the other port/s to any of the other locations on the patch panel. This should allow me to be able to use any of the network ports around the house with a standard phone (if we ever use one again) if I wanted to.

 

That will work. You'd usually want to install a master splitter, giving you a dedicated jack on the patch panel for ADSL and the others commoned up for phones. But, if you're not actually planning on using phones, I suspect it wouldn't make much difference to your ADSL connection.





Disrespective
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  #1526360 5-Apr-2016 14:24
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Yeah, fair call. I don't recall if there is a master splitter at the demarcation point already, and I'm not sure I completely understand where it's supposed to be wired to be able to apply it to my situation properly. *shrug*


  #1526372 5-Apr-2016 14:40
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Signet ST2206, connects the incoming phone line, can add a master filter and it allows you ports to patch the phone lines from. Its only ~$45 and make things easy.

 

Diagram of how it connects up. just connect the 2 input wires from the demark up to it

 

http://signetcomms.co.nz/catalogues/SIGNET-ST2206-Wiring-Set-up.pdf


Disrespective
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  #1526375 5-Apr-2016 14:51
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Jase2985:

 

Signet ST2206, connects the incoming phone line, can add a master filter and it allows you ports to patch the phone lines from. Its only ~$45 and make things easy.

 

Diagram of how it connects up. just connect the 2 input wires from the demark up to it

 

http://signetcomms.co.nz/catalogues/SIGNET-ST2206-Wiring-Set-up.pdf

 

Hmm, that looks pretty useful. Thanks. Will look into finding one and having a play. 


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