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Vocus

  #1721242 16-Feb-2017 13:29
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If you can't find any markings, this is a way to identify it.

 

http://www.boedeker.com/burntest.htm


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  #1721253 16-Feb-2017 13:52
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timmmay:

 

Those two part glues are great, they stick just about anything to just about anything else - including fingers so be careful with it.

 

 

I have never had Araldite fail on anything. It is amazing stuff. Once someone forced the cover on my car's petrol tank the wrong way and broke it off. It was attached to a spring-loaded hinge with a spot weld, which broke. I didn't think for a moment that the glue would hold but I decided to try it anyway. It worked perfectly, probably the strongest component on the car.

 

 





I don't think there is ever a bad time to talk about how absurd war is, how old men make decisions and young people die. - George Clooney
 


 
 
 
 


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  #1721292 16-Feb-2017 14:44
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Rikkitic:

 

timmmay:

 

Those two part glues are great, they stick just about anything to just about anything else - including fingers so be careful with it.

 

 

I have never had Araldite fail on anything. It is amazing stuff. Once someone forced the cover on my car's petrol tank the wrong way and broke it off. It was attached to a spring-loaded hinge with a spot weld, which broke. I didn't think for a moment that the glue would hold but I decided to try it anyway. It worked perfectly, probably the strongest component on the car.

 

 

Metal is one thing.  Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).


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  #1721328 16-Feb-2017 14:52
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ubergeeknz:

 

Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).

 

 

Polyethylene, which is what the air filter bx in both our cars is made out if, is one such plastic.  But it can be heat-welded.





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  #1721365 16-Feb-2017 15:38
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If it's in the car engine bay, then it could be nylon-filled engineering plastic or a polyamide. These will resist the solvents and heat / cold / vibration stressors of an engine bay.

 

It will make gluing / welding difficult, and could need an activator to make the glues stick.

 

Ideally, if you could brace it internally or externally with a wood dowel / square / rod / aluminium, to actually increase the gluing area - that would help.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

 

 





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  #1721407 16-Feb-2017 16:04
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Even if glue won't physically adhere to the plastic, you could try screwing a couple of self-tapping screws into the plastic, and glue those together. Or drill some holes in the plastic, and overfill with epoxy (gladwrap or similar on both sides to keep it in place), so that there is a blob of epoxy on both sides of the hole.

 

Beware that epoxy is brittle and won't survive vibrations well... you might want to press some fibreglass cloth into the epoxy for flexibility.

 

 


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  #1721449 16-Feb-2017 17:13
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joker97:

Hi what would be the best way to glue a plastic tubular structure that has snapped off a plastic box? The snap is not clean, jagged edges.

 

 

Depends on the plastic, and how much stress the joint has to take. The generic answer is some sort of epoxy, however there's also plastic welding cement that dissolves the plastic so it re-hardens around the joint, however some of that gets brittle with age. Also there are plastics with low surface energy that are essentially un-gluable, polyethylene and polypropylene being prime examples, they have only slightly higher surface energy than teflon. You can glue those, but you need specialised stuff like JB Weld. Then if the joint has to take stress you may need to reinforce it, e.g. by using a soldering iron to push metal pins into the plastic at the joint before you glue it.

 
 
 
 


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  #1721465 16-Feb-2017 17:27
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ubergeeknz:

Some plastics however cannot be adhered to with any adhesive.  You have to "weld" them (chemically or with heat).

 

 

They can be glued, but you need some pretty exotic adhesive, the JB Weld I mentioned above being one example. I'm about to try out some Japanese glue that's a single-component contact adhesive that claims to glue PE and PP. I'm just waiting for a non-rainy day so I can do it outside, I can't imagine what sort of carcinogenic cocktail this must be if it'll glue PE and PP (MEK, xylene, acetone, who knows).

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  #1721466 16-Feb-2017 17:32
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If OP hasn't realised by now from this thread... gluing of plastics is "complicated".  You could have a crack with superglue and/or epoxy.  If that doesn't work, maybe just replace the part?


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  #1721496 16-Feb-2017 19:22
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If you could put up a pic of the broken pipe we'd be in a better position to be able to tell you how to fix it the best way possible 


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  #1721712 17-Feb-2017 10:36
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Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane

 

Was recommended to me for by a Sea Kayak manufacturer for gluing paddle blades to shaft or accessory items to kayak, eg plastic to fibre glass/kevlar.





:)




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  #1721779 17-Feb-2017 12:36
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kotuku4:

Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane


Was recommended to me for by a Sea Kayak manufacturer for gluing paddle blades to shaft or accessory items to kayak, eg plastic to fibre glass/kevlar.



Thanks where do i get it from?




Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.




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  #1721780 17-Feb-2017 12:36
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Athlonite:

If you could put up a pic of the broken pipe we'd be in a better position to be able to tell you how to fix it the best way possible 



Ok wait




Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.




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  #1721783 17-Feb-2017 12:38
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Lots of good points and ideas sorry i didn't reply to every post- i have taken every post seriously.

My iPhone mini is very hard to type on or add pictures etc




Involuntary autocorrect in operation on mobile device. Apologies in advance.


neb

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  #1721811 17-Feb-2017 13:04
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kotuku4:

Holdfast Gorilla Glue, a liquid expanding Polyurethane

 

 

It's probably OK in this situation (assuming it can bond the plastic), but be careful with this stuff for general use if you're gluing anything that's not hidden out of sight, you're going to get yellow-brown polyurethane foam swelling out where you've glued it. For my go-to adhesive I prefer Uhu, glues almost anything and dries clear. Plus you can use it as either standard or contact adhesive if you need that.

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