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  Reply # 1745180 21-Mar-2017 13:37 Send private message quote this post

andrewNZ: The first thing I'd be doing is getting up and having a look myself. I don't trust those people one little bit.

If you're going to spend money, dont spend it with HRV/DVS. Positive pressure systems are a bloody scam. (I could rant for days about why)

Go with a real balanced pressure heat recovery ventilation system (one with a heat exchanger). Smart-Vent do it, as do Cleanaire.
Be aware Smart-Vent also do a cheaper positive pressure system, you don't want that.






Can you link to the exact product you recommend? What is the cost approximately?

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  Reply # 1745182 21-Mar-2017 13:43 Send private message quote this post

We love our Smartvent system.  I am a skeptic on the 'positive pressure' claims but the airflow does seem to work so it achieves what we wanted it to very well.  


We chose Smartvent because they do not lock you into their system.  You are free to by parts and install it yourself.  No hard-sell on a system you "have" to call them to fix.  


HRV may have changed but when we were looking they were horrible liars and wouldn't take no for an answer.


I would be looking at it myself, or getting another opinion. Rust in a motor sounds ridiculous (or illustrates they are crap to begin with)...and has been pointed out by several in this and other threads HRV salespeople seem to operate on a policy of lying and exaggerating (or at least they use to) 


I would be considering a CGA claim or replace the motor with another brand that you can buy the parts for.  The ducting and all that should be easily adaptable.  



Always be yourself, unless you can be Batman, then always be the Batman



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  Reply # 1745183 21-Mar-2017 13:44 Send private message quote this post





MadEngineer: Just be aware of the efficiency drop when using ducted heat pumps and other ducted heating systems.


... that may be the case compared to running a number of separate units, but my experience of having used a ducted system through two winters is that they're pretty damn affordable to run - certainly cheaper than buying fire wood! Our total heating bill is a lot lower than it was prior to installing the system, when we used a mix of wood, gas and standard heat pumps - and we heat more of the house for longer now as well.


And the convenience factor of a ducted system is massive compared to other options, but I do agree with the preference to install the vents in the floors, going by my problems with ceiling-mounted vents in a house with high ceilings.



@jonathan18 which ducted system did you go for?



We installed a Daikin unit, but had significant issues with the install - a combination of unfortunately uninformed installers and a poorly designed product (which has since been taken off the market - its key fault is it relies on a wifi connection between indoor unit and the controller to even function!), as documented on this earlier thread. (We still haven't replaced the vents with downward firing defusers and continue to simply have the standard infusers removed - it's a bit ugly but does the job.)


I'd totally recommend a ducted system as a all-house heating solution, but based on my experience do so on the proviso that one uses a company with considerable experience in designing and installing such systems for existing houses, and that one asks the right questions to avoid the same traps we fell into - most critically, how are you going to ensure even airflow with a high stud?, and how are you going to ensure an accurate reading of actual room temperature, not the @#$@# temperature at the return? (ours defaulted to the return sensor when I turned it back on recently - it was reading 31 degrees versus 21 in the lounge!).

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  Reply # 1745374 21-Mar-2017 20:45 Send private message quote this post

^ Classic.  FWIW, if you have one of the popular ducted fujitsu models with the wall mount control, check for a button labelled "ECONOMY" - underneath of which it will have the text "THERMO SENSOR".  Holding down this button will toggle an indicator on the screen showing where the temperature reading is read from.  The default for this setting can be programmed with dip switches under the wall controller or programmed with the relevant installation codes.


Depending on your installer and their pool of thought and/or the installation environment (or level of laziness) is to how you'll have this set.  One lot will say that the airflow should be sufficient that the temperature at the indoor unit probe is the best reading whereas others will argue it's best to use the temperature of a single room based on the reading at the remote control.  Of course the latter requires the feature-supporting controller to be placed at a suitable location at head height which is what your body generally determines the room temperature from.

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