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MikeAqua
6820 posts

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  #1808801 29-Jun-2017 11:22
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Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere?  You don't usually need to do that.  Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.

 

If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges.  These are usually pink.

 

 





Mike


jimbob79

665 posts

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  #1808823 29-Jun-2017 11:35
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MikeAqua:

 

Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere?  You don't usually need to do that.  Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.

 

If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges.  These are usually pink.

 

 

I'm only going back to bare wood where I need to. The house was re-painted about 17 years ago and was stripped back to bare wood. Areas I do need to strip are where the boards have been as weathered and is exposing bare timber. 

 

Also what is a recommended grit sandpaper just to take the 'edge' of the existing paintwork?

 

 

 

 


mdf

mdf
3066 posts

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  #1808856 29-Jun-2017 12:14
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jimbob79:

 

MikeAqua:

 

Are you scraping back to bare wood everywhere?  You don't usually need to do that.  Just remove loose and flaky paint, cut out rot and fill holes.

 

If using a heat gun on old paint, I suggest a respirator with gas and vapour (P100) cartridges.  These are usually pink.

 

 

I'm only going back to bare wood where I need to. The house was re-painted about 17 years ago and was stripped back to bare wood. Areas I do need to strip are where the boards have been as weathered and is exposing bare timber. 

 

Also what is a recommended grit sandpaper just to take the 'edge' of the existing paintwork?

 

 

120 or 150 grit should see you right. You just want to take the glossiness off it. A random orbital sander does a good job on rusticated weatherboards. I wouldn't use a belt sander or angle grinder sanding attachment if you're just scuffing it up for a re-coat. They're a bit aggressive and can leave marks.


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