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  Reply # 2017823 17-May-2018 18:32
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snowfly:

 

Do you have something like this:

 

 

 

 

 

Think the op has just a nomal door. if this were the case then their problem wouldnt exist at all. 

 

 


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  Reply # 2018461 18-May-2018 17:11
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I would focus on the lock. Our 20 year old opener had the remote, an electrical switch momentary contact lock ( 12 -> 2 pm to trigger ), and the and a visually identical emergency wire switch lock that you turned and pulled out. As it's a solid concrete structure, including roof, multiple triggers were worthwhile. However, a builder wanted to use the garage power, and whilst I was getting the key, he opened the garage with a small inspection snake lamp and a long piece of No 10 wire hook onto the trigger. The units usually have a " how to programme" note. Ours goes up and down twice to reprogramme if you use the wire to open. The electrical switch gets dirt on contacts and stops working if we don't use it for months, so we have to enthusiastically jiggle the key to get contact. The wire pull can be a little difficult, but a good jiggle should help that. Turn and pull, it does not spring back to 12 noon like the electrical one.




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  Reply # 2019077 19-May-2018 17:09
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So i got the little keylock out (attached to a long wire).

 

Eventually got the motor to disengage. 

 

Spent 1 hour trying binary codes from 0 to 255 on the replacement remote prior to this but couldn't open the door.

 

Replacement remote is now working, but you have to hold the button down for 1 sec and it's only 80% reliable that it gets the code with 1x button press, so I think either I got unlucky and it didn't pick up the code, or I wasn't pressing down long enough when i was cycling through all the codes.

 

 

 

If anyone is wondering, the remote in the original post is 303 Mhz, 8-dip switch remote.





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