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  Reply # 2026380 31-May-2018 17:21
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I thought some werea vacuum, as would't that be best to prevent heat flowing across the panes? But I guess that would be difficult with large panes and the pressure on the glass. 


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  Reply # 2026420 31-May-2018 17:46
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mattwnz:

I thought some werea vacuum, as would't that be best to prevent heat flowing across the panes? But I guess that would be difficult with large panes and the pressume on the glass. 



They exist but I think they are too small and expensive for general use because of the problem you highlighted.

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  Reply # 2026428 31-May-2018 18:15
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geekIT:

 

I have a sneaking suspicion that commercially-made double glazed panels have some sort of inert gas in them.

 

Anyone know?

 

I'm thinking of doing a couple of windows, but if they'll be prone to collecting condensate I'll have to re-think the project.

 

 

 

 

I would be interested in seeing what you are planing on doing with photos of the windows.

 

Where are you sourcing your glass and what is the cost?

 

Would love to do something similar on three large windows in the living room and bedroom.




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  Reply # 2026815 1-Jun-2018 11:32
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I would be interested in seeing what you are planing on doing with photos of the windows. Where are you sourcing your glass and what is the cost? Would love to do something similar on three large windows in the living room and bedroom.

 

Ok, I'll take a few shots and post them. If I use glass I'll probably go to Southland Glass in Invergargle. I'm not sure about costs yet, mainly because I haven't decided what to use. It'd certainly be easier to use 4.5mm or 6mm perspex (or whatever they call it, these days) because I could just drill and screw panels onto the inside of the sashes. Only problem there would be avoiding the casement stays (the brass things with holes in that keep the windows open :-)), but that's a fairly minor issue.

 

Southland glass quoted me around $550 to rebuild my two existing sashes (approx 1300h x 600w) from the lounge frame, remove the glass, deepen the rebate where the glass sits (using a big overhead router), then make up and fit (beaded in) two complete DG panels. Probably 4.5mm glass I guess - dunno if anyone uses the old 3mm stuff any more.

 

It didn't seem too bad a price, but I can't remember now if that was for one or two sashes <gr>. Brain fade :-).

 

Come to think of it, if it was $550 for one, I'd have dismissed it instantly, so it must have been for two.

 

Apart from the heat retention side of the process, it'll be interesting to see how much LunaticMusic is kept out by these panels. 

 

On reflection, I guess any cost of noise reduction might be better than me confined to a prison cell for the rest of my days, which may happen soon if all other remedies fail me.

 

 


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Trusted

  Reply # 2030934 6-Jun-2018 15:03
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geekIT:

 

Apart from the heat retention side of the process, it'll be interesting to see how much LunaticMusic is kept out by these panels. 

 

 

I assume that you are getting the Drum n Bass from neighbours ?

 

Sub 100Hz is very hard to filter out, especially if you have a wooden house, as just about every surface will re-transmit the sound.

 

Even the cavities in your wall can act as a resonance chamber, amplifying any sound.

 

Even worse if you are on poles or stilts, as the sound will just come up thru the floor.





My thoughts are no longer my own and is probably representative of our media-controlled government




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Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 2031397 7-Jun-2018 12:54
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SepticSceptic, thanks. Yeah, I know I'm up against it. Needless to say, I've complained long and loud to the Southland District Council about the racket, but they've been as much use as the proverbial object full of cold water.

 

Apart from the possible relief that might be obtained from double or triple glazing, I've been thinking about a sound barrier that should be cheap and might be relatively effective.

 

It's an 8m 'boundary' fence, set about a meter within the 3m hedge that separates the two properties. Tanalized 150x100 posts, around 1800-1900 high, would spaced about 1600 apart. On the Lunatic's (hedge) side of the fence would be old corrugated iron (plenty of that in this cowtown) fixed horizontally. On my side would be 300x25 rough sawn pine, also fixed horizontally to the posts.

 

I'd cover the entire Lunatic side with the iron first. Next I'd fix just one 300x25 board on my side at ground level, with a few wire ties between iron and boards to stop them bulging. Then into each 150mm x 1600 x 300 cavity I'd shovel 10-12mm graded river gravel. It's also plentiful here and not crazily expensive. After that, with the gravel up to the top of the first board, I'd add a sloppy mix of cement and water. A lot of this would probably leak down and out but I think enough would remain in place to bind the gravel loosely together. 

 

Give the first batch a few days to set, then add another 300x25 board, gravel and cement etc. And so on.

 

Obviously it won't be as effective as a concrete or filled block wall, but I'm sure it'll make a difference. And it won't break the bank. Or my back. I hope :-)

 

 

 

 


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Master Geek
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  Reply # 2031406 7-Jun-2018 13:03
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Delphinus:

 

I had the option when buying mine. They are filled with argon gas. 

 

 

was wondering , what if you break it ? anyone can re gas it or they just install non gas double glaze ?

 

 

 

 


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  Reply # 2031435 7-Jun-2018 14:06
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1cloud:

 

Delphinus:

 

I had the option when buying mine. They are filled with argon gas. 

 

 

was wondering , what if you break it ? anyone can re gas it or they just install non gas double glaze ?

 

 

They are factory sealed units, you break one, you measure it and replace it with another, you can't field fix them...


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  Reply # 2031465 7-Jun-2018 15:23
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wellygary:

1cloud:


Delphinus:


I had the option when buying mine. They are filled with argon gas. 



was wondering , what if you break it ? anyone can re gas it or they just install non gas double glaze ?



They are factory sealed units, you break one, you measure it and replace it with another, you can't field fix them...



I did watch a Youtube video of a manual fill of argon gas. Two holes at the top of the spacer. Fill the gas through one hole and hold a lighter to the other. Argon is heavier than air so when the flame goes out the unit is fill and the holes are sealed.

Of course, a failed unit has an unknown seal failure somewhere so no use refilling.

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