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  Reply # 2098295 28-Sep-2018 17:34
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Had a quick look at the native firmware. The GUI looks really nice. Since they are supposed to be adding mqtt in the near future you probably want to stick with the current firmware. It's still a tight squeeze to add these behind a double switch. I had to replace the metal box with a larger plastic one and cut a hole in the side of the plastic box to make more room.




HTPC: Intel i3-2100 / 12GB RAM / AMD HD7750 / 480 GB SSD / 58TB Storage / MediaPortal / MadVR / Win10
AVR: Pioneer Elite SC-LX87 220W 9.2 Ch AVR
Speakers: Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts / Jade 2c Center / Jade 5 Rears
Subs: iNuke 3000dsp 3000W proamp with 4x 15" JBL Sealed Subs
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  Reply # 2098400 28-Sep-2018 21:45
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Got two of the Shelly2's last week and got around to a couple of overview videos today. I must say, very impressed. High quality and great GUI. Much better build than the Sonoff.

 

Hardware overview here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peykCQm90-c

 

GUI overview and API control here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gok8YBQl97k

 

P.S I've just made another video not yet posted that shows the Shelly working in a 2-way circuit. Awesome!!


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  Reply # 2098485 29-Sep-2018 12:10
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Nice video. Have you got a comparison photo of the Shelly vs Sonoff?

 

I've personally never find the size of Sonoff's an issue as i just tuck them down the back of a flush box.

 

And that switching anomaly would have me flashing with Tasmota immediately haha - that's a really strange behavior. Is the switch not connected directly to GPIO?

 

I like they are a slightly better put together device with the GPIO exposed, dual relays etc, but for about 15 minutes work you have that with a Sonoff. And you can buy 5 sonoff's for the price of a Shelly. I guess it does have the power monitoring if that is important to people.




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  Reply # 2098494 29-Sep-2018 12:44
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The switching pins take 240V rather than 3.3V on the sonoff gpio.




HTPC: Intel i3-2100 / 12GB RAM / AMD HD7750 / 480 GB SSD / 58TB Storage / MediaPortal / MadVR / Win10
AVR: Pioneer Elite SC-LX87 220W 9.2 Ch AVR
Speakers: Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts / Jade 2c Center / Jade 5 Rears
Subs: iNuke 3000dsp 3000W proamp with 4x 15" JBL Sealed Subs
Display: Samsung 60" UA60H6400 LCD TV
Accessories: Gefen HDMI Detective with splitter


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  Reply # 2098497 29-Sep-2018 12:51
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kiwijunglist: The switching pins take 240V rather than 3.3V on the sonoff gpio.

 

Ahh right. That would actually be handy for existing motion sensors!


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  Reply # 2099832 2-Oct-2018 09:32
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@xbmcnut - great video look forward to 2-way switch one. Do you have any of wiring up the shelly or any images of the shelly in the flush box?

 

@chevrolux - thanks for you thoughts on the sonoff. do you have any images of how it fits inside a flush box too?

 

This is a new area for me on my home automation journey...I have a number of multi gang switches (2,3,4 way) including some 2 and 3 way switching using the good old PDL 600 series. I am also looking at replacing some switches to push button as well to assist this trial.


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  Reply # 2099868 2-Oct-2018 10:26
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Yoban:

 

@xbmcnut - great video look forward to 2-way switch one. Do you have any of wiring up the shelly or any images of the shelly in the flush box?

 

@chevrolux - thanks for you thoughts on the sonoff. do you have any images of how it fits inside a flush box too?

 

This is a new area for me on my home automation journey...I have a number of multi gang switches (2,3,4 way) including some 2 and 3 way switching using the good old PDL 600 series. I am also looking at replacing some switches to push button as well to assist this trial.

 

 

2-way video is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVQYt5vw2k4

 

I now have two hooked up in 2-way circuits. Very easy to do. Just set the switch type to 'Edge'. This is a killer feature. 

 

Here is the Shelly wired in. 

 

 

Had to remove the flush box and use one of the U-shaped flush plates.


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  Reply # 2101956 5-Oct-2018 09:38
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Mine arrived a few days ago - thanks @kiwijunglist - great service.

 

The image looks like a tight fit...see how we go this weekend.


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  Reply # 2102016 5-Oct-2018 10:10
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chevrolux:

 

kiwijunglist: The switching pins take 240V rather than 3.3V on the sonoff gpio.

 

Ahh right. That would actually be handy for existing motion sensors!

 

 

At the moment I have the sonoff pow on my sensor lights with them set to turn on all the time, at only 20 watts of LED each its not a big deal, this would let me (assuming I can get them in the base of a sensor light) put the sensor into the shelly and the control to the lights and reflash it with something else to let me put a timer on when the lights actually work and log from the sensor triggering to know which one it was, rather than seeing that the feed to the sensor lights went up like I (try to) do at the moment.





Richard rich.ms



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  Reply # 2102290 5-Oct-2018 19:48
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I don't understand your post/question.




HTPC: Intel i3-2100 / 12GB RAM / AMD HD7750 / 480 GB SSD / 58TB Storage / MediaPortal / MadVR / Win10
AVR: Pioneer Elite SC-LX87 220W 9.2 Ch AVR
Speakers: Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts / Jade 2c Center / Jade 5 Rears
Subs: iNuke 3000dsp 3000W proamp with 4x 15" JBL Sealed Subs
Display: Samsung 60" UA60H6400 LCD TV
Accessories: Gefen HDMI Detective with splitter


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  Reply # 2102292 5-Oct-2018 19:50
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Will it fit in the base of a standard par38 sensor light and get triggered by the sensor ok? Gets me wifi override of the lights and ideally logging of when they are triggered.





Richard rich.ms



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  Reply # 2102299 5-Oct-2018 20:02
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hmmm.

 

So you want to put it between the sensor's light bulb and the power coming off the fitting after it goes through the PIR relay?

 

If the bulb takes 240V AC, then it could definitely work with tasmota firmware on the shelly in toggle mode and the switching would just trigger an mqtt post rather than switching on and off of the relay. The relay would be controlled by mqtt only via your automations on your hub.

 

I don't know your light, but i would guess it would be a very tight fit.

 

You have to wire the Live wire that normal goes out to power the bulb, into the switching input, and supply 240V continuous to the L pin and share the N pins with the bulb and the line in N wire, then you can run the L out from the shelly to the bulb.





HTPC: Intel i3-2100 / 12GB RAM / AMD HD7750 / 480 GB SSD / 58TB Storage / MediaPortal / MadVR / Win10
AVR: Pioneer Elite SC-LX87 220W 9.2 Ch AVR
Speakers: Wharfedale Jade 7 Fronts / Jade 2c Center / Jade 5 Rears
Subs: iNuke 3000dsp 3000W proamp with 4x 15" JBL Sealed Subs
Display: Samsung 60" UA60H6400 LCD TV
Accessories: Gefen HDMI Detective with splitter


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