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560 posts

Ultimate Geek
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  Reply # 2111266 20-Oct-2018 01:25
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chevrolux: What did you buy instead?

 

It's a Creality Ender i3 ... it comes for the equal price as a promotion - but -as said- it's a kit.

 

 

 

For the first 3D printer hijacking I'll take "revenge" at my son marauding in his "up to build" filament collection later on for a few prints. :-)





No backup, no pity. Anyway, RAID isn't one.




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  Reply # 2122680 9-Nov-2018 12:27
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Just to give a short update....

Ordered an Anycubic Mega =D

Shipping out now so should be 3D printing by Christmas.... now to work out Fusion 360

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Master Geek
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  Reply # 2122713 9-Nov-2018 13:46
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Here's something you probably didn't think of.

 

Vacuum forming the final outer cover - makes it look completely professional.

 

3D print the base then vacuum form the final product over the template.

 

Have a look at this site for a simple and effective tutorial on how to make and use the vacuum forming machine.

 

https://punishedprops.com/

 

Been following this guy for years, he's pretty clever and provides tutorials for many things.

 

Makers Muse is a great place for tutorials on 3d printing and Fusion 360 as well.

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg

 

 


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  Reply # 2122725 9-Nov-2018 14:01
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My Rule of thumb for buying 3D printers: It will cost you at least $1000. If the purchase price is less than $1000, you'll pay the difference in time (perhaps at $1/hr).

 

I didn't like Fusion, so I use OnShape.com or sometimes OpenSCAD. Others prefer 123D Design.

 

 




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  Reply # 2122770 9-Nov-2018 14:28
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frankv:

 

My Rule of thumb for buying 3D printers: It will cost you at least $1000. If the purchase price is less than $1000, you'll pay the difference in time (perhaps at $1/hr).

 

I didn't like Fusion, so I use OnShape.com or sometimes OpenSCAD. Others prefer 123D Design.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the recommendation. If I am "paying" for my time I expect this printer will cost magnitudes more $1000 - luckily though it's all for fun so I don't care!!

 

@NZSpides - good idea, I'm just not sure my requirments will suit vacuum forming as I need openings in the middle of the shape. I nearly bought a little laser cutter too so I could cut out the face plates myself too, but thought that was probably a little bit extravagant!

 

 

 

 




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  Reply # 2123607 11-Nov-2018 17:11
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Well shout out @Talkiet for the recommendation. Printer has arrived already!.. fastest I have ever seen something come from AliX. Extremely well packaged, everything I expected was included, and the instructions were great too. Set up this morning and printed the little owl figurines that came on the SD card - perfect!

 

Started printing a small case and have had trouble with the first layer lifting off, so a bit of reading says look at the bed levelling, and the bed temperature - I'm using PLA. I've run it on the "standard" 60C with 200C extruder that Cura sets. But will give it a run at 70C bed and 205C extruder and see if that's different.

 

How bloody cool though!!!!


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  Reply # 2123625 11-Nov-2018 17:52
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I've never had to go above the default 60C to keep the first layer adhered properly without corner curling. Make sure you wipe the bed down with IPA every time and yes, bed leveling is important. (I only use PLA, and use the 200C Cura sets as well)

 

GLad it's worked out well..

 

One extra bit of advice... Buy a couple of new print heads and a few new nozzles. It's far more sensible to just replace them when they get dirty (or when the heater block or temp sensor starts flaking out).. They are a few bucks each for the heater block and under a buck for the nozzles. I also got a replacement filament drive and grip thingy... Again, was cheaper to replace than clean up and fix the dirty/marred one.

 

Oh, and Octoprint on a Rpi is nearly mandatory.

 

Cheers - N

 

 


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  Reply # 2124243 12-Nov-2018 16:10
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+1 for Octopi.

 

Curling is due to the PLA shrinking differentially. Lifting is due to not sticking ot the bed. Bed levelling is important; if it's not level, the filament will stick in one place, but not in another. You're looking for a nice smooshed-down across the whole bed. Large things are harder to print, because a 1 degree error across 200mm has four times the effect compared to across 50mm.

 

If what you're printing only has a small surface on the bed, try adding a brim to it when slicing.

 

Beware that, counterintuitively, higher temperatures can cause clogs... heat travels up the hotend, swells and softens the filament where it should still be hard, which then jams. I use about 5-10 degrees hotter for the first layer, to aid the stickiness.

 

What sort of bed surface do you have? I have glass plus hairspray, but in the past I had good success with masking tape (the cheap Warehouse stuff is just as good as the expensive blue stuff that everyone recommends) wiped down with meths which seems to make it stickier.

 

I'd also get some spare heater cartridges and thermistors off AliExpress (11/11 sale on now!). Seemed like every time I unjammed the hotend, I broke one or other of them. On my printer, I've added some connectors near the hotend, so I can unplug all the wires before working on it.

 

 




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  Reply # 2124260 12-Nov-2018 16:36
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Thanks for the notes guys.

 

@frankv - I've just printed straight on the glass, so will keep "additives" in mind. And yea, now that you say "smoshed" and reading a looking at pictures, my first lead is more of a bead on the surface. So will go through the leveling process again I think before I go put any temps up.

 

Upping the first layer temp was something I read too - is that something I can set in Cura?

 

Edit: And yes, have grabbed a whole bunch of spare off the 11:11 sale so will have those on hand soon hopefully.


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  Reply # 2124331 12-Nov-2018 17:32
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If you have the anycubic Ultrabase (glass with black pattern - dots)... then you absolutely do not need any additives for PLA.

 

Cheers - N


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