Geekzone: technology news, blogs, forums
Welcome Guest.
You haven't logged in yet. If you don't have an account you can register now.

View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic
1 | 2 | 3

13 posts


  # 2124718 13-Nov-2018 13:05
Send private message

This's a closer photo of what I have on the board but will try tonight what you guys suggested.


4431 posts

Uber Geek
Inactive user

  # 2124770 13-Nov-2018 14:45
Send private message



Could you post bigger graphics please?





Right click and open in a new tab


117 posts

Master Geek

  # 2124785 13-Nov-2018 15:02
Send private message





Could you post bigger graphics please?





Right click and open in a new tab





Perfect! Thanks!

23 posts


  # 2124848 13-Nov-2018 16:56
Send private message

You'll find it easier to wire PIR if you put it like this. Less chance of shorting out.


+ Red


_ Black


NC White


NC resistor


T resistor


T Blue


Please re terminate so that there is no copper wire showing at the terminals. Strip the wire, twist it then trim it so there is just enough to go into the terminal so that the insulation on the cable is flush.


It looks neater and there is less chance of something going wrong. 


Pull lightly on each wire to make sure it is terminated securely.


Loose wires will cause false alarms in the future.

13 posts


  # 2125132 13-Nov-2018 23:04
Send private message

EXCELLENT...I've managed to get the alarm to work with one PIR. The strobe flashes, internal and external sirens work too.


At the moment I'm just testing and trying with short cables so the job looks ugly but indeed I'm going to make cables neat with no naked wires, etc when installing.


With my 2nd and 3rd PIRs, I want to have the house as 1 zone, I don't understand why people configure multiply zones. It makes sense for buildings but for houses for me I see my house as 1 zone so if I'm not home I arm my alarm, so all zones together. Unless only for the benefit of delays or immediate alarms, etc I guess.


So the question is if I wanted to add more PIRs should I wire them exactly as my first PIR and terminate them on the board on top of the existing PIR cables and once I do that I read somewhere that I need to either put resistors on the other zones on the panel to close them or close them from the keypad is that correct?


Another question, this part which came with my alarm I find it to be extremely handy that I can use it in different places, I need to find it online and order more.



It's a basic alarm tamper switch. Now my external alarm has its own tamper switch and on board there's a tamper input. I've tried connecting both standalone tamper switch and siren tamper switch to the panel in the tamper input however only 1 of them works at a time. Is there anyway I can get both of them to work individually when triggered?



Thanks you guys again, your assistance helped me configure my alarm myself. Soon I'll start installing and programming it the way I want (:

2393 posts

Uber Geek


  # 2125135 13-Nov-2018 23:26
Send private message

I use multiple zones as I always have my store room / workshop alarmed even if the house is not.

And then for the house I have seperate zones with varying numbers of sensors in each with some overlap, so I can run; all sensors active or night mode with one PIR disabled so I can get to the bathroom without setting the alarm off at night.

Zones are also useful if you have a granny flat or second area with a second keypad.

Good luck with the sensor turning, my neighbours and I had some early wake up false alarms in the first few weeks :(

41 posts


  # 2125137 13-Nov-2018 23:27
Send private message

There are many reasons for multiple zones & could be a good idea to have each sensor in a separate zone depending on how many you have. Could be useful for determining which areas have been activated, determining which sensors are creating false alarms, etc. A good example would be setting the sensors which are activated by walking to the keypad are set on a delay, whereas sensors which are not activated by walking to the keypad to be set to alarm instantly.


However, if you're wanting to put all sensors into a single zone, you'll have to wire them in series. So effectively creating a loop. In your case, instead of connecting one of the ends of the wire into Z1, you'll want to connect that to one wire from another sensor, and then the other wire into Z1. This video will explain it better - different sensors but same principal for PIRs. Please also note that you'll only need one End of Line Resistor for all the sensors which are connected to that single zone. 


The tamper sensor you've mentioned is just a simple switch. If you're wanting to use this for doors, windows, etc, I suggest you look into reed switches - there are different designs depending on where you're wanting to use them (e.g. ones that can be placed in a door frame so more discreet). They can be purchased cheaply from various places like AliExpress, TradeMe, Jaycar. 


In regards to getting the tamper to work for both the tamper switch and siren tamper, you'll also need to connect these together in series, the same as for using multiple sensors in a single zone. 




Edit: Missed a couple things.


- As default, the alarm will arm all zones when arming, so there's no inconvenience by having each sensor in a different zone.


- For the power to the additional sensors in a single zone, just wire the red and black wires the same as the original sensor into the panel.


- For unused zones, best practice would be to set them as unused when programming the alarm, so no need to put resistors on these. However, putting resistors over the zones would also work (but wouldn't recommend this).








13 posts


  # 2125139 14-Nov-2018 00:03
Send private message



The loop thing makes sense to me I now get it for both PIRs in 1 zone and multiply tamper switchs. It means all these things are in a closed circuit, if any of them (whether PIR or tamper switch) triggers, the closed circuit opens casing alarm to go off. 


The reason I want couple of tamper switches is that I want to place one in the electric box outside of the house and maybe another one in MDF. Isn't it smart idea to protect these boxes from people tampering with them? :)


Since it's ideally to hide the alarm box, do you guys recommend put it inside the roof space?  

41 posts


  # 2125140 14-Nov-2018 00:15
Send private message



Good idea with the tamper switches, but I'd recommend perhaps putting them in their own zone and not the tamper one as this is a 24 hour zone (meaning the alarm will trigger whenever the switch is activated, opposed to only being triggered when the alarm is armed).


I'd recommend locating the alarm panel in a cupboard or similar. Placing electronics within the ceiling cavity can cause them to fail prematurely due to the high temperatures. However, I've seen a quite a few installs in ceiling cavities with no issues.

13 posts


  # 2125141 14-Nov-2018 00:25
Send private message

Thanks for the tip. You right, better to zone them I don't want them to be 24 hour armed. So in this case I guess 1 wire goes to tamper and 1 wire goes to Z8 for example?

41 posts


  # 2125142 14-Nov-2018 00:35
Send private message

Not quite, one would go to COM & the other Z8. Then you'd program the zone type to be say instant/delay so the tamper switch will be armed when the alarm has been armed.

117 posts

Master Geek

  # 2125248 14-Nov-2018 07:59
Send private message



This diagram attached should help.


For the PIR in your case though, from what I can tell in the image, you'd just need to put the black wire into 'GND', and red into '+12'. You should probably use the Tamper terminals in conjunction with the NC though - refer to diagram and image attached.


Click to see full size






Click to see full size




Edit: Spelling







Hey @nzlogan


Is wiring the internal Piezo as a PGM or relay rather than in series with the external siren the better way of doing things?


Is there any reason why it's done that way?







41 posts


  # 2125399 14-Nov-2018 10:22
Send private message

Not too sure why instructions are suggesting this method, but it does work. I believe it would be PGM, and because the current draw of the piezo is so small, undesired affects aren't likely. It would probably be better to wire it in parallel to the siren though - so on the relay terminal, connecting the piezo to AUX and 1.


I'm not a professional though, so if anyone else could chime in that'd be great!

23 posts


  # 2126573 14-Nov-2018 14:16
One person supports this post
Send private message

If you series up the sirens and I short the outside siren there will be no inside siren.


Much better to keep them separate. Then they can have different timers as well.


Avoid paralleling the PIR. When it goes off you won't know where the break in/problem is.


Also plus 1 for timer on the entry circuit and instant on the others.


Much easier to look at it and go its the lounge PIR, check for broken windows, nope. Check for spiders, yes there you have it.


Otherwise you have to start isolating things until you find which one is tripping.





13 posts


  # 2126733 14-Nov-2018 17:25
Send private message

@nzlogan..please forgive me I edited your diagram :)


This's how I'm going to wire my system tonight. Later once I program the alarm I'll change the tamper to Z5 as you mentioned. I'm starting a simple one for now.


Hopefully I have no mistakes now.


1 | 2 | 3
View this topic in a long page with up to 500 replies per page Create new topic

Twitter and LinkedIn »

Follow us to receive Twitter updates when new discussions are posted in our forums:

Follow us to receive Twitter updates when news items and blogs are posted in our frontpage:

Follow us to receive Twitter updates when tech item prices are listed in our price comparison site:

News »

Logitech introduces new Made for Google keyboard and mouse devices
Posted 16-Oct-2019 13:36

MATTR launches to accelerate decentralised identity
Posted 16-Oct-2019 10:28

Vodafone X-Squad powers up for customers
Posted 16-Oct-2019 08:15

D Link ANZ launches EXO Smart Mesh Wi Fi Routers with McAfee protection
Posted 15-Oct-2019 11:31

Major Japanese retailer partners with smart New Zealand technology IMAGR
Posted 14-Oct-2019 10:29

Ola pioneers one-time passcode feature to fight rideshare fraud
Posted 14-Oct-2019 10:24

Spark Sport new home of NZC matches from 2020
Posted 10-Oct-2019 09:59

Meet Nola, Noel Leeming's new digital employee
Posted 4-Oct-2019 08:07

Registrations for Sprout Accelerator open for 2020 season
Posted 4-Oct-2019 08:02

Teletrac Navman welcomes AI tech leader Jens Meggers as new President
Posted 4-Oct-2019 07:41

Vodafone makes voice of 4G (VoLTE) official
Posted 4-Oct-2019 07:36

2degrees Reaches Milestone of 100,000 Broadband Customers
Posted 1-Oct-2019 09:17

Nokia 1 Plus available in New Zealand from 2nd October
Posted 30-Sep-2019 17:46

Ola integrates Apple Pay as payment method in New Zealand
Posted 25-Sep-2019 09:51

Facebook Portal to land in New Zealand
Posted 19-Sep-2019 18:35

Geekzone Live »

Try automatic live updates from Geekzone directly in your browser, without refreshing the page, with Geekzone Live now.

Support Geekzone »

Our community of supporters help make Geekzone possible. Click the button below to join them.

Support Geezone on PressPatron

Are you subscribed to our RSS feed? You can download the latest headlines and summaries from our stories directly to your computer or smartphone by using a feed reader.

Alternatively, you can receive a daily email with Geekzone updates.