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629 posts

Ultimate Geek


# 249050 22-Apr-2019 18:55
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I’m planning to paint a room and looking for some advice. I dint really have an tools etc so looking to bug those as well. I’ve looked at this video https://youtu.be/2eUxz_or2Qs and got a list of items used in the video

 

red devil 5 in 1 paint prep tool

 

sherlock adjustable painting stick

 

sherlock roller frame 

 

wooster 3" angle brush

 

radius 360 sande

 

Are these products ok to buy? any other alternatives? Especially with regards to the pole and the radius 360 sanding head.

 

Most are available here except the red devil tool. I want to know if I’m on the right track so far as I’m planning to buy the pole and radius 360 and start sanding after filling holes and bumps.

 

Also if someone can advice which product to use to fill the joints in skirting board that are visible and the gaps between the skirting board and dry wall.

 

Also need some advice regarding window frames which look to be wooden but not sure could be mdf.

 

How to go about painting the windows as they are off white colour and so are the skirting boards on floor and ceiling but I wish to paint them white same as ceiling.






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  # 2222345 22-Apr-2019 19:02
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Sorry, too much detail, can you break it down to bite size pieces?


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  # 2222347 22-Apr-2019 19:10
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When I saw this thread, the OP's post was blank, hence my /S reply  :-)


 
 
 
 


mdf

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  # 2222361 22-Apr-2019 19:52
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Take some photos and (if the paint is flakey) paint chip samples to a Resene Colorshop. The staff are trained to help you with room painting 101. All the stuff you linked to has NZ equivalents that are available locally.

 

As a very approximate summary:

 

- Acrylic paint dries darker than its wet colour. Test pot first. Don't paint testpots on the walls, paint on large card or paper sheets and hold them up

 

- Unless you're pulling up the carpet, get some carpet protection

 

- Fill cracks in wood with a paintable flexible sealant - No More Gaps or better

 

- Fill any flaws in the plaster board with Selleys Rapid Filler or equivalent

 

- Sand any flakey paint with about 120 grit sandpaper

 

- Lightly sand the rest

 

- Wash with sugarsoap, rinse with clean water

 

- Prime any timber - Quickdry or equivalent

 

- Seal anything porous incl paper or plaster - SureSeal or equivalent

 

- Undercoat - Quickdry or equivalent

 

- Starting at the top and work down:

 

- Ceiling paint on the ceiling. Use proper ceiling paint that is designed for ceilings. Very thick and flat so you won't see imperfections. One undercoat and topcoat will be enough.

 

- Lustacryl semigloss enamel on the skirtings, architraves windowsills, doors and anything else that has contact wear or something rubbing against something else. Two coats of waterbased enamel should be okay over Quickdry.

 

- Resene Spacecote or Dulux Wash and Wear on the walls - two coats.

 

 




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Ultimate Geek


  # 2222366 22-Apr-2019 20:05
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Thanks for the detailed reply. What to use to hide the joint where two pieces of skirting board meet? It's not timber or other solid wood, whatever standard skirting board is made of.  Wood filler? or is there anything else I can get?

 


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Ultimate Geek


  # 2222368 22-Apr-2019 20:09
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Think you are over thinking things.  Don't worry about brands at all.

 

To fill the gaps in the above photos use something like this

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/selleys-permafilla-450g-grey-ready-mixed-filler_p00593785

 

Some of those edges where the paint is flaking looks like it will need scraping with something like (you can't glue down paint with paint)

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/haydn-25mm-pro-edge-scrapers_p00688640 

 

To sand plaster use one of these

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/paint-partner-sanding-block-with-handle_p01210186 

 

These are great for sanding into corners

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/3m-12-3-x-7-30-x-2-54cm-detail-area-and-angled-fine-sanding-sponge_p00220337 

 

as far as the holes and bumps just use something like this 

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/gib-redifilla-2l-pail_p00309164

 

and to apply some thing like this would work

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/craftright-280mm-plasterers-trowel_p05960138 

 

For gaps around windows and doors something like this (any thing that would get flex)

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/selleys-no-more-gaps-fast-dry-475g-white_p00197315 

 

Ensure you tape everything I use something like this (don't cheap out)

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/bear-painters-masking-tape-48mmx50m-green_p00731503

 

If you can pull the carpet back first You will need a kicker to put it back properly

 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/diy-advice/flooring/carpet/how-to-lay-carpet  

 

 

 

(I don't work for bunnings)


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  # 2222369 22-Apr-2019 20:10
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quebec:

 

Thanks for the detailed reply. What to use to hide the joint where two pieces of skirting board meet? It's not timber or other solid wood, whatever standard skirting board is made of.  Wood filler? or is there anything else I can get?

 

 

 

I used Bostik something, its a flexible filler. Interior and exterior. Wood and metal expand and contract, I used that flexible product to cater for movement. If you can nail just either side of the joint (if you know where the stud ends) then you could use any filler.


mdf

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  # 2222374 22-Apr-2019 20:20
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quebec:

 

Thanks for the detailed reply. What to use to hide the joint where two pieces of skirting board meet? It's not timber or other solid wood, whatever standard skirting board is made of.  Wood filler? or is there anything else I can get?

 

 

 

No More Gaps is okay. Selley's Paint Over is better. Any kind of paintable silicone will be fine, just make sure you get one that is paintable - it will say so on the tube.


 
 
 
 




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Ultimate Geek


  # 2222380 22-Apr-2019 20:31
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Thanks for the replies and sorry for the typos, should have reviewed before posting.


neb

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  # 2222975 24-Apr-2019 01:11
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quebec:

What to use to hide the joint where two pieces of skirting board meet?

 

 

I believe the standard approach is to tape on a piece of masking tape with "Plasterer to fix" written on it :-).



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Ultimate Geek


  # 2226476 27-Apr-2019 18:26
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In finding it hard to cover the corner metal bead with putty. See pic one of them shows where I’ve managed to do it but it’s not looking neat and other pic shows metal exposed. Will paint stick on it or do I have to somehow cover it with putty?


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  # 2226479 27-Apr-2019 18:29
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It'll be fine, just undercoat the exposed metal. Make sure you give it a very light sand between coats

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  # 2226480 27-Apr-2019 18:30
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Handle9: It'll be fine, just undercoat the exposed metal. Make sure you give it a very light sand between coats

 

Agree, been there done that. 




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Ultimate Geek


  # 2226503 27-Apr-2019 19:33
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Are primer/undercoat/sealer all same thing? Do I need to put it on walls,ceiling as well it just places like this one?

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  # 2226513 27-Apr-2019 19:54
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Use an undercoat sealer. In my experience pigmented sealer is best but it's a pain to use. An acrylic is easier and just about as good unless you have stains that you need to seal.

You don't have to put it everywhere, only on raw plaster and gib but if you do undercoat the whole room then lightly sand between coats you get a much better finish than spot sealing.

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Master Geek


  # 2229100 2-May-2019 06:56
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Handle9: Use an undercoat sealer. In my experience pigmented sealer is best but it's a pain to use. An acrylic is easier and just about as good unless you have stains that you need to seal.

You don't have to put it everywhere, only on raw plaster and gib but if you do undercoat the whole room then lightly sand between coats you get a much better finish than spot sealing.

 

 

 

Hi there, 

 

 

 

I was thinking about using a pigmented sealer on my walls, can you explain how it is a pain to use?

Thanks,


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