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premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302687 21-Aug-2019 07:12
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gcorgnet:

 

premiumtouring:

 

Plenty of ways to physically control Konnected. The first one is putting something like a Wemo, Sonoff, 433Mhz radio controlled switch or wiring up your own relay to control the flow of power to the Konnected Boards. I have something similar using Z-Wave (which is more secure than 433mhz) that acts as an emergency override. Everyone knows where in the house this button can be located and it is a direct on/off switch for Konnected's power (and thus the sirens) should our mobile devices / the HASS app / or the like stop working or bug out for some reason.

 

Keeping the old security keypad is going to confuse the crap out of burglars and that's exactly what you want to be doing.

 

 

Oh yeah, I saw something in the Konnected KB about wiring in a kill switch to cut off the siren. That would be a way to do it as well...

 

But regarding your zwave switch. THat alos relies on your ZWave network being operational (ie Power going to the zwave controller, etc..)

 

 

Since UPS's are so cheap these days, you're crazy to not have one at least for your WiFi/Router at the bare minimum. Getting an extra one for your Home Assistant and Security Camera instances seems like a logical step in a modern connected home, no?





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premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302688 21-Aug-2019 07:14
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But to be super clear, the less secure solution is a 433mhz setup. Those are basically garage remote controlled on/off switches for physical devices.. They work regardless of whether your network is up or not. But they can be captured relatively easily so be mindful of that.





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gcorgnet

1015 posts

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  #2302689 21-Aug-2019 07:14
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Thanks for that. Yes, rpesence detecion works pretty well for us (we don't have iOS devices but are using Wifi AP)

 

And yeah, that makes sense... I think I've tinkered with Home Assistant enough in the last year that my wife knows it's not 100% uptime and sometimes tweaks are required.

 

I would be interested in your Nodered based keypad if you don't mind sharing.




premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302690 21-Aug-2019 07:17
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gcorgnet:

 

Thanks for that. Yes, rpesence detecion works pretty well for us (we don't have iOS devices but are using Wifi AP)

 

And yeah, that makes sense... I think I've tinkered with Home Assistant enough in the last year that my wife knows it's not 100% uptime and sometimes tweaks are required.

 

I would be interested in your Nodered based keypad if you don't mind sharing.

 

 

 

 

Happy to share once I've finished writing the guides for it. In the meantime I would recommend you take up the offer of the Konnected boards for $100 as that's a really good deal to get started with especially with the way the USD is headed.





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gcorgnet

1015 posts

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  #2302691 21-Aug-2019 07:18
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premiumtouring:

 

Since UPS's are so cheap these days, you're crazy to not have one at least for your WiFi/Router at the bare minimum. Getting an extra one for your Home Assistant and Security Camera instances seems like a logical step in a modern connected home, no?

 

 

I have bought a Sentry Lite to take care of that, which could potentially power up the Konencted stuff as well. I would also need to keep my NUC powered up as well so at that point the Snetry doesn't work anymore and I;d need a UPS


davidcole
5534 posts

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  #2302692 21-Aug-2019 07:18
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premiumtouring:

 

davidcole:
gcorgnet:

 

Random question regarding a Konnected Alarm. Since you have no longer access to the num pad to enable/disable the alarm. What happens if Home Assistant or your internet is down?

 

 

 

Does the alarm go off with no way of stopping it? Would it not go off? Any tips and tricks to cater for this scenario?

 



Theoretically you should still have local lan access. Just not external.

I always prefer a physical manual control for primary and the ability to override via software. For both alarms and light switches. This is why for my alarm I went software. Remotes and keypad still works but I can arm disarm via software when needed.

Is there a way of getting a physical control to the Konnected panel? Or compatible keypad?

 

 

 

Plenty of ways to physically control Konnected. The first one is putting something like a Wemo, Sonoff, 433Mhz radio controlled switch or wiring up your own relay to control the flow of power to the Konnected Boards. I have something similar using Z-Wave (which is more secure than 433mhz) that acts as an emergency override. Everyone knows where in the house this button can be located and it is a direct on/off switch for Konnected's power (and thus the sirens) should our mobile devices / the HASS app / or the like stop working or bug out for some reason.

 

Keeping the old security keypad is going to confuse the crap out of burglars and that's exactly what you want to be doing.

 

 

 

 

Ahh ok, yeah so no keypad, but can disarm via relay....so a switch/button somewhere can be set up.

 

 





Previously known as psycik

OpenHAB: Gigabyte AMD A8 BrixOpenHAB with Aeotech ZWave Controller, Raspberry PI, Wemos D1 Mini, Zwave, Xiaomi Humidity and Temperature sensors
Media:Chromecast v2, ATV4 4k, ATV4, HDHomeRun Dual
Windows 10
Host Plex Server 3x3TB, 4x4TB using DriveBender, Samsung 850 evo 512 GB SSD, Hyper-V Server with 1xW10, 2xUbuntu 20.04 LTS, Backblaze Backups, 


premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302699 21-Aug-2019 07:40
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gcorgnet:

 

premiumtouring:

 

Since UPS's are so cheap these days, you're crazy to not have one at least for your WiFi/Router at the bare minimum. Getting an extra one for your Home Assistant and Security Camera instances seems like a logical step in a modern connected home, no?

 

 

I have bought a Sentry Lite to take care of that, which could potentially power up the Konencted stuff as well. I would also need to keep my NUC powered up as well so at that point the Snetry doesn't work anymore and I;d need a UPS

 

 

That's an interesting solution. I like the fact it is user serviceable. I've yet to find a purpose for the Alarm Panel's backup battery.

 

I have a decent UPS plugged in to my Unifi PoE Switches. I then use PoE splitters to 12V and 5V items - which allows me to remotely turn items on/off and cycle power via the Unifi control panel.

Any reason you don't use an RPi4 for your Hass implementation? Hassio on RPi has become pretty bulletproof and seriously power efficient.. however it doesn't bode well for things like managing camera streams or being used for additional services like PiHole etc.





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gcorgnet

1015 posts

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  #2302701 21-Aug-2019 07:44
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I went after about 6 months and having to micro SD fail on me... NUC has been much more stable and powerful. I'm running quite a few hass.io add-ons so the NUC makes more sense both in terms of grunt and storage...

 

Please tell me more about the PoE stuff for 5V/12V Are  you sayng you use a PoE switch to power some non-Unifi things and turn them on/off? I have a Unifi Switch as well so I am interested


premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302715 21-Aug-2019 08:39
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gcorgnet:

 

I went after about 6 months and having to micro SD fail on me... NUC has been much more stable and powerful. I'm running quite a few hass.io add-ons so the NUC makes more sense both in terms of grunt and storage...

 

Please tell me more about the PoE stuff for 5V/12V Are  you sayng you use a PoE switch to power some non-Unifi things and turn them on/off? I have a Unifi Switch as well so I am interested

 

 

With MicroSD's always go for the Samsung EVO series and try to avoid high density (eg. 256 / 512GB etc).. those cards get hot no matter the brand and eventually fail. Smaller density is not only cheaper but with Samsung, generally more reliable. Now with USB 3.0 support in the RPi 4 you can offload backups so that should an SD fail in the future it is an easy restore.

 


Re: PoE, just got 12V and 5V 2A-2.5A PoE splitters with various cable types via AliExpress. Essentially they split the Power and Ethernet out.. so it doesn't matter if you use the ethernet or not.. although with the Raspberry Pi it is perfect, because you do want to be using the Ethernet.

 

When Konnected release their Ethernet boards, I'll be splitting 12V to power them and plugging the Ethernet straight in.

 

Via the Unifi PoE device control panel you can cycle the power on any individual port.. a great way to restart devices that stop responding. Important to note that you want to get reasonably high quality splitters so that power supply isn't the reason your devices are failing in the first place..





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gcorgnet

1015 posts

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  #2302719 21-Aug-2019 08:47
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Thanks for that. Do you have a link to such splitters on AliExpress? Thanks


gcorgnet

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  #2302729 21-Aug-2019 08:59
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Regarding powering the Konnected board. According to this, it is possible to power it up ising the Aux output of the exiting Alarm Panel.

 

Has anyone done that with a Bosch system? Would that take advantage of the backup battery and avoid me having to worry about backup power?


dfnt
1394 posts

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Lifetime subscriber

  #2302740 21-Aug-2019 09:31
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I've been internally debating going the full konnected or going the konnected interface.

 

I don't really care about home automation, or learning YAML and whatever other languages, in order to get an alarm to function like our old one.

 

At the end of the day all I want is reliable push notifications when the alarm goes off, and being able to remotely arm/disarm, whilst utilising the existing keypad etc.

 

Doing a bit of research yesterday, I found SmartThings doesn't natively support exit/entry delays so you have to use a third party script/app (SMH Delay) to achieve that. I couldn't see how you could easily do entry/exit delay beeps with any of the automation solutions, e.g. you arm the alarm the a piezo buzzer beeps every second for 30 seconds till the alarm arms, conversely when a sensor trips the piezo buzzer beeps every second for 20 seconds till the alarm goes off.

 

I also found that there's about a 2-3 delay if you used SmartThings, because the konnected board has to use TLS1.2 for API calls to SmartThings cloud, its processing power is not that great, hence the delay.. you can configure a reverse proxy using HA Proxy or Nginx to allow konnected to do the API calls locally and HA Proxy/Nginx forwards that to the cloud.

 

So I think the interface is for me.


premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302745 21-Aug-2019 09:37
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dfnt:

 

I've been internally debating going the full konnected or going the konnected interface.

 

I don't really care about home automation, or learning YAML and whatever other languages, in order to get an alarm to function like our old one.

 

At the end of the day all I want is reliable push notifications when the alarm goes off, and being able to remotely arm/disarm, whilst utilising the existing keypad etc.

 

Doing a bit of research yesterday, I found SmartThings doesn't natively support exit/entry delays so you have to use a third party script/app (SMH Delay) to achieve that. I couldn't see how you could easily do entry/exit delay beeps with any of the automation solutions, e.g. you arm the alarm the a piezo buzzer beeps every second for 30 seconds till the alarm arms, conversely when a sensor trips the piezo buzzer beeps every second for 20 seconds till the alarm goes off.

 

I also found that there's about a 2-3 delay if you used SmartThings, because the konnected board has to use TLS1.2 for API calls to SmartThings cloud, its processing power is not that great, hence the delay.. you can configure a reverse proxy using HA Proxy or Nginx to allow konnected to do the API calls locally and HA Proxy/Nginx forwards that to the cloud.

 

So I think the interface is for me.

 

 

 

 

My guide will be close to zero coding and fundamentally uses Node-Red which is a drag and drop automation environment because YAML is painful af.. My solution includes entry and exit delays and multiple alarm zones. It is fundamentally alarm "platform" agnostic, but the guide will use Konnected in the examples.





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premiumtouring
351 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2302749 21-Aug-2019 09:40
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gcorgnet:

 

Regarding powering the Konnected board. According to this, it is possible to power it up ising the Aux output of the exiting Alarm Panel.

 

Has anyone done that with a Bosch system? Would that take advantage of the backup battery and avoid me having to worry about backup power?

 

 

 

 

Technically possible to power Konnected by rerouting the 12V leads going to the bosch panel, but no battery backup as the battery charging and switch over circuitry are on the bosch panel.





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chevrolux
4962 posts

Uber Geek
Inactive user


  #2302754 21-Aug-2019 09:44
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premiumtouring:

 

dfnt:

 

I've been internally debating going the full konnected or going the konnected interface.

 

I don't really care about home automation, or learning YAML and whatever other languages, in order to get an alarm to function like our old one.

 

At the end of the day all I want is reliable push notifications when the alarm goes off, and being able to remotely arm/disarm, whilst utilising the existing keypad etc.

 

Doing a bit of research yesterday, I found SmartThings doesn't natively support exit/entry delays so you have to use a third party script/app (SMH Delay) to achieve that. I couldn't see how you could easily do entry/exit delay beeps with any of the automation solutions, e.g. you arm the alarm the a piezo buzzer beeps every second for 30 seconds till the alarm arms, conversely when a sensor trips the piezo buzzer beeps every second for 20 seconds till the alarm goes off.

 

I also found that there's about a 2-3 delay if you used SmartThings, because the konnected board has to use TLS1.2 for API calls to SmartThings cloud, its processing power is not that great, hence the delay.. you can configure a reverse proxy using HA Proxy or Nginx to allow konnected to do the API calls locally and HA Proxy/Nginx forwards that to the cloud.

 

So I think the interface is for me.

 

 

 

 

My guide will be close to zero coding and fundamentally uses Node-Red which is a drag and drop automation environment because YAML is painful af.. My solution includes entry and exit delays and multiple alarm zones. It is fundamentally alarm "platform" agnostic, but the guide will use Konnected in the examples.

 

 

Just to echo that.... IMO openHAB and HA both suck to work on. openHAB less so with the 'new' Paper UI, but HA just does my head in.

 

User either openHAB or HA purely for 'dashboards', but everything else clever, do it with Node-RED. You then actually spend time working on automation's rather than chasing stupid bugs.


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