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1069 posts

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  # 2321776 21-Sep-2019 06:26
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I'd put the R2.8 in the walls as that can't be supplemented. More ceiling insulation can be added to later if you're concerned about the cost. R6 should pay for itself over R3.6 if you're centrally heating the place but that may take a long while.

 

 

Standard ducting insulation isn't great and creates inefficiencies. Higher R values are available if you ask for it.

 

 

Good insulation lasts a lifetime but a heat pump may only last 15 years so the yearly cost for a ducted system's presence is high before it's done any heating. Good installers are really important for ducted systems as it's complicated to balance airflows.

 

 

Oversizing heat pumps can cause problems. When cooling it may boost the relatively humidity in a room instead of reducing it. The unit may end up turning off and on instead of being able to run continuously as the minimum capacity the inverter can run down to is too high. A bigger unit's minimum acoustic ratings may be higher than a smaller unit.

 

 

I wouldn't install a heat pump until after the house has been built and you find out how much heating and cooling it could do with. Thermally broken aluminium, good double glazing and above code insulation means it'd be far warmer than the typical minimum spec new home.

 

 

Some new builds only include exterior facing walls with insulation and maybe the wall between the bathroom and bedroom and usually exclude the garage.

 

It's appalling leaving the internal garage wall uninsulated is still occurring. The heat exits out of the garage door and freezes the whole house.

 

 

Wherever the heat pump's outdoors unit is I'd put laminate glass and acoustic gib adjacent to reduce noise ingress. It shouldn't go where it'll disturb neighbours.

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  # 2321782 21-Sep-2019 06:59
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I'd want to design a heat pump into the house, rather than put high wall units in later. Everything is easier before the house is fully finished. High wall units are loud and ugly. IMHO ducted / whole house heating is about comfort, livability, and to a lesser extent, style.

 

New Zealand houses have on average always been poor compared with houses overseas, especially in the areas of insulation and heating.


 
 
 
 




2862 posts

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  # 2323275 23-Sep-2019 11:34
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Thanks guys,

 

Our current plan has all external walls insulated (including garage walls and ceiling), and also the internal wall between the garage and the rest of the house.

 

Why insulate other internal walls other than for sound proofing?


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  # 2324180 24-Sep-2019 19:48
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The internal walls around the hot water cylinder cupboard should be insulation.

 

 

There is no way I'd skimp on insulating the internal walls. Sound cuts through the house like a hot knife thought butter without it. You don't need pricier R2.8 in the internal walls, cheaper R2.2 should be nearly as good. I'd want to insulate the walls myself or keep an eye on it so there is no cross contamination of R2.2 into the exterior walls....

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  # 2324201 24-Sep-2019 21:11
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Paul1977:

 

Thanks guys,

 

Our current plan has all external walls insulated (including garage walls and ceiling), and also the internal wall between the garage and the rest of the house.

 

Why insulate other internal walls other than for sound proofing?

 

 

 

 

Trust us, you will thank us when you insulate internals walls.. even if its just for sound. 

 

You will be amazed how much difference that makes to overall temperature comfort thus less energy going to be used for heat/cool.

 

May I reccomend earthwool to you! 

 

 




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  # 2325352 26-Sep-2019 14:41
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Might look at doing this ourselves before the Gib goes up then.


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  # 2326223 27-Sep-2019 23:31
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Insulate the water pipes too. Pipe insulation is inexpensive.

 
 
 
 


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  # 2326243 28-Sep-2019 07:50
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Paul1977:

 

Might look at doing this ourselves before the Gib goes up then.

 

 

good plan... be quick though....after batts installed, usually within 2 days is the gib.

 

 




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  # 2327118 30-Sep-2019 14:23
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bfginger: Insulate the water pipes too. Pipe insulation is inexpensive.

 

Do you bother with the cold, or just the hot?


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  # 2327337 30-Sep-2019 21:44
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People have had pipes freeze and burst in their ceiling cavity as far north as Auckland so in somewhere like rural Canterbury where it routinely drops below zero I would insulate cold pipes in the cavity. Greater ceiling insulation means the cavity will be colder in winter as less heat will leak into it.

 

Insulation should be placed behind cold pipes in the exterior walls so there is no air route from the cold to the pipe. Batts with a half cut and slid behind would work better than cut in half.

 

I think the idea is to maintain entry of some warmth from the house's interior and outside ground into the cold pipes while protecting from the colder outside air.

 

 

https://www.stuff.co.nz/timaru-herald/news/70511077/

 

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=11479835

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