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3219 posts

Uber Geek


  #2428667 28-Feb-2020 10:53
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If you left the WIR and ensuite where they are you could put an obscured window in the WIR for natural light. You don't have any plumbing in the wall between ensuite and bed 2 so may not be as bad as you think if you put noiseline gib and insulation in that wall (but I'm no expert).

 

I think I'd switch the shower and vanity positions in the ensuite so the plumbing for the shower isn't in the wall right by your head.

 

As a potential money saving option, do you need the cavity slider into the WIR? I bet you'll never close it.

 

Is it in the budget to get a bed-frame that has builtin shelves in the headboard. Since you don't have space in the master for bedside tables you might want to think about something like this:

 

 

 




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2428752 28-Feb-2020 11:41
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Thanks for that. A window would be good for wiw but that would be additional cost. Im still wondering if it's better to switch so that no noise for bed 2. Gib /insulation will be standard so not sure.

Good thinking with the shower, although I'm guessing there will be plumbing/noise from the vanity?

I was wondering same thing about cavity slider in wiw, but think it needs something to look tidy etc.

That is a good idea, but unfortunately no budget for that.
We have been looking at floating shelves, some lamps which have a shelf and USB power, and poss shelf that attach to side of bed

 
 
 
 


3219 posts

Uber Geek


  #2428896 28-Feb-2020 15:02
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33coupe: Thanks for that. A window would be good for wiw but that would be additional cost. Im still wondering if it's better to switch so that no noise for bed 2. Gib /insulation will be standard so not sure.

Good thinking with the shower, although I'm guessing there will be plumbing/noise from the vanity?

I was wondering same thing about cavity slider in wiw, but think it needs something to look tidy etc.

That is a good idea, but unfortunately no budget for that.
We have been looking at floating shelves, some lamps which have a shelf and USB power, and poss shelf that attach to side of bed

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but <180m2 is quite small for a 4 bedroom 2 living room house. If I understand correctly it's you, your wife and one child (with a second planned). For the odd time you have guests stay over couldn't the children share a room? Do you really need a guest bedroom? I worry that 180m2 will give you a cramped 4 bedroom, where it could give you a much more comfortable 3 bedroom.

 

Can I ask, were you initially presented a few different plans? Or have you just been presented one and have been making changes to make it work better for you? We had GJ Gardener do some concepts for us and they said they would present 3 different plans - but all 3 were really just variations of the same plan. I'm not saying it's the case for you, but for us we needed to go in an entirely different direction altogether.

 

You're doing the right thing by tweaking it until it's right; but if you're having to change a large number of different things in the plan, are you sure the basic concept is the right one for you?

 

EDIT: We had 10 different concept plans (really only 8 because the 3 GJG ones were so similar) from 5 different companies. Then once we settled on the concept plan we really liked we tweaked from there.


1056 posts

Uber Geek


  #2428909 28-Feb-2020 15:29
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Paul1977:

 

33coupe: Thanks for that. A window would be good for wiw but that would be additional cost. Im still wondering if it's better to switch so that no noise for bed 2. Gib /insulation will be standard so not sure.

Good thinking with the shower, although I'm guessing there will be plumbing/noise from the vanity?

I was wondering same thing about cavity slider in wiw, but think it needs something to look tidy etc.

That is a good idea, but unfortunately no budget for that.
We have been looking at floating shelves, some lamps which have a shelf and USB power, and poss shelf that attach to side of bed

 

Don't take this the wrong way, but <180m2 is quite small for a 4 bedroom 2 living room house. If I understand correctly it's you, your wife and one child (with a second planned). For the odd time you have guests stay over couldn't the children share a room? Do you really need a guest bedroom? I worry that 180m2 will give you a cramped 4 bedroom, where it could give you a much more comfortable 3 bedroom.

 

Can I ask, were you initially presented a few different plans? Or have you just been presented one and have been making changes to make it work better for you? We had GJ Gardener do some concepts for us and they said they would present 3 different plans - but all 3 were really just variations of the same plan. I'm not saying it's the case for you, but for us we needed to go in an entirely different direction altogether.

 

You're doing the right thing by tweaking it until it's right; but if you're having to change a large number of different things in the plan, are you sure the basic concept is the right one for you?

 

EDIT: We had 10 different concept plans (really only 8 because the 3 GJG ones were so similar) from 5 different companies. Then once we settled on the concept plan we really liked we tweaked from there.

 

 

 

 

I agree, and raised this point a few pages back - certainly not trying to criticize @33coupe for wanting what he wants, but a 4 bedroom house with barely usable spaces makes no sense if you can sacrifice 1 of the rooms to give all the other areas more usability.

 

 

 

My place is 249m2 including garage, and one of the measures of success for me was that the house had to function as a whole, but also as individual areas.  If you can achieve that, with the caveat that you'd probably make the spaces bigger if land/money were limitless, then I think you've succeeded. 

 

 




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2436815 12-Mar-2020 13:49
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Thanks for the replies, sorry haven't replied sooner. I have been waiting for version 2 of the plan to come out, still waiting though.

 


I am definitely hearing and thinking about all points made. Criticise away, thoughts, opinions are what I'm after as a lot of people here have been through it and very knowledgeable. (ive just thought of another reason to have separate toilet. would be good not to dump where you clean your teeth)

 

I'm pretty sure the space will work now after a few adjustments, thanks.

 

In the meantime I have been given our kitchen design (which I originally planned, friend designed & so did Paul1977, even though the builder wasnt sure). 

 

Other than a black granite worktop (engineered stone sample wasn't very nice unfortunately), not too sure on colour scheme.

 

The kitchen consultant offered an idea of white cabinets for island & lower back wall (oven, dishwasher etc), and possibly a different colour for other wall cabinets (by fridge), and the hanging cabinets (above oven)
We looked at silver strata for this colour. 

 

Does anyone think this two tone colour combo would work/look good, or just play it safe with one colour? (will be going with light / natural coloured floor planking, poss pine or oak etc) 
 
thanks again

 

Click to see full size

 

 

 

Click to see full size


3219 posts

Uber Geek


  #2437039 12-Mar-2020 16:56
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I don't understand why kitchen designers don't use software that renders the plans in the colors you want. I'd play with the kitchen elevations in an image editor to try the colours you think (or even print it out and use coloured pencils).

 

We're doing a light timber-look vinyl plank flooring, black lower cabinetry, white speckled bench top, and timber-look upper cabinetry (matching the floor).

 

Does the builder provide a consultation with interior designers/colour consultants?

 

EDIT: What stud height are you doing? I had thought you'd previously said standard 2.4 stud, but the kitchen plan say cabinetry to 2400mm with bulkhead above - which implies a higher stud? Or is it meant to be cabinetry to 2200mm with bulkhead above?




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2437043 12-Mar-2020 17:06
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Thanks for that.
Yours sounds a bit similar but reversed colour combo, sounds really nice.
Yeah we will be meeting with a colour consultant at some point, hopefully they can help and give some examples in colour

I just want to get a good idea (s) before agreeing to something in case they want to know asap (I take ages to make a decision, explore every other avenue first)

Stud height has been upgraded to 2700mm :o). So cabinets to 2400 with 300 gap

 
 
 
 




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2437209 12-Mar-2020 21:47
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Ooh I've just remembered. My main question about kitchen, probably most important.... Is wanting led strips above and below top cupboards?


I Would want different colours and WiFi so can be changed by phone.
Guessing AliExpress would have it. Any recommendations?

I've seen some, would I need to run one long piece (eg through cabinet) or can use separate strips but controlled at same time/app?

Thanks



758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2437210 12-Mar-2020 21:47
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Ooh I've just remembered. My main question about kitchen, probably most important.... Is wanting led strips above and below top cupboards?


I Would want different colours and WiFi so can be changed by phone.
Guessing AliExpress would have it. Any recommendations?

I've seen some, would I need to run one long piece (eg through cabinet) or can use separate strips but controlled at same time/app?

Thanks

4195 posts

Uber Geek

Trusted

  #2437217 12-Mar-2020 22:06
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If budget allows, extend your cabinet heights all the way to the ceiling so no bulkheads.it looks so much better and you get more space.





Do whatever you want to do man.

  

3219 posts

Uber Geek


  #2437225 12-Mar-2020 23:06
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billgates:

If budget allows, extend your cabinet heights all the way to the ceiling so no bulkheads.it looks so much better and you get more space.



With a 2.4 stud I’d agree, but I’m not so sure with a 2.7 stud.

How much extra is the 2.7 stud costing? Is it a bit of an extravagance if you are on a tight budget?

16347 posts

Uber Geek


  #2437226 12-Mar-2020 23:32
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billgates:

 

If budget allows, extend your cabinet heights all the way to the ceiling so no bulkheads.it looks so much better and you get more space.

 

 

 

 

If you are doing this, make sure that if you have any lights or vent grills are installed before they install the kitchen , otherwise hinged high cabinet doors that swing across the ceiling, will hit the fitting. Make sure all your tradespeople are working together. We had this problem, as the electrician hadn't installed thee fittings before they installed the kitchen cabinets.




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2438543 15-Mar-2020 12:39
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Paul1977:
billgates:

If budget allows, extend your cabinet heights all the way to the ceiling so no bulkheads.it looks so much better and you get more space.



With a 2.4 stud I’d agree, but I’m not so sure with a 2.7 stud.

How much extra is the 2.7 stud costing? Is it a bit of an extravagance if you are on a tight budget?


I think it's 3-4k extra for the stud height. Am on a budget but think something like that is worth it.

We've just had our build plan come back and it's pretty much in budget. Only $2k over lol.
The builder has set aside 1k for any extra costs like wiring ($60 per light install) so far have one light to put in (IKEA death star). Want 3 sensor lights in hallway, maybe 2 for separate lounge.
Also want wall sockets with USB, run HDMI cables, cat6, power for video doorbell, security cameras, power for Deck. Cable and power for projector

Will 1k cover it? He can include more in contact price, and credit anything that isn't used. But if I don't include it and turns out to cost more than agreed contract, mortgage won't cover it, and will have to pay for it ourselves

3219 posts

Uber Geek


  #2438648 15-Mar-2020 16:18
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33coupe:

 

We've just had our build plan come back and it's pretty much in budget. Only $2k over lol.
The builder has set aside 1k for any extra costs like wiring ($60 per light install) so far have one light to put in (IKEA death star). Want 3 sensor lights in hallway, maybe 2 for separate lounge.
Also want wall sockets with USB, run HDMI cables, cat6, power for video doorbell, security cameras, power for Deck. Cable and power for projector

Will 1k cover it? He can include more in contact price, and credit anything that isn't used. But if I don't include it and turns out to cost more than agreed contract, mortgage won't cover it, and will have to pay for it ourselves

 

Electrical adds up really quickly, and you don't get much for $1K.

 

For anything you know you want, get it priced into the contract now - and still leave an allowance for extra after that! When you do the walk through with the sparky you will almost certainly add more (we had our walk through yesterday, and are eagerly awaiting the dreaded variation pricing).

 

For running HDMI, try to do it is such a way that the cable can be replaced as new standards come out. This means being able to pull the cable through INCLUDING the the HDMI plug.

 

My brother had HDMI run in his house about 10 years ago, but because of the length of the run the cable is no good for 4K HDR.




758 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2438804 15-Mar-2020 20:38
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Yeah I was thinking that we well, thanks.
Might ask to run conduit for that reason.

I still will buy my own HDMI cables from Ali express (hopefully they get here in time) as are cheaper.

I'm also looking at wall plates. So many cables (2 HDMI out, 1 sub, although maybe run another one for 2nd sub one day, 2 fronts, 2 rears, 2 in ceiling, 2 for deck)

Do people buy wall plates which are banana plug terminated or just one of those brushed ones where put as many cables as possible through?

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