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60 posts

Master Geek


  #2485039 16-May-2020 19:50
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Moving the bed to the top wall would solve all of those problems. I'd do it just to have the bed further from the toilet lol. 




743 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2485047 16-May-2020 20:20
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@billgates thanks for that. Hopefully we can get wall plugs as well, that would be good.

@froglition that is something I am considering as well, just in case current doesn't work out ideal. Will plan for bed being in both positions.

 
 
 
 


60 posts

Master Geek


  #2485057 16-May-2020 21:39
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Better access to ensuite from hall way if you did.




743 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2488676 21-May-2020 12:47
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Froglotion:

 

Better access to ensuite from hall way if you did.

 

 

 

 

Yeah that is true. Wasnt keen on the idea of the bed facing the hallway, plus looking out at the garden would be nicer, but will make provision for both positions.

 

 

 

Sorry I didnt reply to your comment about heating in the bedrooms. I was originally thinking of having another heatpump mounted in the hallway above the garage door entrance.

 

Someone did point out that it might not heat the rooms, so now im thinking of having one ducted into the rooms (might have to be further down the track as approx 10k which I dont have budget for). Will see if there's anything which can be done during the building process, to reduce any future costs etc.

 

Any info or ideas around that would be appreciated. cheers


3147 posts

Uber Geek


  #2488993 21-May-2020 23:02
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33coupe:

Froglotion:


Better access to ensuite from hall way if you did.



 


Yeah that is true. Wasnt keen on the idea of the bed facing the hallway, plus looking out at the garden would be nicer, but will make provision for both positions.


 


Sorry I didnt reply to your comment about heating in the bedrooms. I was originally thinking of having another heatpump mounted in the hallway above the garage door entrance.


Someone did point out that it might not heat the rooms, so now im thinking of having one ducted into the rooms (might have to be further down the track as approx 10k which I dont have budget for). Will see if there's anything which can be done during the building process, to reduce any future costs etc.


Any info or ideas around that would be appreciated. cheers



Easy enough to get a couple of attic trusses to accomodate for a ducted heat pump in future. But the problem will be getting it into the roof space and manoeuvred to where the attic trusses are located.

It depends on your roof design, some have enough space even without attic trusses, and with a large enough manhole it’s not an issue. Some would be impossible to fit afterwards without ripping out a whole heap of gib.

They also need to be able to run all the ducting to where it needs to go. Again, this is much easier before insulation and gib fixing.

If you seriously think you’ll want to put it in later, it makes far better financial sense to just do it from the start.



743 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2489447 22-May-2020 13:28
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Hmm yeah good point. So I'm thinking either get ducted heating for the bedrooms now, and leave heatpump in lounge/kitchen for bit later when have available funds.
Or just go with heatpump in hallway when have the funds (pre wire etc now tho)

Will carry on reading/researching tho.

9637 posts

Uber Geek

Lifetime subscriber

  #2489683 22-May-2020 16:29
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if your getting ducted heating for the bedrooms for the small extra cost you may as well go whole house. just put manual dampers on the rooms you wont be using all year round.


 
 
 
 


1057 posts

Uber Geek


  #2489692 22-May-2020 16:46
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We had a 150 sqm house retrofitted with a floor vent ducted Fujitsu heat pump for around $10,000. Didn't bother with zones or smarts. If we don't want to heat a room for some reason we could close a vent (not that we have bothered) best part is no breezy heatpump, no noise and it warms the house up so quick. Doesn't have the warm glow of a fire place but wouldn't go any other option again






743 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2489750 22-May-2020 17:40
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Hmm yeah good points. I was discouraged from having it due to cost, I'm sure he said $15-20k.
But that doesn't sound right going on what people have said.

I'm going to revisit this and ask the builder (hopefully not too late)

It's a shame cassette heat pumps are bit ugly as possibly could have solved it.

1057 posts

Uber Geek


  #2489752 22-May-2020 17:49
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33coupe: Hmm yeah good points. I was discouraged from having it due to cost, I'm sure he said $15-20k.
But that doesn't sound right going on what people have said.

I'm going to revisit this and ask the builder (hopefully not too late)

It's a shame cassette heat pumps are bit ugly as possibly could have solved it.


I would ask around and get some second quotes.







743 posts

Ultimate Geek


  #2489818 22-May-2020 20:58
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blackjack17:
33coupe: Hmm yeah good points. I was discouraged from having it due to cost, I'm sure he said $15-20k.
But that doesn't sound right going on what people have said.

I'm going to revisit this and ask the builder (hopefully not too late)

It's a shame cassette heat pumps are bit ugly as possibly could have solved it.


I would ask around and get some second quotes.



Funnily enough I did just that before I saw your post. Will wait to hear back from them, then take my findings to the builder

3147 posts

Uber Geek


  #2490210 23-May-2020 21:33
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It depends how fancy you want to go.

The Fujitsu quoted by building company was about $12,000 with no zoning.

We wanted mitsubishi, plus fresh air with heat exchanger, and went for the best zoning options we could (each room is its own zone with temperature sensor in each zone) We also have a seperate high wall heat pump for a home hair salon my partner will be working from - we decided to keep this completely seperate from the ducted system.

All that with upgraded ducting and grills I think we’re looking at close to 30K all up.

Most people don’t go to the extremes we have, but $15-20K doesn’t sound too far off for a standard zoned system from a good brand like Mitsubishi or Daiken


EDIT: Bear in mind every little upgrade adds. If you want more aesthetically pleasing grills, more money. If you want higher R rated ducting, more money. More zones, more money. Fresh air with heater exchanger, more money.

If you dropped your stud height, you’d save several thousand, plus the home would be cheaper to heat. Those savings could pay for the upgrade to ducted and make it cheaper to run.

4574 posts

Uber Geek

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  #2490328 24-May-2020 06:04
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If/when I come to build a house, One of the things I would be incredibly unkeen to compromise on is dropping to say a 2.4m stud height, indeed I think I’d elect to sell one of the kids (and build a smaller house) before doing this.

 

The typical 2.4m stud height is one of the things I dislike about most modern homes - there’s something about a low stud and the typically open plan design that doesn’t work for me. (But, yeah, the 3m my house is built to is probably unnecessary in modern times!)


18 posts

Geek


  #2490340 24-May-2020 07:22
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I would suggest 2.7m stud height in all living areas. Drop it down to 2.4m for all the bedrooms: feels cozier😄.

18 posts

Geek


  #2490343 24-May-2020 07:30
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Paul1977: It depends how fancy you want to go.

The Fujitsu quoted by building company was about $12,000 with no zoning.

We wanted mitsubishi, plus fresh air with heat exchanger, and went for the best zoning options we could (each room is its own zone with temperature sensor in each zone) We also have a seperate high wall heat pump for a home hair salon my partner will be working from - we decided to keep this completely seperate from the ducted system.

All that with upgraded ducting and grills I think we’re looking at close to 30K all up.

Most people don’t go to the extremes we have, but $15-20K doesn’t sound too far off for a standard zoned system from a good brand like Mitsubishi or Daiken


EDIT: Bear in mind every little upgrade adds. If you want more aesthetically pleasing grills, more money. If you want higher R rated ducting, more money. More zones, more money. Fresh air with heater exchanger, more money.

If you dropped your stud height, you’d save several thousand, plus the home would be cheaper to heat. Those savings could pay for the upgrade to ducted and make it cheaper to run.


Or you could simply put in as many single heatpumps....no zones. The advantage being a much higher COP (for heating) and SEER rating ( for cooling) and add TUYA remote control units ( think of them as IOT control remotes in your hand) . They cost about a tenner each .... When programmed.... They can act like one whole unit or separates. Much cheaper and more efficient. These units can be bought for about 1000 each, install is about 750. COP and SEER around 4-5 for each of the units.

Have yet to see a multi zone unit with a high COP or SEER rating.

The added advantage is that if one breaks ... The rest are still functioning 👍

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